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07 Defender Niggles


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Right then. I've ran in nearly 200 miles on a new 07 110 sw and I've picked up on a few niggles. Have any of you experienced the following:

ABS light used to go off straight away when starting up. It now takes 30-40 seconds when the vehicle is cold (at first I didn't think it was going to go out)

If coasting to junction in neutral with either clutch in or out I get a clunking from the drivetrain

When engaging diff lock it took a while for the warning light to come on at first. It now comes on straight away. However, when taking diff lock out, the gear stick will move into a central position and a position further to the right. If you move the shift as far right as it will go eventually it moves back to the central position. (Only found this out when looking for the cause of the second symptom.

Also, unusual for a defender, the outside lane of a dual carriageway is no longer a frustrating place to be (although the new gear ratio's are taking a bit of getting used to)

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after about 1600 miles the dealer has had it for the last 22 days out of the six weeks i have had it

ABS LIGHT

normal only goes out at 5 mph if it say on it takes let me think now some where near 22 day for a new abs sensor to arrive :lol:

CLUNKING

its a defender sir just think of all envious people looking

DIFFLOCK

whats diff lock :hysterical: Dan Dan the motorway man

can't wait to get it back and dump the bland disco 3 hse loaner

dan

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My ABS light always goes out, as soon at you pull away, Problem is, that it will then come one whenever it feels like, along with the Tracs light !! Two fixes by the supply dealer has yet to sort it, now waiting for the elusive sensors to arrive, (meant to be today)

Only clunk i am getting, is when pulling away with the trailer on !! none of the previous TD5's did it :(

Only real issue i have, is the high underside temperature, near the gearbox/ handbrake lever, after about a 60/70 mile run Dealer has striped and adjusted the handbrake, but have you to check it

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My ABS light always goes out, as soon at you pull away, Problem is, that it will then come one whenever it feels like, along with the Tracs light !! Two fixes by the supply dealer has yet to sort it, now waiting for the elusive sensors to arrive, (meant to be today)

Only clunk i am getting, is when pulling away with the trailer on !! none of the previous TD5's did it :(

Only real issue i have, is the high underside temperature, near the gearbox/ handbrake lever, after about a 60/70 mile run Dealer has striped and adjusted the handbrake, but have you to check it

high temperature is due to wait for it the FITTED CARPET

hi tim

spoke to the dealer about the hight temp and its due to the top of the seat box being carpeted which is holding the heat in and and allowing the metal around the drivers leg area to get hot

cools down very quick after the run

i have a abs sensor :P:P dealer rang today pick it up monday after its been re painted

dan

dan

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high temperature is due to wait for it the FITTED CARPET

hi tim

spoke to the dealer about the hight temp and its due to the top of the seat box being carpeted which is holding the heat in and and allowing the metal around the drivers leg area to get hot

cools down very quick after the run

i have a abs sensor :P:P dealer rang today pick it up monday after its been re painted

dan

dan

Dan, yep dealer also has a sensor waiting for me,

Taking it in to fix when it suits me,, ie late tomorrow evening, and picking up a TDV8 for the weekend ;):D

The lame excuse of the carpet retaining the heat, is Bo----ks, non of my previous TD5's ran as hot, with or without the carpet !! :angry:

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Right then. I've ran in nearly 200 miles on a new 07 110 sw and I've picked up on a few niggles. Have any of you experienced the following:

ABS light used to go off straight away when starting up. It now takes 30-40 seconds when the vehicle is cold (at first I didn't think it was going to go out)

If coasting to junction in neutral with either clutch in or out I get a clunking from the drivetrain

When engaging diff lock it took a while for the warning light to come on at first. It now comes on straight away. However, when taking diff lock out, the gear stick will move into a central position and a position further to the right. If you move the shift as far right as it will go eventually it moves back to the central position. (Only found this out when looking for the cause of the second symptom.

Also, unusual for a defender, the outside lane of a dual carriageway is no longer a frustrating place to be (although the new gear ratio's are taking a bit of getting used to)

I've done about 1,700 miles now.

ABS - light comes on at start but behaves itself and goes out appropriately

Coasting - not something I tend to do but had no issues with clunking

Diff lock - used a moderate amount and, again, seems to work just fine. The usual lag for off but thats always the case.

6th gear - fabulous when I need it, but nearest motorway is 50 miles away.

Gearbox heat - not noticed any. Have done a few two hour trips including some motorway and it's been fine.

Issues I have:

Heated front seat - very slow to heat up compared to my D3. God help my arse when it's -10C.

Two of the lights, a front side, and a rear indicator, looked like the bulbs had failed but the connections were just loose. Quickly fixed by me.

Offside headlight has condensation in it. Just noticed this tonight. I'm not familiar with the unit. Is this a dodgy seal or something terminally wrong with the unit?

Other than that it's fine (he said, tempting fate) and a joy to drive.

Colin

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I very surprised that people are finding things wrong with their new defenders, I've done 6k in mine now and not one problem. I'm afraid there is a slight transmission clunk when coasting, this has always been the same as the props and diffs are still rotating and they do have play in them even when new.

The only heat from my transmission tunnel is the underdash heater will still blow hot air on onto tunnel area even when switched off due to it working off ram air aswell, ensure the temp is set to cold and not just switched off.

There has been quite a few complaints about the new defender and people paying 20>30k for a vehicle that might not have the build quality of a D3 (heated seats etc), but I'm afraid we must not forget that Land Rover is where it is today becuase of this old clunky beast. They are a fit for purpuse machine that will pull any cattle trailer covered in cow sh8t for alot longer than any other 4x4.

