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Posted (edited)

Hello all 

any of you out there lt230 transfer box wizards?

have a problem 

I drove my 110 on to my drive in 2021 without fault 

completely stripped it new chassis the works so last week new lt77 gear box in my old transfer box is bolted on only difference is I had to buy new input shaft for transfer box but now it seems to be sticking 

see photo but was told this is right shaft for my box lt230 

as you can see the gear is a tad wider would this cause a problem?

the pto is different but not bothered as don’t use pto length is same bearings in same place,

also very little oil in gear box would that cause it not to want to drive? 
wouldn’t of thought so?

when I say drive I’m talking back and forth in the garage half a foot driving lol 

FF84A466-8FD7-48AA-99BF-026A1973AC2A.jpeg

DF22A544-2D62-4957-A423-C7076CD97461.jpeg

Edited by Green200tdi
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There is one bolt that if you get it in the wrong place touches the gear and can jam it ? There’s a long and a short bolt but it’s been a while since I had the same problem 

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Posted (edited)
38 minutes ago, 92a said:

There is one bolt that if you get it in the wrong place touches the gear and can jam it ? There’s a long and a short bolt but it’s been a while since I had the same problem 

So the gear in the photo is ok tho it’s a tad wider? That’s not catching on anything in the box? 
 

what or where is the bolt your talking about?

Edited by Green200tdi
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I don’t know that bolt’s location, but I think it is either once mating the gearbox to the transfer case or the centre diff housing to the transfer case.  I remember it being a feature in one of Mike’s BritRest videos.  Seems a likely cause, and if it is only a problem since putting this new gear in, then the bolt must fall within the diameter of the gear.

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Just remember to put all the bolts in the hole they came from. In my first LT230 that bolt was bent due to the contact with the gear. The box worked, but the bent bolt ruined the thread, when I turned it out.

 

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4 hours ago, Sigi_H said:

Just to mention: The bolt and the nut are in the sortiment you allways have to have in your workshop 😉

😂 

can’t work out for the life of me what’s wrong with transfer box now, 

only thing I can do is remove the new input shaft I fitted see if that’s the problem. 

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Posted (edited)

If the input gear is new the shims in the PTO cover plate might need to be changed? (Most people get new input gear from Ashcroft or similar with the bearings already installed and just use the old races rather than the new ones that are supplied) which is not the best idea ? 

Edited by 92a
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52 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Is it definitely the correct gear ratio for your box?

It’s a 26 teeth which I’m lead to believe is correct 

same as original gear fits snug on the gear box output shaft too.

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4 hours ago, 92a said:

If the input gear is new the shims in the PTO cover plate might need to be changed? (Most people get new input gear from Ashcroft or similar with the bearings already installed and just use the old races rather than the new ones that are supplied) which is not the best idea ? 

I got new shaft new bearings had bearing fitted by local garage, 

shims are in the removable pto plate arnt they? 

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5 minutes ago, Snagger said:

Yes, but you may need both the gear box and transfer box in neutral to do it.

Yeah that’s what I did,

turns out it’s my new input shaft I’m guessing it’s wrong one as now put back the old one the car has gone back to it’s old self not locking up rolling in gear clutch down engine running 

more learning 😂

so another shaft is needed 🙄

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What a pain.  Maybe Dave @ashtrans can shed some light on it.  The wider teeth might be binding on something, or maybe the old and new gears have a different profile even though they have the same tooth count?

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2 hours ago, Snagger said:

What a pain.  Maybe Dave @ashtrans can shed some light on it.  The wider teeth might be binding on something, or maybe the old and new gears have a different profile even though they have the same tooth count?

Who knows 🤔

Yep might be an idea to get on to Ashcroft transmissions,

just worried I don’t want to damage my new gear Box cost me enough 😊

I’ll keep you updated 

 

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IF you look at the input gear the end bit [see  picture] is also difrent to the old one, so I would defo say you new gear is wrong

FF84A466-8FD7-48AA-99BF-026A1973AC2A.jpeg.d865ed78ceb8d2d60644723c74396eac.jpeg

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2 hours ago, GregK said:

IF you look at the input gear the end bit [see  picture] is also difrent to the old one, so I would defo say you new gear is wrong

FF84A466-8FD7-48AA-99BF-026A1973AC2A.jpeg.d865ed78ceb8d2d60644723c74396eac.jpeg

Oh yes I did notice that but as I don’t intend to use a pto not sure that matters,🤷‍♀️so long as shaft is same length and bearing in same place as old one should be fine but I recon it’s to do with the cog,

I removed the plate then the ring nothing changed but soon as I pulled the shaft out with a bit of a fight and put in the old one all was well again,

only thing now is looking for another with same pto gear teeth that’s fine but they don’t seem to have the four oil holes so just looking on line now, 

mm4x4 

Gwen Lewis can’t find anything from these shops 

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Your transfer box appears to be a B suffix which should take an FRC5428 input gear. They do not come cross drilled, but you can buy an oil-feed plate at the back cover to lubricate the mainshaft.

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6 hours ago, Green200tdi said:

Oh yes I did notice that but as I don’t intend to use a pto not sure that matters,🤷‍♀️so long as shaft is same length and bearing in same place as old one should be fine but I recon it’s to do with the cog,

I removed the plate then the ring nothing changed but soon as I pulled the shaft out with a bit of a fight and put in the old one all was well again,

only thing now is looking for another with same pto gear teeth that’s fine but they don’t seem to have the four oil holes so just looking on line now, 

mm4x4 

Gwen Lewis can’t find anything from these shops 

To me all says it is a wrong gear.  I would contact Ashcrofts and see what they say or if they have a correct gear. Also I think I have read somwhere in a past about people cross drilling their original gears. Maybe that's an option?. I'm sure someone will correct me about that if I'm wrong.

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You could try to drill it, but it's hardeded, especially on the internal splines. I did one on my mill with a carbide endmill, goes through with ease being careful when aproaching the spline. Some people do it with a masonry drill, works as well but probably you'll break some.

The new input gear you have although the same no of teeth has a different tooth profile, that's why it binds.

The FRC5428 you need has a shorter spline, probably the reason LR did not cross drill them and used the modified oil plate instead.

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