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Wing tops...?


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Hi,

I've been stomping over my 110 recently, and feel the need to fit some chequer plate wing tops...

How are they fitted...?

Glued on?

Bolted through the wing tops...? maybe with spacers...?

Sticky backed plastic...?

thanks in advance

db

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they usally just rivited on mate , no spacers , would look odd :unsure:

ive drilled and counter sunk mine and bolted them on , but some bolts trickey to get at , so would just rivit them on

aldi had a pop riviter for around £10 there last week ideal for the job

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they usally just rivited on mate , no spacers , would look odd :unsure:

ive drilled and counter sunk mine and bolted them on , but some bolts trickey to get at , so would just rivit them on

aldi had a pop riviter for around £10 there last week ideal for the job

Thanks gsr, is there any point in putting a membrane, or padding between them, or do you just say goodbye to the paint work.. I guess once fitted they have to stay...?

cheers

db

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Genuine wing top check plates, are foam backed, and bolted through with countersunk set screws,

Access all the nuts via the top vents/covers etc ,

Hi,

Use small (M5) stainless countersunk hex head screws and nyloc nuts with penny washers under the nuts. That way you can control the "wind down" of the fasteners. It also reduces "dis-similar metal corrosion" round the fasteners.

Glue a piece of rubber on the back (old inner tube is ideal) for padding as well.

Regards

Scrumps

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Aftermarket wing tops always seem to be such a bad fit, so I made my own. They are held on with alluminium blind rivets. Using steel countersunk screws is a bad idea - they promote electrolytic corrosion and the screw then lets go of the metal and the chequer plate comes loose.

Les.

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Thanks guys wonderful, helpful replies as always...

I have some sticky backed 5mm rubber tape, which I will run round the outside edge and air intake opening, stainless steel counter sunk bolts, large penny washers, lock nuts..

Many thanks

db

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Aftermarket wing tops always seem to be such a bad fit, so I made my own. They are held on with alluminium blind rivets. Using steel countersunk screws is a bad idea - they promote electrolytic corrosion and the screw then lets go of the metal and the chequer plate comes loose.

Les.

Quite right Les...which is why I said to use Stainless!!!!(Which I did on my sills 5 years ago and have had no snags).

Scrumps

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There's an ally based anti-seize spray that's very good for stopping any reaction between ally and steel. I've used it for several years now and it's been very good. It's also good for using on hubs if you have ally wheels as it stops any reaction and wheels are easy to take off. I originally got it from Mr Fastner with some stainless steel bolts.

You can buy it here..

Anti-Seize

Cheers

Steve

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I was going to use stainless steel washers and nyloc nuts/bolts, then did a search on t'internet and found out that the electrolytic action is worse between ally/ss than "normal" steel. So used Zinc plated instead. Apparently most yachts have all masts that run down into the hull and locate into a ss fixing, but but both metals are well isolated/ insulated from each other. The corrosion in accelerated in damp/wet/marine applications..............................................................appare

tly!!

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