rekab69 Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 Hi, I've been stomping over my 110 recently, and feel the need to fit some chequer plate wing tops... How are they fitted...? Glued on? Bolted through the wing tops...? maybe with spacers...? Sticky backed plastic...? thanks in advance db Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsr341 Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 they usally just rivited on mate , no spacers , would look odd ive drilled and counter sunk mine and bolted them on , but some bolts trickey to get at , so would just rivit them on aldi had a pop riviter for around £10 there last week ideal for the job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rekab69 Posted May 31, 2007 Author Share Posted May 31, 2007 they usally just rivited on mate , no spacers , would look odd ive drilled and counter sunk mine and bolted them on , but some bolts trickey to get at , so would just rivit them on aldi had a pop riviter for around £10 there last week ideal for the job Thanks gsr, is there any point in putting a membrane, or padding between them, or do you just say goodbye to the paint work.. I guess once fitted they have to stay...? cheers db Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 On my 110 I laid a bead of clear silicone sealant around the outer edge & around the heater air intake cutout to prevent water getting under the treadplate cover & rivetted them into place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 rivets and some silicon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJ101 Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 Genuine wing top check plates, are foam backed, and bolted through with countersunk set screws, Access all the nuts via the top vents/covers etc , Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrumps Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 Genuine wing top check plates, are foam backed, and bolted through with countersunk set screws, Access all the nuts via the top vents/covers etc , Hi, Use small (M5) stainless countersunk hex head screws and nyloc nuts with penny washers under the nuts. That way you can control the "wind down" of the fasteners. It also reduces "dis-similar metal corrosion" round the fasteners. Glue a piece of rubber on the back (old inner tube is ideal) for padding as well. Regards Scrumps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 Aftermarket wing tops always seem to be such a bad fit, so I made my own. They are held on with alluminium blind rivets. Using steel countersunk screws is a bad idea - they promote electrolytic corrosion and the screw then lets go of the metal and the chequer plate comes loose. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rekab69 Posted June 1, 2007 Author Share Posted June 1, 2007 Thanks guys wonderful, helpful replies as always... I have some sticky backed 5mm rubber tape, which I will run round the outside edge and air intake opening, stainless steel counter sunk bolts, large penny washers, lock nuts.. Many thanks db Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrumps Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 Aftermarket wing tops always seem to be such a bad fit, so I made my own. They are held on with alluminium blind rivets. Using steel countersunk screws is a bad idea - they promote electrolytic corrosion and the screw then lets go of the metal and the chequer plate comes loose.Les. Quite right Les...which is why I said to use Stainless!!!!(Which I did on my sills 5 years ago and have had no snags). Scrumps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted June 2, 2007 Share Posted June 2, 2007 IIRC stainless steel and ally are a bad mix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted June 2, 2007 Share Posted June 2, 2007 There's an ally based anti-seize spray that's very good for stopping any reaction between ally and steel. I've used it for several years now and it's been very good. It's also good for using on hubs if you have ally wheels as it stops any reaction and wheels are easy to take off. I originally got it from Mr Fastner with some stainless steel bolts. You can buy it here.. Anti-Seize Cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonost24 Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 I was going to use stainless steel washers and nyloc nuts/bolts, then did a search on t'internet and found out that the electrolytic action is worse between ally/ss than "normal" steel. So used Zinc plated instead. Apparently most yachts have all masts that run down into the hull and locate into a ss fixing, but but both metals are well isolated/ insulated from each other. The corrosion in accelerated in damp/wet/marine applications..............................................................appare tly!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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