Jump to content

Loss of power, no smoke, turbo spins up


Recommended Posts

2006 110 with 300 Tdi

Have been losing power slowly over the last month, especially in throttled situations such as overtaking.  Now the power loss is spreading to all areas of acceleration including takeoff, etc.  I have been chasing fuel problems as there is a normal burst of black smoke at startup but no smoke on attempted acceleration.  Thus far, I have changed the lift pump, replaced the air hose from filter to turbo, cleaned sedimenter (nasty), checked injector pump diaphragm, checked and wastegate.  Somehow I know there is a shortage of fuel supply for the turbo to be spinning but no smoke.

Not sure if it would matter, but about 2 months ago I changed the thermostat and found no thermostat there previously.  Would running with no thermostat affect fuel delivery in anyway?!?

As far as the wastegate, when the arm was removed the valve moved meta to metal but the swing wasn't very broad.  Is this normal?

Thanks for any help, I need to get this out of limp stage as it is our daily transportation in western Kenya working with children.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Check the throttle cable is adjusted properly - FIP lever fully open when pedal fully down - check with engine off obviously. The adjuster nut can wind itself back down the cable.

Also check the air hose elbow from the outlet of the turbo isn't split - quite common.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is this an electronic 300tdi (EEGR) or an older manual type FIP? i.e with the extra EGR valve and control box and control wireson the FIP?

Could be the EGR is clogged or has lead to the intake being clogged up. Aside from that have you also changed the fuel filter? If you can rig a fuel feed from the fuel filter housing into the engine from a clean bottle or can of fuel you may discover the diesel pipework back to the tank are in need of cleaning. The later ROW 300tdi had a plastic tank and ROW pickup which is difficult to get to without dropping the tank.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From what you say, you seem to have covered air intake and fuel issues. (the wastegate arm won't do much under no load conditions, you need a load on the engine to raise boost pressure). There is also the manifold gasket to check, cheap and easy to replace. 

Moving away from air intake and fuel issues, you mentioned the thermostat, what made you look at this? Do you have to top up coolant regularly or have you had any overheating issues? 

When were the valve clearances and timing last checked? I would also be tempted to perform a compression test to see if that gives any clues to a deeper issue. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have had the truck for about 20 months.  NO temp ever registered and I was checking to see if the thermostat had stuck open or if the gauge was faulty or the sending unit.  Have never topped up coolant and never had overheating.  Since adding the thermostat temp is always at about 1/4 to 1/3 once warmed.  People here in Africa often run no thermostat in petrol engines due to the never ending heat.

 

When you say manifold gasket, you mean exhaust manifold?  I'll go ahead and order one and tackle it just to be sure.  I have to order parts and wait 24 hours for delivery because I have no parts suppliers within about 10 hours drive...

If I run into dead ends I will continue toward the compression and timing questions.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, KenyaDefense said:

 

When you say manifold gasket, you mean exhaust manifold?  I'll go ahead and order one and tackle it just to be sure.

Yes, it's a one piece for both inlet and exhaust. 

1 hour ago, KenyaDefense said:

NO temp ever registered and I was checking to see if the thermostat had stuck open or if the gauge was faulty or the sending unit. 

Has it been running low on coolant? 300tdi engines in particular do not tolerate low coolant well. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is the fuel filler cap breathing ok ? 

Are the fuel lines from the tank all ok ? - no crushed or kinked sections ? 

When ticking over is there lots of fuel coming out of the bleed bolt on the filter housing when opened ? I've had plenty of new replacement mechanical lift pumps fail in no time at all and now if in doubt I fit a Facet 12v inline pump...

Sometimes low fuel flow will make the FIP noisy (rattles) , any evidence of this ? 

check the return line flow by removing at a convenient point and emptying into a container , both ticking over and on a short run.

Welcome to the forum by the way :)

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Took the FIP lid off to gander inside.  I think the pin might be hanging.  I can only make the pin come out at full throttle (by hand manipulation of throttle assembly) and then when I push it back in with a screwdriver it hangs and then pops back in.  Any thoughts?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Soaked the pin and internals, cleaned, then reassembled.  Removed fuel filter, drained and shook it like crazy to get everything possible out, reinstalled and bled.  Seems like a bit more power but not much.  I can drive it but it crawls up low hills.  A month or so ago I passed everyone.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I tested the fuel at the inlet to the FIP and found good flow.  So fuel lift pump and filter are okay.  No FIP rattle.  Starting to think the FIP has been slowly dying.  I turned the main adjuster in 1/4 turn, the star gear 1/4 turn, and the low torx adjuster under the round cap 1 turn.  Some improvement now once turbo kicks in, but can hardly get going from a standstill (off turbo).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would check the timing on the injection pump. When was the belt last changed.

Also, the rubber O ring on the stop solenoid can break up and block the passageway in the back end of the pump. Perhaps removal of the solenoid for a look see inside wouldn't go amiss.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

39 minutes ago, KenyaDefense said:

Where is the stop solenoid?  The serpentine belt was done a few months back.  How do you check FIP timing?

Stop solenoid is the bit on the FIP that has a wire going to it. If you remove the wire with the engine off but ignition on you will hear a click as it closes. 

The timing belt is the toothed belt that drives the FIP and the camshaft inside the timing case. The serpentine belt isn't toothed and shouldn't be confused with the timing belt. The serpentine belt drives the water pump, PAS pump and alternator.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

TDC, then checked that pin rests easily in plug/hole/whatever name is.  I get no smoke except at startup.  No smoke seems to indicate lack of fuel at combustion.

I checked fuel flow to the filter, very good.  Then checked flow at the inlet to the FIP, also very good.  So I was thinking there must be a problem with delivery from FIP to injectors.  What say ye?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy