youngengineer Posted December 13, 2020 Share Posted December 13, 2020 (edited) I know this topic has been well covered however my variant of this issue was a little more unique. I have been having issues with the ignition no longer turning off the engine for the past week. This happened right after I did a bunch of wiring in the dash so I put it down to a short or bad contact somewhere. I have since been either stalling the engine or pulling the ignition fuse, sometimes just jiggling the ignition key would work. Now, just today whilst idling at a service station (lucky I had just come off the motorway) the engine just cuts out with the ignition still on. My first though is that the 12v feed had come off the fuel solenoid contact but a quick check proved that theory wrong. I go to cycle the ignition and I hear a mighty crack, as if a small firework had been let off in the engine bay followed by a strong plastic burning smell. Although still intact there was a large amount of smoke coming from the fuel solenoid itself so I disconnect the positive feed and attempt to remove the solenoid to remove the plunger and bypass it to at least get home. I tried for several hours with a combination of spanners, adjustable and molegrips but nothing would get it to budge and the face starts to deform and round off. My question is, what is easier, remove the pump completely? Or can I just remove the rear section of the casing where the injector pipes and solenoid are? What would cause such a catastrophic failure? Edited December 13, 2020 by youngengineer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted December 13, 2020 Share Posted December 13, 2020 If you have a timing kit most have the puller plate that doubles as a pulley clamp for the pump pulley. Just remove the timing pin cover on the front cover. From memory undo the centre nut and plate Insert puller plate and bolt the pulley to the plate (it should locate in the hole) as you do so it'll drag the pulley forward a little releasing it from the pump. Then you can unbolt the pump without disturbing the belt. Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted December 14, 2020 Share Posted December 14, 2020 Check the WSM... I am pretty sure you should not touch the centre nut Mike or you will mess up the timing on the pump. I am pretty sure there is a how to in here in the tech archive. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92a Posted December 14, 2020 Share Posted December 14, 2020 Have a look on YouTube for removing “Land Rover pump with support tool “ trailer fitter has a good video, it’s the 3 10mm bolts that you take out , you can get the kit on EBay for £20 , I’ve got a spare kit (and pump) if you’re local but I would take the whole pump off rather than trying to dismantle it on the vehicle 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted December 14, 2020 Share Posted December 14, 2020 7 hours ago, reb78 said: Check the WSM... I am pretty sure you should not touch the centre nut Mike or you will mess up the timing on the pump. I am pretty sure there is a how to in here in the tech archive. Quite right I was discribing from memory and couldn't quite remember how the pump is attached to the pulley. Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted December 15, 2020 Share Posted December 15, 2020 22 hours ago, miketomcat said: Quite right I was discribing from memory and couldn't quite remember how the pump is attached to the pulley. Mike Three 10mm flange headed bolts. I had a fuel solenoid burn out in situ several years ago, but had no warning - the engine just died and I saw some smoke from the back edge of the bonnet. With the bonnet open, it was easy to find - the smoke was emanating at the rate you see from a blown out candle. I was fortunate in it being easy to remove and replace. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
youngengineer Posted December 15, 2020 Author Share Posted December 15, 2020 (edited) Well, I had the vehicle towed back. I called the RAC at 6:20pm, it wasn't until 7am the next day that the flatbed turned up. I had slept in car all night with nothing but a t-shirt and thin jacket. by then I thought that I was going into hypothermic shock. They did finally return my call at 6am to tell me that I should buy a coffee or magazine and they would pay me back.. anyway. A few taps with a hammer and chisel was enough to break it free. Edited December 15, 2020 by youngengineer 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 15, 2020 Share Posted December 15, 2020 A cut down & slimed down jaw 24mm open end spanner works for me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
youngengineer Posted December 15, 2020 Author Share Posted December 15, 2020 (edited) Yes, I was hoping to open up a 22mm spanner which was the largest I had but the RAC bloke told me he did not have a grinder nore was he even allowed to carry one. Infact I was quite surprised at how few tools they actually carry. They seem more geared towards fixing flat batteries and tyres then anything serious. He ended up going back home to collect his own personal collection of spanners, none of which were over the size of 23 anyway. Edited December 15, 2020 by youngengineer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted December 15, 2020 Share Posted December 15, 2020 53 minutes ago, youngengineer said: Yes, I was hoping to open up a 22mm spanner which was the largest I had but the RAC bloke told me he did not have a grinder nore was he even allowed to carry one. Infact I was quite surprised at how few tools they actually carry. They seem more geared towards fixing flat batteries and tyres then anything serious. He ended up going back home to collect his own personal collection of spanners, none of which were over the size of 23 anyway. 24mm is such a common size! Can't believe they don't have one on the van At least you sorted without having to take the pump off 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted December 18, 2020 Share Posted December 18, 2020 Make sure you spend the little extra and buy a genuine Bosch one - typically, the cheap brands fail far more often. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
youngengineer Posted December 19, 2020 Author Share Posted December 19, 2020 I did indeed buy genuine. I had a fish around the hole with a small magnet and found one very small shard of metal but not much else. All is back up and running. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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