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Series 3 clutch bleeding


blz6662

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Hi All,

Having a bit of a nightmare trying to get a good pedal on my SWB Station Wagon 1977 and wondered if anyone has used the Phoenix Systems reverse bleeding kit.

I've fitted a new master cylinder (LOF Power Master), new hard lines, Goodridge Stainless Flexible and TRW slave cylinder.

Master set up in the box to give the required 1.5mm clearance on the piston and the foot pedal set at 140mm from the floorplate.

First I tried Vacuum bleeding using my tried and tested (many many times) clarke pneumatic vaccuum bleeder and pushed about half a litre through - this gave about 1 inch of pedal.

Truck raised at the front on ramps.

Second attempt pressure bleeding from the master using my fancy full sealey kit - used on the last couple of 2a's I've not long completed - Perfect. This still only gave me a bit more pedal but still a good bit to go.

It will engage the gears but the bite is just off the floor. It's just not good enough. I've also tried bracing the pedal down for a day and a bit to see if any air will rise, but no better, so getting frustrated now.

I'm going to try the one man bleeding kit via check valve into a bottle technique from operation the pedal as I think it's air in the master. I can't clamp the flexi aand test as I have fitted the goodridge hose!

Soooo! is the reverse bleeder thingy any good - it's not cheap for a plastic jobby and read various reviews both good and bad.

Let me know guys as I need to move on to other jobs, not had this with any other landies/rangeys I've owned or worked on.

Cheers

blz6662

 

  

Yellow-V-5-Packaging.jpg

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Any photos of the slave cylinder in situ?

I ask, because the first time I did one of these, I put the bleed nipple on the lower hole on the slave, to make it easier for me.....

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Hi Gazzar,

I forgot to mention that the bleed nipple is on the top, slightly obscured by the lower feed pipe (new). I use a a half moon spanner to get at it.

I'll post some pics of the install later tomorrow. This is the first LOF Power Cylinder I've used and wonder if it is an issue with that.

I hope not it wasn't cheap.

Cheers

 

Baden

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New hard lines, made myself from 1/4" copper. The blue box steel one in the kit wasn't even close! grr, what a surprise.

I'll check for kinks, also if I'm going to drain down again I'm going make  the remote bleed nipple pipe assembly as quoted as an optional extra.  

Clutch Remote bleed.JPG

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I've got one of those to fit to my lightweight, one day.....

 

Okay more obvious stuff, you've grease on the threads of the bleed nipple? Clear pipe with no bubbles? The pedal pivot point is free?

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On 3/2/2023 at 5:47 PM, Gazzar said:

It does sound like the MC is knackered.

I'd agree. I use a 0.75 MC with extended reservoir and that helps make the job easier. I'm not that experienced on LR but i fitted the slave cylinder without trouble. I put the extension reservoir on the brake MC as well. If you have the remote reservoir screw straight into the MC.... why didn't LR do that? If you have the 'bean can' [or plastic reservoir with hose connection] it could be slightly leaking and so you run out of fluid or possibly there is blockage in the line which restricts flow.

I've never used the bleeding devices and changed bleed nipples every 2-3 years. Just had a bitter experience with a car i am trying to get on the road [which has been sitting for 3 yrs whereby the bleed nipple on the calliper sheared when i undid it. Bleed nipples rust down the inside weakening them... always keep caps on.

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Hi All,

I've removed the hardline to the flexible and remade it as one of the bends was a bit tight and may have caused a trap.

I've also now made and fitted the bleed port pipe to a remote/ easier position so all I need to do now it to nip up all the connections and try again.

I've got some pics to put up but my card reader failed so awaiting a new one.

Back to the workshop tonight and will report back.

Cheers

Baden 

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Morning Guys,

Bleeding update.

As stated, went to the 'shed of dread' last night and checked the plumbing, tightened all the fittings then tried something new!

I bought a Laser bottle mini pump (small not car) and reverse bled the system using my repositioned bleed nipple location and after only a few pumps I'm seeing fluid in the reservoir.

Continued until nearly full, tightened the nipple and Heeaaay Got Pedal. Started her up and went though the gears no problem - Happy Days.

Result. At last!

I do think the culprit was the over tight bend in the first pipe I made, maybe a combination, don't know for sure.

Anywhoo, I can move on now and rebuild the swivels, replace the steering rods, bump stops and front shocks now.

I must say the clutch is a lot lighter with the LOF Powermaster cylinder. Going off the subject I also fitted the LOF Overhaul FR & R Brake kits from Paddocks and they are a quality item and recommended.

As promised I will post some pics as soon as I can get them on my PC - I'm old skool and still use my camera for workshop pics.

Cheers All

 

Baden   

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Hi Gazzar,

Hopefully mate yes.

Anyway some various pics as promised on the tooling and new components.

I will put some more up showing the pedal footwell repair needed after digging into it plus the LOF Brakes.

 

Cheers

 

Bade

project RAV.jpg

bleeding kit 1.jpg

bleeding kit 2.jpg

laser pump.jpg

LOF Powermaster.jpg

new slave to flex pipe.jpg

slave bleed at top.jpg

remote bleed nipple capped.jpg

remote bleed nipple.jpg

rav new brakes-shocks.jpg

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Thanks Guys,

I might start a new thread on Series 3 resto then I can back track what I've done so far - Loadsa piccy's.

Finished a 2a for a friend not so long ago and that's got some interesting 'before's & after's.

Kind regards

 

Baden 

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