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RV8 engine mount position for a 1987 110


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Ballpark, yes, but with more weight on the truck, you may find your 1.8 becomes more like 0. 

 

I think I only mentioned it because you were about to chop up mounts and re-make, and you had clearance issues to tunnel, so perhaps the whole back of it was just a bit high... 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Almost ready to put the engine and boxes back in, so just to show what I finally decided to do on the rear mounts. Just a couple of 4mm plates and the brackets shown previously cut down to get everything into (what I believe is) the correct position. 

Brackets not welded to the back plates yet, I'll get the engine and boxes in place to make doubly sure everything is good, and tack weld the rear mounts to the back plates. Then I'll get them out again to complete the welding, before bolting it all down.

Whaddayareckon?

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  • 2 months later...

An enforced absence for a time in Land Rover land, and more disruption looming. House re-decoration has apparently been required because her sister is coming to visit.

Anyway, a quick update on this one. The brackets as shown above didn't work out, because yes, you guessed it, the c/l of the old 2.5 NA is different to the RV8 - the whole engine and transmission system have to move inboard by about 1½". 

So I ended up chopping the Disco 1 RHS bracket down to fit under the seat mount:

20221006_111819.thumb.jpg.019387ffd3badd85f790bafafc6cdf84.jpg

 

Then I chopped off the end of the original NAS gearbox side mount and welded to plate to act as the chassis mount, and an original 300TDi type mount to bolt to the gearbox

20221006_111923.thumb.jpg.30cee378d73cd5a6bea1cafc2e94fca9.jpg

 

My old tin of Hammerite has gone a bit like toffee, but they'll do. Bolting all that together RHS:

20221006_124922.thumb.jpg.2705ea0dc1c27ca5eeea908583392847.jpg

 

And the LHS:

20221006_124953.thumb.jpg.b6edac9f8234a6f65514ffd6d0bc7758.jpg

 

So that all sits very tidily:

20221006_125531.thumb.jpg.4b4722800f4a999e59411c3f95089ea6.jpg

 

All good, and about ½" clearance between the top of the gearchange remote and the front edge of the 300 TDi seat box.

Nice

Job done?

Probly not. This will get me going for the time being, but I'll keep an eye out for a reasonably priced 300 TDi cross member and the rest of the bracketry as in this pic from above...

  

On 5/2/2022 at 11:10 PM, Retroanaconda said:

2C10A249-D88D-4FAC-8FF3-B37519CA9841.thumb.jpeg.bd3667e93c6df2ad22c91ada1284ca6c.jpeg

 

I'll worry about all that again when it comes to fitting the exhaust.

Slightly off-topic, but I assume I'll need a 300TDi rear propshaft? That will be good for 195 ft.lb at 1,800 rpm, Is it going to take the max torque from the V8 though? 230 ft.lb at 3,100rpm? I'm assuming the Disco 1 front propshaft will work fine...

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1 hour ago, Phill S said:

Slightly off-topic, but I assume I'll need a 300TDi rear propshaft? That will be good for 195 ft.lb at 1,800 rpm, Is it going to take the max torque from the V8 though? 230 ft.lb at 3,100rpm? I'm assuming the Disco 1 front propshaft will work fine...

LR used the same style propshaft for almost everything - your issue is getting the correct length, not power handling.

There's a very long and comprehensive thread somewhere on this forum listing all the propshaft lengths & part numbers.

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Also, 300TDI used the rubber doughnut rather than a normal yoke, didn't it?

Better to look for an RRC rear prop, which should just bolt in.

Failing that, D&F will make what you need with bigger joints for less than I could buy a new prop from the regular outlets!

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27 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

LR used the same style propshaft for almost everything - your issue is getting the correct length, not power handling.

There's a very long and comprehensive thread somewhere on this forum listing all the propshaft lengths & part numbers.

Great - I'll go looking for that. Should have done a search before writing the words...

 

17 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

Better to look for an RRC rear prop, which should just bolt in

Sounds like good advice - thanks. 

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On 10/11/2022 at 3:48 PM, Phill S said:

An enforced absence for a time in Land Rover land, and more disruption looming. House re-decoration has apparently been required because her sister is coming to visit.

Anyway, a quick update on this one. The brackets as shown above didn't work out, because yes, you guessed it, the c/l of the old 2.5 NA is different to the RV8 - the whole engine and transmission system have to move inboard by about 1½". 

So I ended up chopping the Disco 1 RHS bracket down to fit under the seat mount:

20221006_111819.thumb.jpg.019387ffd3badd85f790bafafc6cdf84.jpg

 

Then I chopped off the end of the original NAS gearbox side mount and welded to plate to act as the chassis mount, and an original 300TDi type mount to bolt to the gearbox

20221006_111923.thumb.jpg.30cee378d73cd5a6bea1cafc2e94fca9.jpg

 

My old tin of Hammerite has gone a bit like toffee, but they'll do. Bolting all that together RHS:

20221006_124922.thumb.jpg.2705ea0dc1c27ca5eeea908583392847.jpg

 

And the LHS:

20221006_124953.thumb.jpg.b6edac9f8234a6f65514ffd6d0bc7758.jpg

 

So that all sits very tidily:

20221006_125531.thumb.jpg.4b4722800f4a999e59411c3f95089ea6.jpg

 

All good, and about ½" clearance between the top of the gearchange remote and the front edge of the 300 TDi seat box.

Nice

Job done?

Probly not. This will get me going for the time being, but I'll keep an eye out for a reasonably priced 300 TDi cross member and the rest of the bracketry as in this pic from above...

  

 

I'll worry about all that again when it comes to fitting the exhaust.

Slightly off-topic, but I assume I'll need a 300TDi rear propshaft? That will be good for 195 ft.lb at 1,800 rpm, Is it going to take the max torque from the V8 though? 230 ft.lb at 3,100rpm? I'm assuming the Disco 1 front propshaft will work fine...

Wow, your chassis is very ... erm ... yellow ! 😯🙂

Mo

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13 hours ago, Mo Murphy said:

Wow, your chassis is very ... erm ... yellow ! 😯🙂

Why thank ee kind sir! My efforts to be able to see anything when I'm under the truck. Seems to work pretty well actually.

I think my final update on this (for the time being!) is the angle that the engine sits at:

20221012_132103.thumb.jpg.494b36e15196855463210c56167bb766.jpg

 

With aid of my every expense spared gauge and the straightest bit of wood I could find I get 2.7º to the horizontal, using the bulkhead as my vertical datum. Seems about right as a general consensus.

The rear Disco 1 TF box bracket sets the vertical position at the back, which seems to be correct, giving me about ½" clearance between the top of the gearchange remote and the front edge of the seat box. I think I've got it about right....

At last!

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  • 9 months later...

Any updates PhillS?

your identifying early NAD mounts siting the tranny a different offset to later type has helped me work out why mine was sat on the pi** on the first mock up, 300tdi xmember mount asst now bought, thanks are in order.

following with interest

beers

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Well the last few weeks have seen me wrestling with the re-wiring. Original vehicle was 24v, but I wanted to go 12v. Fitting the wiring loom from the donor Disco 1 seemed like a good idea, and I want the aircon and cruise control, and anti-theft, and leccie doros and a decent fuse system, and and and.... You get to a certain point where there's no going back because of all the work you put into it already.....

Would I do the Disco wiring again? Yes, but in a fraction of the time having worked out how to arrange it.

Back to the wiring diagrams...

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