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WOODEN GARAGE


muddydisco

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... but... How is that stuff gonna cope with a few tonnes of tools...? How deep would it have to be to hold up a decent sized milling machine? And, when all is said and done, would the milling machine genuinely appreciate having a warm bottom?

Don't see the problem, if you have a cast concrete floor.

Like I said we have it in our entire house, and the heating/ floor copes

well with full baths, gun safes (nearly 200Kg), and anything else you wish to

put on the floor. We have ssome friends that put it down in their double garage

and it still works.

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Al - I have a bit of surplus carpet here (it's from a cruise liner).

What benefit does it bring being from a cruise liner?

Water resistant for all of Als vapour!!!

Another big killer in the workshop is draughts, all at low level when your under a truck, putting a strip on the bottom of the door is good, or getting one of those old fashioned draught excluder snakes like everones nan used to have!

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I've been considering fitting better heating in my WS this year. At the moment I use Air Conditioning which cools as well as heats - and provides very efficient heating compared to just an electric heater - but not as good as a propane burner or wood stove.

How about using a wood stove with a flue heat exchanger such as this to provide radiated heat further away from the stove via one or more radiators.

You could even use an oil fired CH Boiler like this or solid fuel

Another option is just to run a regular (old) CH boiler on Propane. Our boiler at home runs cold to the touch which makes me think it could be housed in a box separate from the workshop (reduces fire & CO poisoning risk) with heavily insulated pipes linking the two together.

I had figured on fixing a couple of big radiators to the ceiling with a reflector behind to radiate down into the workshop. Any heat escaping upwards bu conduction will heat my office upstairs. Wall and floor space are at a bit of a premium! I guess I could get it to heat the metal work-bench - which might be nice!

Si

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like tight fitting cyclists leggings..........

or ladies tights!! :lol:

No, no Mr Finger - I'm looking for NEW ideas... :D [incidentally, i find stilletoes are good cos they lift you off the cold floor] :moglite:

Carpet sounds good Fridge - should fit exactly between where the tyres would be - given my vapour track-width and vapour-tyre size.

Thankfully there are actually some useful ideas in this thread despite my best efforts to hijack! Phew! :ph34r:

I'll be using a stirling engine to distribute heat for zero power (electrical). A backboiler using convection currents to a remote rad is a classic design from my narrowboat days. Great plan.

Al.

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Like I said we have it in our entire house, and the heating/ floor copes

well with full baths, gun safes (nearly 200Kg), and anything else you wish to

put on the floor.

Ok sure a full bath, but how about a couple of tonnes of milling machine, or a 1.5 tonne power hammer...? :unsure:

Al.

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I have a large sheet of ex-conveyor belt rubber by the workbench. About 6'x3'. i find it keeps your feet a bit warmer when standing there, helps to minimise damage if things inadvertently get knocked off the bench or fall from vice, and it also makes me feel a bit safer when welding in the damp (but probably psychological only)!

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I have a large sheet of ex-conveyor belt rubber by the workbench. About 6'x3'. i find it keeps your feet a bit warmer when standing there, helps to minimise damage if things inadvertently get knocked off the bench or fall from vice, and it also makes me feel a bit safer when welding in the damp (but probably psychological only)!

yerp i use conveyor belt in front of my bench wich seems to help with the numbness in the feet.

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Ok sure a full bath, but how about a couple of tonnes of milling machine, or a 1.5 tonne power hammer...? :unsure:

Al.

We have ssome friends that put it down in their double garage

and it still works.

Or 2.2 tonnes of Range Rover?

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Heated ceilings can work Si, not as good as the floor though

Heated ceilings

Worth considering I reckon if as you say you can benefit from the heat upstairs.

Will :)

As Will says you need to use radiant heating, because of the fabric and infiltration losses from most garages radiant heating is ideal as (most) of the heat is radiant only so not affected by the air moving, plus it will heat gently any surfaces (tools, workbench etc) and also the floor.

Its far cheaper to run than heating the entire space.

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OK. Back to the original point.

Timber is quick to build and if ply lined its reasonably secure. Insulate with Rockwool batts and use Tyvek breather paper on the outside. then either boards on battens or expanded metal on battens and render.

Insulation block walls are also a good bet. really cheap build if you can just paint them externally.

trussed rafter roofs are cheap as chips if you need slates/tiles for Planning reasons. Otherwise just purlins and sheet roofing is cheap.

Onduline roof sheets look pretty good and aren't mega money.

Skylights will gain you masses of solar heating if facing south and heat the structure when you aren't there.

Insulate the floor well, the slab will act as a big heat battery and keep the chill off (thats why sheep sleep on the road afterall)

Will :)

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We're too poor to afford fancy heating or insulation so we just wear more clothes. Except dirtydiesel who is protected by his wookie beard and survives in a T-shirt :huh:

Quite how heat dissapears through your boots is beyond me. Are you wearing moccasins or something? Try Riggers, they contain actual sheep to keep your feet toasty

During my days as a Fitter Turner in a cold drafty workshop I used corragated cardboarb inside my overalls.

One piece across my back and a piece across my chest.

When it got really cold I would add news paper to my boots.

At first my work mates took the mickey, but it was not long before they were all following my lead.

Give it a go and youll be snug as a bug and it wont cost you a penny.

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I thought what they do here in Greece is a good idea:

Make a mould of your walls using planks of wood, insert rebar or steel mesh, fill with concrete.

After you remove the mould you have very solid walls. Not sure what it would be like in the British climate - bloody freezing I expect! But you could probably add insulation as needed...

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I thought what they do here in Greece is a good idea:

Make a mould of your walls using planks of wood, insert rebar or steel mesh, fill with concrete.

After you remove the mould you have very solid walls. Not sure what it would be like in the British climate - bloody freezing I expect! But you could probably add insulation as needed...

or go the traditional route and use cob, dig up some decent subsoil, mix it with straw (not hay),water and a bit of dung as a plasticiser until you can roll it into a sausage in your hands then pile it up in a timber formwork a couple of feet at a time. Render with lime render, jobs a goodun ;)

Will :)

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Just wondering how many of you have wooden garages. Moving house soon so going for a big garage pictures wood be a great help and recommedations please

i have a fair size wooden work shop constructed by concreting 6 6x6 by 10ft posts in the ground then simply bracing them and cladding it made some very heath robinson trusses clad them with corragated sheets bought some very good flexible capping which done the ridge and sides all cost about £500 . regret not putting a row of blocks round the bottom mind you as it would stop vermin chewing there way in a little maybe

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Built this last year out of timber from trees we have felled for various reasons on development sites and back gardens etc.

Got a small portable, tow behind the Land Rover sawmill and made the framework and boards for the cladding.

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Biggest expense was the insulated sheets for the roof.

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