TD5toV8110 Posted September 11, 2023 Share Posted September 11, 2023 Rocky Mountain door tops or? Off an S2, need to replace the bolts, had to cut the old, rusted ones. Small access hole looks (impossible?) to insert new long bolts. What do you lot think? Cheers Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted September 12, 2023 Share Posted September 12, 2023 I don’t think they are RM. RM have both glass panes move like on 90/110 and have latches on the glass, not the SIII square tendon type latch in the bottom of the frame, though these look like they have also been made to take the plunger type latch of the SII at the tops of the frames. I haven’t seen these on the market before, though I haven’t exactly been searching - I suspect they could be custom made. They look like they are very sturdy, more so than the genuine SII and SIII frames. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD5toV8110 Posted September 12, 2023 Author Share Posted September 12, 2023 Yes S2 latches at the top. And fixed front pane. The hole at the bottom had a patch riveted over. I can only assume access to get the bolts in. Someone else said "only" RM ever made Rover tops in Ally. Tooling for the extrusions would be $$$ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted September 12, 2023 Share Posted September 12, 2023 Hi Dave, Can you or do you have access to aluminium welding, if you look back on my mog thread to page 120 you can see I welded in some 10mm aluminium and drilled and tapped it to take the long bolts ( page 121 ) If you were over here I could have done it for you Regards Stephen 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted September 12, 2023 Share Posted September 12, 2023 I would use Blind Bolts Handy for situations like this. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted September 12, 2023 Share Posted September 12, 2023 1 hour ago, TD5toV8110 said: Someone else said "only" RM ever made Rover tops in Ally. The Military stuff and early 110's had alloy door tops, could it be those? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted September 12, 2023 Share Posted September 12, 2023 29 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said: The Military stuff and early 110's had alloy door tops, could it be those? They are not quite the same as the military ones I have as mine have much larger holes in them to operate the locking mechanism at the bottom and then don't have the series style lock at the top Like this 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted September 12, 2023 Share Posted September 12, 2023 39 minutes ago, simonr said: I would use Blind Bolts Handy for situations like this. I have never seen those before! Genius. How do you flick the top over so it holds and where can you buy them from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted September 12, 2023 Share Posted September 12, 2023 2 hours ago, TD5toV8110 said: Yes S2 latches at the top. And fixed front pane. The hole at the bottom had a patch riveted over. I can only assume access to get the bolts in. Someone else said "only" RM ever made Rover tops in Ally. Tooling for the extrusions would be $$$ Those bottom holes are for SIII window latches, but would also allow the captive nuts for the frame to be inserted. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted September 12, 2023 Share Posted September 12, 2023 Normally gravity will flip the toggle - however rotating the bolt, giving it a flick by hand is enough to centrifuge the toggle out when the bolt is vertical. We generally get them from Orbital Fasteners - but just google for 'Blind Bolt' 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted September 12, 2023 Share Posted September 12, 2023 Worst case, you could fit some big rivnuts in there, but Simon’s blind bolts look the best solution as you would be better able to set the frame alignment with windscreen edge or roof sides as they will allow some pivot if you ensure the “wings” run fore-aft, with some rubber packing strips to control the tilt of the frame. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD5toV8110 Posted September 12, 2023 Author Share Posted September 12, 2023 (edited) Thanks guys! I had an epiphany! Maybe the rusty bolt wasn't welded to the L bracket and just rusted in place..... I belted it with a hammer and they separated! The original bolts were L shaped, L bracket slid in for strength/support, feed "L shaped" bolt in through slot/bracket and rotate 90 ° They must be early Rocky Mountain? 🤔 Expert pic for clarity! 🤪 Edited September 12, 2023 by TD5toV8110 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted September 13, 2023 Share Posted September 13, 2023 21 hours ago, L19MUD said: They are not quite the same as the military ones I have as mine have much larger holes in them to operate the locking mechanism at the bottom and then don't have the series style lock at the top Like this I don’t think they were specifically MoD spec - I think they were fitted to all 110s (and perhaps the earliest 90s) before the wind-up window with old style lift handle doors were used. I’m quite happy to see these used on expensively refurbished Defenders, but I hate seeing SIII door tops on them - it is a cheap cop out and is plain wrong. If they can’t find some of these 110 tops, then they could at least use the RM type. It really spoils the result and makes me wonder what else they cut corners and costs on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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