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Central locking Series Door


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Hi all,

I currently have a Defender 90 2013. It has central locking. I am changing the doors out for the series conversion doors with the sliding windows. The reason is aesthetics. I can live without central locking but it would be much better if there was a way to add this feature to these old conversion doors. Can this be done?

Here are the new doors: https://www.sp-4x4.com/SERIES_DOOR_CONVERSION_FOR_DEFENDER_p/jwp7105.htm

Here is the desired finished look:

Coolnvntage+Land+Rover+D90+Heritage+(83+

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1 hour ago, Anderzander said:

I’ve wondered this - the rear door lock on my defender has central locking, it looks like they could all be transferred to a drivers door, and I’d wondered if I could replicate onto a passenger lock. 

I was thinking the same thing. I like the above solution but it may be a bit exposed for my application. I have an engineer friend trying to come up with an internal solution.

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Hi mate,

I did this earlier on in the year on my 90. see image below. very easy to do. I did all three doors and after getting the hang of how the inside of the lock mechanism worked, i drilled a hole through the locking tab and attached an actuator pole through it, drilling a hole out the bottom of the lock. When i finally do the door cards, it will look exactly as you have posted above.

central-locking.jpg

I'd be happy to provide you with detailed info, but I'm sure you would be able to crack on just fine.

Jake 

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3 hours ago, Geojake said:

Hi mate,

I did this earlier on in the year on my 90. see image below. very easy to do. I did all three doors and after getting the hang of how the inside of the lock mechanism worked, i drilled a hole through the locking tab and attached an actuator pole through it, drilling a hole out the bottom of the lock. When i finally do the door cards, it will look exactly as you have posted above.

central-locking.jpg

I'd be happy to provide you with detailed info, but I'm sure you would be able to crack on just fine.

Jake 

This is exactly what I was after. Excellent, glad to know it is doable. I shall give it a go. Thanks for that!

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1 hour ago, Anderzander said:

@Geojake That’s outstanding !

Can I ask which actuators they are please? and what did you use for a fob?

I bought this kit off eBay, as I wanted to have a modern flip key with the fob and key together. It works a treat and the entire unit is housed in the fuse box so all hidden. I then got the blank keys cut at my local locksmiths.

Edited by Geojake
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  • 2 years later...

Hi folks, absolute novice here who’s never wired before. Looking to install central locking but worried I’ll get lost on the connections. Would this be a silly task to take up? The wiring through the Landy would be ok but really not sure how to connect eg to live earth etc. 

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On 8/10/2020 at 1:32 PM, Geojake said:

And for a video of how it works (before I tidied up the wires). The actuator has plenty enough power to drive the locking mechanism. 

IMG_2946.MOV

Hi there, this looks great! I don't suppose you have any photos of how this connected up inside the body of the lock? Thanks!

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31 minutes ago, Hazza said:

Hi there, this looks great! I don't suppose you have any photos of how this connected up inside the body of the lock? Thanks!

I found these from the time. Drilled a small hole in the lock pin and then attached a pole with a buttoned end on. 

image.jpg

image.jpg

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  • 9 months later...

I hadn’t seen this thread before, just been directed by @Hazza after asking about scrap rear locks to experiment on to same thing.  I didn’t know about Right Click and their flip keys with transmitter - I had been looking closely at Hawk, which use a separate fob, so this is better.

The data on the link you posted is a bit unclear.  It seems to suggest that the unit will trigger the horn of the locks are forced, so is a basic alarm.  Is that right?

Do you think it’d be possible to route the actuator rod or a Bowden cable (like used on the heater flap controls) closer to the the lock bolting flange so as to hide it inside the door card, with the hard board removed for clearance behind the vinyl?  It’d be nice to make the system invisible.  Could it be done so the rod passes between the opening handle and back plate instead of between the handle and front plate/mechanism?

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Now that I've done the job, I think you'd struggle to make it much more compact or concealed than is shown above.

 

My own setup shown below 

PXL_20240303_112043244_MP.thumb.jpg.0a3f708e070d1059b3131a0513b456e5.jpg

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