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Don't try this at home


Simon_CSK

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You all know the disappointment you get when you spend time preparing your car for the MOT and it fails.

Yesterday I took two of my cars for their annual check, mt Range Rover Sport TDV8 and a recently aquired L322 Vogue SE 4.4 petrol. Unfortunately they both failed the sport was relatively minor needing a rear propshaft, washer bottle sorting and and a brake pipe that has coffoded, The L322 had 4 issues but before the test concluded I demonstraighted one issue,

The L322 has emissions issues which was a big worry as I have been working to resolve this and have fitted new plugs and coil packs so will change the lamda sensors newxt unless someone more knowledgable has ideas. The other issues are relatively minor with the headlight insecure and hand brake needing adjustion. The tester also said that the front passenger door didn't open but fortunately I had discovered a knack to this which worked sometimes if hit just rght. Sometimes it needs pulled two or three times but does open. So I confirmed it would open walked up to the car and snatched the handle and the door opens properly. I know I will need to replace the outer handle or the cable but it does solve it for now. 

So a big disappointment 2 failures in one day. Having sad need to winch the sport out of the field as it is up hill and very muddy so there was some entertainment. 

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4 hours ago, Simon_CSK said:

The L322 has emissions issues which was a big worry as I have been working to resolve this and have fitted new plugs and coil packs so will change the lamda sensors newxt unless someone more knowledgable has ideas. 

Not sure what you have done already but I have had success with vehicles that struggle with the emissions by putting in fresh fuel (Obviously the less of the old fuel in there the better) and I have also found running super unleaded helps for the test. This is the Only way I can get my Volvo 850 with questionable after market Cat through 

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4 hours ago, Simon_CSK said:

have fitted new plugs and coil packs so will change the lamda sensors newxt unless someone more knowledgable has ideas

If you can describe the "emissions issues" it may be more helpful/cheaper than just changing parts willy nilly :P

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5 hours ago, L19MUD said:

Not sure what you have done already but I have had success with vehicles that struggle with the emissions by putting in fresh fuel (Obviously the less of the old fuel in there the better) and I have also found running super unleaded helps for the test. This is the Only way I can get my Volvo 850 with questionable after market Cat through 

It does still have a mis fire on 2 cylinders and when I run on LPG it over fuels and mis fires on all cylinders which leads me to suspect the lamda sensors.

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5 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

If you can describe the "emissions issues" it may be more helpful/cheaper than just changing parts willy nilly :P

There are no symptoms to describe occasionally I will get a message up that says Engine system problem or similar and that is all the EML doesn't come on or anything but when plugged in it says 4 and 5 cylinders have a misfire. 

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Interesting finding.

Before I took the car for the MOT I filled the header tank on the cooling system as I was getting a message that the coolant was low. During the MOT it was noted it was overheating however when I drove the car home the gauge was in the middle (never been there before) and the heater was blowing very very hot. (not complaining)

Over the weekend I tried to bleed the cooling system and fed coolant directly into the LPG vaporiser. I then took the car for a 6 mile drive and while the coolant didn't come up to the middle of the gauge I was able to drive the car on LPG, before it had been over fuelling and misfiring. 

Can the cooling system affect the emissions?

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And even on petrol, the temperature sensor affects the fuelling, so if there's a mismatch beween the actual temperature and what the sensor is seeing, that can cause rough running as well.

I had that happen a few years ago in Sweden, the way I had the block heater plumbed it was causing the coolant in the top of the block (where the sensor is) to cool down while driving, to the point it went into warm up enrichment. But the block itself was at normal temperature, so it was massively overfuelling and stuttering.

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10 hours ago, Bowie69 said:

With no coolant in the vaporiser it will squirt liquid gas into the inlet, massively overfueling... so yes.

 

That makes perfect sense. It seemed to be massive overfueling and certainly for the little use of the gas I had it used a lot of it.

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