FridgeFreezer Posted June 20, 2022 Share Posted June 20, 2022 18 hours ago, Bowie69 said: Always nose up, 3 degrees sounds familiar, but need someone to confirm.... Sounds right to me - they definitely always sit nose-up, I can put an inclinometer on mine later if I remember Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 20, 2022 Share Posted June 20, 2022 Ballpark, yes, but with more weight on the truck, you may find your 1.8 becomes more like 0. I think I only mentioned it because you were about to chop up mounts and re-make, and you had clearance issues to tunnel, so perhaps the whole back of it was just a bit high... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill S Posted June 20, 2022 Author Share Posted June 20, 2022 Ok - thanks both. I suspect I'll be going quiet on this one for a short time while I finish reassembling the LT230 and engine.... ...and there's another dumb question to ask Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 20, 2022 Share Posted June 20, 2022 no such thing as 'dumb' questions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill S Posted July 16, 2022 Author Share Posted July 16, 2022 Almost ready to put the engine and boxes back in, so just to show what I finally decided to do on the rear mounts. Just a couple of 4mm plates and the brackets shown previously cut down to get everything into (what I believe is) the correct position. Brackets not welded to the back plates yet, I'll get the engine and boxes in place to make doubly sure everything is good, and tack weld the rear mounts to the back plates. Then I'll get them out again to complete the welding, before bolting it all down. Whaddayareckon? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 17, 2022 Share Posted July 17, 2022 Are you entering the yellow car arms race with @TSD ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill S Posted July 17, 2022 Author Share Posted July 17, 2022 Haven't come across that - will take a look around. Just wanted to be in with a chance of actually being able to see when underneath the thing! And didn't fancy a white chassis for no good reason... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill S Posted October 11, 2022 Author Share Posted October 11, 2022 An enforced absence for a time in Land Rover land, and more disruption looming. House re-decoration has apparently been required because her sister is coming to visit. Anyway, a quick update on this one. The brackets as shown above didn't work out, because yes, you guessed it, the c/l of the old 2.5 NA is different to the RV8 - the whole engine and transmission system have to move inboard by about 1½". So I ended up chopping the Disco 1 RHS bracket down to fit under the seat mount: Then I chopped off the end of the original NAS gearbox side mount and welded to plate to act as the chassis mount, and an original 300TDi type mount to bolt to the gearbox My old tin of Hammerite has gone a bit like toffee, but they'll do. Bolting all that together RHS: And the LHS: So that all sits very tidily: All good, and about ½" clearance between the top of the gearchange remote and the front edge of the 300 TDi seat box. Nice Job done? Probly not. This will get me going for the time being, but I'll keep an eye out for a reasonably priced 300 TDi cross member and the rest of the bracketry as in this pic from above... On 5/2/2022 at 11:10 PM, Retroanaconda said: I'll worry about all that again when it comes to fitting the exhaust. Slightly off-topic, but I assume I'll need a 300TDi rear propshaft? That will be good for 195 ft.lb at 1,800 rpm, Is it going to take the max torque from the V8 though? 230 ft.lb at 3,100rpm? I'm assuming the Disco 1 front propshaft will work fine... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted October 11, 2022 Share Posted October 11, 2022 1 hour ago, Phill S said: Slightly off-topic, but I assume I'll need a 300TDi rear propshaft? That will be good for 195 ft.lb at 1,800 rpm, Is it going to take the max torque from the V8 though? 230 ft.lb at 3,100rpm? I'm assuming the Disco 1 front propshaft will work fine... LR used the same style propshaft for almost everything - your issue is getting the correct length, not power handling. There's a very long and comprehensive thread somewhere on this forum listing all the propshaft lengths & part numbers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 11, 2022 Share Posted October 11, 2022 Also, 300TDI used the rubber doughnut rather than a normal yoke, didn't it? Better to look for an RRC rear prop, which should just bolt in. Failing that, D&F will make what you need with bigger joints for less than I could buy a new prop from the regular outlets! