sharkey964 Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 OK. Bear with me here peeps. A few weeks ago,I came to move my 300tdi 90,& no brakes.Fluid reservoir was empty. There was no signs of a major leak,but a slight leak on one of the front calipers,so, assumed that was the problem. So,changed the front calipers for a bit of an upgrade to 110 vented,together with new disks & pads. Whilst trying to bleed them up,I couldn't get any pressure at the bleed nipple,just a dribble of fluid when the pedal was pressed.BUT,when the brake pedal was released,fluid squirted out of the reservoir.I guessed the seals in the master cylinder were fubar, so replaced the master cylinder as well. The problem still persists.Can't get any pressure at the bleed nipple,just a dribble,& although i can get the pedal to have a bit of resistance,the front brakes don't work at all,i.e.with the pedal pressed,I can still turn the hub by hand. I'm going to try reverse bleeding tomorrow. Is there anything else I can do. Oh,& it is still squirting fluid out of the reservoir when I release the brake pedal.I'm sure this isn't normal. I've never noticed it do that when I've bled the brakes previously. Thanks in advance for any help on this. Marc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 If you have a pressure valve on the bulkhead below the master cylinder check that isn't leaking. Mine was, very discreetly, into the wheelarch. Similar symptoms to yours. New valve fixed it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigi_H Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 dito! PDWA Valve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 Also known as Brake Balance Valve Just fitted a new one to mine and I can honestly say it's a pita to do! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharkey964 Posted March 5, 2020 Author Share Posted March 5, 2020 Brilliant.....3 reply's all sugesting the same thing.😊 This was the conclusion I had also come to,although its not leaking. I tried reverse bleeding this aft,can't get any fluid to pump up into the master cylider at all.I disconected the feed pipe on the back of one of the calipers to make sure there wasn't a blockage there,& pumped fluid from my big syringe,no problem full flow. I've ordered the balance valve.....So, we'll see when I fit it if it cures the fault. Thanks all. Marc.  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigi_H Posted March 6, 2020 Share Posted March 6, 2020 The "valve" is only a switch with a piston, that separates the two brake circles and goes to "on", when moved. Maybe this piston is seized. It is a separate problem, when you don't see the warning light in the dash. Is the bulb gone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharkey964 Posted March 6, 2020 Author Share Posted March 6, 2020 I took the brake balance valve off today....Not the easiest of jobs.😠Once on the bench,got the big nut undone off the end & blew it out with the compressor.There certainly was a bit of carp in there. I've ordered a new one,due next week.But,thought I'd refit the old one to see if there was any improvment, having cleaned it out.......That didn't go to plan,after 2 hours struggling to get the pipes back on,I'd managed 1 out of the 4,toy's wer well & truely thrown out of the pram. Thought feck it,if it's going to be one of those sort of jobs,I'm only going to do it once,so <i'll do it with the new part next week. Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 6, 2020 Share Posted March 6, 2020 (edited)  Later vehicles changed to the low fluid level float cap on the master cyylinder, it's easy to wire in to the existing wiring, the info is on the defender forum, I have both on my 1989 110CSW. Edited March 7, 2020 by western Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharkey964 Posted March 6, 2020 Author Share Posted March 6, 2020 24 minutes ago, western said: You could replace the PDWA with a 4 connection, & do away with the split circuit, Later vehicles changed to the low fliud level float cap on the master cyylinder, it's easy to wire in to the existing wiring, the info is on the defender forum, I have both on my 1989 110CSW. Tell me more young fellow??? I assume there would have to be quite a lot of jointing of the pipe work? or is there some kind of kit I can buy? Cheers Marc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted March 6, 2020 Share Posted March 6, 2020 You still want a split circuit!!! Later ones are split circuit!!! You would just put in two unions to connect the pipes and add a level switch cap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharkey964 Posted March 6, 2020 Author Share Posted March 6, 2020 The master cylinder already has a low fluid warning indicator,so why do I need the PDWA? Marc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted March 6, 2020 Share Posted March 6, 2020 Hang on. You said it is a 300TDI. 300TDIs do not have a PDWA..... You are probably referring to the bias valve. You need that and it needs to work. Hopefully you ordered the right part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted March 6, 2020 Share Posted March 6, 2020 This is a bias valve, ANR1415 Â This is a PDWA Â Â Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted March 6, 2020 Share Posted March 6, 2020 On 3/6/2020 at 5:47 PM, sharkey964 said: ......That didn't go to plan,after 2 hours struggling to get the pipes back on,I'd managed 1 out of the 4,toy's wer well & truely thrown out of the pram. I did warn you 🤣🤣 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted March 6, 2020 Share Posted March 6, 2020 Yep ANR1415 For the 300Tdi 90... and NOT needed on the 110's??? Lucky gits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharkey964 Posted March 6, 2020 Author Share Posted March 6, 2020 Ahhhh.....My bad.....I have a bias valve then,not a PDWA. I hope I ordered the correct part.😦My local Landy parts supplier is usualy prety good & knows my vehicles.I said it was for my 300tdi D90.So, fingers crossed. Cheers all. Marc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giles Posted March 7, 2020 Share Posted March 7, 2020 13 hours ago, sharkey964 said: My local Landy parts Hi Marc, A tad OT but who do you order from? landypoint? Merci bien ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharkey964 Posted March 7, 2020 Author Share Posted March 7, 2020 Yup. They are only 40mins from me,the 2 lads there are very knowledgable,& they only supply decent quality parts...No Britpart! Much better since the new owner took over a few years ago. Marc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Remington Rolling Block Posted March 8, 2020 Share Posted March 8, 2020 Hi Marc, Thanks for the link matey, yep I joint this forum,,,  Ok little trick I use when refitting S O Bs is to put the unions in finger tight BEFORE I bolt to the bulkhead, helps a lot if you can wiggle the part and the pipes, then lock up once bolted firm. Tom G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharkey964 Posted March 8, 2020 Author Share Posted March 8, 2020 10 hours ago, Remington Rolling Block said: Hi Marc, Thanks for the link matey, yep I joint this forum,,,  Ok little trick I use when refitting S O Bs is to put the unions in finger tight BEFORE I bolt to the bulkhead, helps a lot if you can wiggle the part and the pipes, then lock up once bolted firm. Tom G Thanks for that tip Tom,I'll give it a try. Marc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted March 8, 2020 Share Posted March 8, 2020 If you have an old 10mm spanner, cut a slot in it in the closed end part, so it passed through the brake pipe, then you can keep in contact with the union and lift the spanner and move it round a fraction at a time and you won't keep dropping it! When union is tightened enough lift the spanner and remove as the brake pipe passes through the gap you cut. Plus bend the spanner shaft to suit as your wrist and arm won't!?! Me I found working from underneath best, oh and take your time last thing you need is to cross thread things....Plus remortgage the house ready for the swear box!!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Remington Rolling Block Posted March 8, 2020 Share Posted March 8, 2020 Marc, I just got a reply from Mike At Britannica Restos..... It seems the bias valves are famous for sticking and drawing air, ill keep you posted as ive asked Mike if I need one or if they are serviceable Tom 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Remington Rolling Block Posted March 12, 2020 Share Posted March 12, 2020 Hi Marc. Hows the brakes going. Changed the bias valve on mine today, was an S O B to get the old one out, best way I found was to remove the air filter, move the expansion tank and pull the res'er off the master cylinder and undo the two pipes that go to the valve,, Then crack the threads on the lower pipes from under the car, the rest you can each from on top,, now fitting the new one was easy, fit the m/c pipes first finger tight, now lower the valve into position and locate on its mounting stud now fit the upper pipes again finger tight, now bolt up the locating stud/nut now you can tighten the pipe unions,,,,,,,,,,,  two and a half hours to get the old one off 45 mins to fit the new one... didn't get time to bleed so cant say if it fixed my prob,,,, ill post more tomorrow. Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharkey964 Posted March 14, 2020 Author Share Posted March 14, 2020 So,I fitted the new BBV today. No real dramas,a bit fiddly but,I've done plenty of worse jobs. The problem I now have is bleeding the brakes up. I bled the front brakes with a Gunson pressure bleed kit until no air bubbles,tried the pedal & it was quite low & not very firm.Absolutely no brake operation at the caliper. So,bled again & again & again,4 times in total. Pedal now feels a little better & I have brakes at the front.But none at the back. On a side note,& forgive me if I'm missing something obvious....Or,just being thick. When I was testing to see if the rear brakes were working.The front wheels are off,car on axel stands.I jacked one rear wheel to spin it.It wont spin,like a locker is engaged?Car is in neuteral &high low lever in neuteral also.Surely with one wheel off the ground it should spin freely??? Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted March 14, 2020 Share Posted March 14, 2020 Perhaps the handbrake is on? Maybe stuck on even? Or a stuck piston in that caliper? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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