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1uzfe Series 3 - Lexover


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17 minutes ago, Ed Poore said:

Sorry not back. The adapter would have to be another 6" longer to not cant either the transfer or the engine / gearbox.

Their Merc version of the adaptor cants it over... and my adaptor makes the connection about 50mm shorter than theirs - and level. So in the case of the merc box it could have been done and not canted. I think the Merc version of the adaptor was the first as well so that part of the adaptor was 'wrong' to start with.

 

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21 hours ago, Bowie69 said:

It's not really about length to be honest, but angle.

If you are running a lift, then it makes the whole thing worse.... So what's the setup?

Ah OK, of course. From memory its 2" suspension lift and the body isnt lifted 

inbound4441043285456414971.jpg

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On 12/21/2020 at 9:22 PM, Bowie69 said:

It's not really about length to be honest, but angle.

If you are running a lift, then it makes the whole thing worse.... So what's the setup?

Is there a way of working out how far you can go before prop angles and lengths all go a bit wrong? Tried and tested by others maybe? 

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2 hours ago, andyg365 said:

Is there a way of working out how far you can go before prop angles and lengths all go a bit wrong? Tried and tested by others maybe? 

Someone like Gwyn Lewis or other prop specialist will be able to give you the max UJ operating angle. Outside of that and you’ll get it binding. 

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6 hours ago, landroversforever said:

Someone like Gwyn Lewis or other prop specialist will be able to give you the max UJ operating angle. Outside of that and you’ll get it binding. 

OK thanks. It used to run a 3.9 with zf auto before the with Bailey morris props and it seemed fine the once or twice I used it then. I'm using the same props this time so will have to see! 

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 12/24/2020 at 4:47 PM, andyg365 said:

This is the adaptor plate for mating the transmission to the transfer box. 

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Nice (but longish) solution. 🙂

I would add some plating to make it a box like construction with some holes in it to bolt it up. In this state it can flex a lot. 

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On 1/16/2021 at 8:58 AM, Carloz said:

 

 

Nice (but longish) solution. 🙂

I would add some plating to make it a box like construction with some holes in it to bolt it up. In this state it can flex a lot. 

Long ish as in makes the drive train longer? It's 12mm plate with heavy wall tube. If it gets a bend in will hit it with the stiffeners. 

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On 1/16/2021 at 8:58 AM, Carloz said:

Nice (but longish) solution. 🙂

One thing to bear in mind is the A340 box is actually amazingly short compared to most autos.

DSC_0658.thumb.JPG.6396a163f9235634dba436e7a20c6b7b.JPG

Probably useless as a comparison but that headstock on the JCB is 2m wide. I'll try and get a picture of it next to a Tdi R380 for comparison.

Edit: I think it's actually narrower. The width (outer edge of tyre to tyre) is 2m.

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2 hours ago, andyg365 said:

Long ish as in makes the drive train longer? It's 12mm plate with heavy wall tube. If it gets a bend in will hit it with the stiffeners. 

Yes, but with given parts it is the way to go I guess.

The outputshaft / flange of the autobox looks like it can made shorter. 🤔 Maybe remove the mounting for the donut and weld a new one on it closer to the autobox. Drawback is you need to alter standard parts.

The plates are thick and the rods are strong.. but still... 😉

 

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@Carloz the issue with making it shorter is that the sump of the autobox then starts to foul the diff housing on the LT230. Pushing it forwards helps to clear that and means you don't need to cant either the gearbox or transfer box over (both which may introduce issues with oil starvation).

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I think you need to add walls on two sides at least.  It’s not bending that you have to worry about but twisting.  Even just some gussets would help, but two solid walls would stop any torsional movement from the torque loads in the transmission.

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On 1/17/2021 at 9:40 PM, Ed Poore said:

@Carloz the issue with making it shorter is that the sump of the autobox then starts to foul the diff housing on the LT230. Pushing it forwards helps to clear that and means you don't need to cant either the gearbox or transfer box over (both which may introduce issues with oil starvation).

I agree to stay away from that kind of issues, in that way you from one thing into another.

 

On 1/18/2021 at 5:56 AM, Snagger said:

I think you need to add walls on two sides at least.  It’s not bending that you have to worry about but twisting.  Even just some gussets would help, but two solid walls would stop any torsional movement from the torque loads in the transmission.

Adding walls on only two sides doesn't stop twisting. Boxing it is the only way to get it free of twisting.

Imagine a U-profile, that is 3 sides closed, it will not bend much but will twist to great extend. Close the 4th side and it is a total different story.

 

But of course, imperfect contructions can be made strong enough when you use enough material. 🙂

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