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill S Posted October 11, 2022 Author Share Posted October 11, 2022 27 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said: LR used the same style propshaft for almost everything - your issue is getting the correct length, not power handling. There's a very long and comprehensive thread somewhere on this forum listing all the propshaft lengths & part numbers. Great - I'll go looking for that. Should have done a search before writing the words... 17 minutes ago, Bowie69 said: Better to look for an RRC rear prop, which should just bolt in Sounds like good advice - thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill S Posted October 11, 2022 Author Share Posted October 11, 2022 40 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said: There's a very long and comprehensive thread somewhere on this forum listing all the propshaft lengths & part numbers This one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill S Posted October 11, 2022 Author Share Posted October 11, 2022 (edited) 59 minutes ago, Bowie69 said: Better to look for an RRC rear prop Looks like I need FRC8389? I have the Salisbury back axle. https://www.lrworkshop.com/parts/FRC8389 https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/frc8389-propshaft-110-v8-rear-from-vin-252258-and-early-lse.html Edited October 11, 2022 by Phill S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 11, 2022 Share Posted October 11, 2022 Ah, it'll be different then.... all bets off, out with a tape measure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted October 13, 2022 Share Posted October 13, 2022 On 10/11/2022 at 3:48 PM, Phill S said: An enforced absence for a time in Land Rover land, and more disruption looming. House re-decoration has apparently been required because her sister is coming to visit. Anyway, a quick update on this one. The brackets as shown above didn't work out, because yes, you guessed it, the c/l of the old 2.5 NA is different to the RV8 - the whole engine and transmission system have to move inboard by about 1½". So I ended up chopping the Disco 1 RHS bracket down to fit under the seat mount: Then I chopped off the end of the original NAS gearbox side mount and welded to plate to act as the chassis mount, and an original 300TDi type mount to bolt to the gearbox My old tin of Hammerite has gone a bit like toffee, but they'll do. Bolting all that together RHS: And the LHS: So that all sits very tidily: All good, and about ½" clearance between the top of the gearchange remote and the front edge of the 300 TDi seat box. Nice Job done? Probly not. This will get me going for the time being, but I'll keep an eye out for a reasonably priced 300 TDi cross member and the rest of the bracketry as in this pic from above... I'll worry about all that again when it comes to fitting the exhaust. Slightly off-topic, but I assume I'll need a 300TDi rear propshaft? That will be good for 195 ft.lb at 1,800 rpm, Is it going to take the max torque from the V8 though? 230 ft.lb at 3,100rpm? I'm assuming the Disco 1 front propshaft will work fine... Wow, your chassis is very ... erm ... yellow ! 😯🙂 Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill S Posted October 14, 2022 Author Share Posted October 14, 2022 13 hours ago, Mo Murphy said: Wow, your chassis is very ... erm ... yellow ! 😯🙂 Why thank ee kind sir! My efforts to be able to see anything when I'm under the truck. Seems to work pretty well actually. I think my final update on this (for the time being!) is the angle that the engine sits at: With aid of my every expense spared gauge and the straightest bit of wood I could find I get 2.7º to the horizontal, using the bulkhead as my vertical datum. Seems about right as a general consensus. The rear Disco 1 TF box bracket sets the vertical position at the back, which seems to be correct, giving me about ½" clearance between the top of the gearchange remote and the front edge of the seat box. I think I've got it about right.... At last! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hario' Posted July 24, 2023 Share Posted July 24, 2023 Any updates PhillS? your identifying early NAD mounts siting the tranny a different offset to later type has helped me work out why mine was sat on the pi** on the first mock up, 300tdi xmember mount asst now bought, thanks are in order. following with interest beers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill S Posted July 24, 2023 Author Share Posted July 24, 2023 Well the last few weeks have seen me wrestling with the re-wiring. Original vehicle was 24v, but I wanted to go 12v. Fitting the wiring loom from the donor Disco 1 seemed like a good idea, and I want the aircon and cruise control, and anti-theft, and leccie doros and a decent fuse system, and and and.... You get to a certain point where there's no going back because of all the work you put into it already..... Would I do the Disco wiring again? Yes, but in a fraction of the time having worked out how to arrange it. Back to the wiring diagrams... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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