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Guest diesel_jim
I very surprised that people are finding things wrong with their new defenders, I've done 6k in mine now and not one problem. I'm afraid there is a slight transmission clunk when coasting, this has always been the same as the props and diffs are still rotating and they do have play in them even when new.

The only heat from my transmission tunnel is the underdash heater will still blow hot air on onto tunnel area even when switched off due to it working off ram air aswell, ensure the temp is set to cold and not just switched off.

There has been quite a few complaints about the new defender and people paying 20>30k for a vehicle that might not have the build quality of a D3 (heated seats etc), but I'm afraid we must not forget that Land Rover is where it is today becuase of this old clunky beast. They are a fit for purpuse machine that will pull any cattle trailer covered in cow sh8t for alot longer than any other 4x4.

you must work for LR with answers like that! :P:P:P

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There has been quite a few complaints about the new defender and people paying 20>30k for a vehicle that might not have the build quality of a D3 (heated seats etc), but I'm afraid we must not forget that Land Rover is where it is today becuase of this old clunky beast. They are a fit for purpuse machine that will pull any cattle trailer covered in cow sh8t for alot longer than any other 4x4.

Don't misunderstand me. Heated seat is not a big deal at all - just an observation. I agree entirely about horses for courses. I love my new Defender and if I wanted a pretend 4x4 with concert hall stereo then I could have bought one. But it would have been wrecked in two years and only a fraction of the fun. I'm off to check my neighbours hill farm for him (while he's on holiday) right now. Guess which vehicle I'm taking....

Colin

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Fingers crossed I've not had any of the problems above bar the lack of noise at 80mph.

No heat problem even on the long high speed runs on French autoroutes.

I've now done 5,800 miles and it pulls fantastically as the engine has loosened up.

Its not been without niggles though (as I expected) and its in the dealers today to sort the following;

Rattle from the rear pads (there from new but I'd waited till it had something else to sort)

Front discs warped - appeared in France (judder when braking from 70mph) and confirmed by dealer in Nantes very effiently after a call to LR Assistance

Rear NS door central locking motor sticks on occasionally

And....

Poor underseal :rolleyes:

Hopefully it will be back tonight as I'm off to the Peterborough show first thing tomorrow and the 110 has space for the Oztent and the power connecter for the fridge.

I have a Freebie 2 HSE today with too many buttons and sunroofs.

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I drove one on Monday when I visited my old workplace. Had a demo one in with 1700 on the clock, took it for a long drive and the only fault I could find was a rattling heater fan. Not sure I like the dash but was otherwise impressed.

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Well Lancasters have just called and its ready to collect;

Rattle from the rear pads (there from new but I'd waited till it had something else to sort)

New rear pads have fixed this

Front discs warped - appeared in France (judder when braking from 70mph) and confirmed by dealer in Nantes very effiently after a call to LR Assistance

New discs and pads fitted

Rear NS door central locking motor sticks on occasionally

New motor on order

Plus new rear seat frame on order as they couldn't adjust the fold catch correctly and you can't get the catch on its own

And....

Poor underseal :rolleyes:

They agree with me and want to have for a couple of days to clean and thoroughly treat the underside.

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Other than that it's fine (he said, tempting fate) and a joy to drive.

Big mistake. Went to the beach yesterday since it was a lovely warm day. Now know that the air con is not working. It did work at first. I don't usually use it much, as I have the window down so my elbow...etc.

But it's definitely not working now, damn. Obligatory beach photo attached...

1344598777_a951636aa2.jpg

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Big mistake. Went to the beach yesterday since it was a lovely warm day. Now know that the air con is not working. It did work at first. I don't usually use it much, as I have the window down so my elbow...etc.

But it's definitely not working now, damn. Obligatory beach photo attached...

1344598777_a951636aa2.jpg

ac seems to have been a bit of a problem as with the abs sensors on some 07 models

dave h on land rover uk has ac -problems be waiting 7 weeks for a part ac valve

take it back get a loan freelander or disco and keep it until its fixed

by the way not all dealers will do under seal as land rover have confirmed that the poor finnish is ok :huh:

dan

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ac seems to have been a bit of a problem as with the abs sensors on some 07 models

dave h on land rover uk has ac -problems be waiting 7 weeks for a part ac valve

take it back get a loan freelander or disco and keep it until its fixed

I'll see what the dealer says about the A/C. No rush on my part as it's rarely that warm anyway.

Certainly don't want a Freelander or D3 - just gave them a D3 back.

Colin

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ABS light shoudl go out when you go over 8kph (5mph) will stay on until that speed is reached

Tim - does it still get hot with the windows closed around the transmission tunnel? my td5 gets really hot around the tunnel if a window is open as it draws the air up past the g box and heats the cab up! closed window means cooler and sore elbow.

i looked over 10 at work the other day and they all had carp underseal, (they also all had working ABS/TC etc)

anyone got any mpg figures for them yet?

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ABS light shoudl go out when you go over 8kph (5mph) will stay on until that speed is reached

Tim - does it still get hot with the windows closed around the transmission tunnel? my td5 gets really hot around the tunnel if a window is open as it draws the air up past the g box and heats the cab up! closed window means cooler and sore elbow.

i looked over 10 at work the other day and they all had carp underseal, (they also all had working ABS/TC etc)

anyone got any mpg figures for them yet?

I get 33>34mpg, Ive checked every tank in the last 6k and that's doing an 80mile round trip to work everyday!

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