disco_al Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 my 200tdi does not want to warm up in the mornings, have changed the stat for a brand new one as well. the only way to get any heat is to blast down the main road at 60 for about 10 mins. left it ticking over this morning to defrost and it was barely warm. the gauge very rarely gets off the bottom of the scale, and even when it does hit the 1/4 mark after cruising for a while, it soon drops back down when i hit traffic. any ideas guys n gals? it's too cold to not have a heater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Attryde Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 At tickover it will probably take many hours to warm up (my 300TDi is the same however mine is up to normal on the gauge after about 2 miles of gentle driving.) most TDI's are over cooled as standard. Does it still have a viscous fan on it? If it does is it working correctly? ie. is it free with the engine cold and locked up with the engine at running temperature? Did you get the the correct temperature thermostat as there are a few different temperature ones (I don't know which one it should have.) If everything is ok I would try masking off an amount of the radiator to reduce the airfloe through it and seeing what happens. HTH Pete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 fit a engine block pre-heater on a timer set for 30 minutes before you want to leave got a Kenlowe on mine and it's instantly toasty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 fit a engine block pre-heater on a timer set for 30 minutes before you want to leave got a Kenlowe on mine and it's instantly toasty oops theres an echo in here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted December 11, 2007 Author Share Posted December 11, 2007 fan turns even when engine is cold, will check it lunchtime (if i get chance) to see what the resistance is like. i take it that it should turn quite easily when its cold? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Attryde Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 fan turns even when engine is cold, will check it lunchtime (if i get chance) to see what the resistance is like. i take it that it should turn quite easily when its cold? Yes, should have little resitance to turning by hand when cold, but will turn when the engine is running, and lots when the engine is upto normal temp (obviously stop the engine when it's warm before putting your hand anywhere near the fan ). In this weather, if you don't spend ages sat in traffic jams you could probably safely remove it and run with no fan. I replaced mine with an electric fan and it seemed to improve warm up times. Pete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T1G UP Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 slide a bit of cardboard down the front of the rad! cover 50-60% of it,not the intercooler, and see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RRX Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 Sounds very much like the viscous fan it locking on to early or worn out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
q-rover Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 Not neccesarily, I had problems over here during winter. ANything other than 75% throttle and the temp needle would start falling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comical Engineer Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 Not neccesarily, I had problems over here during winter. ANything other than75% throttle and the temp needle would start falling. Having just replaced mine on the 300tdi, it now reaches "normal" operating temp after about 5 miles, about the same as my Honda diesel on the same run. It also stays at normal with the heater on full temp and fan on 1 or 2. Correct thermostat is an 88°C one. With the previous stat, I needed to be on the motorway before it got into the normal zone. I would re-check the stat first. Then you could try blanking off half the radiator (as stated above, don't cover the intercooler as this will affect turbo performance). HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 Forget checking the thermostat, just change it and get a genuine one not a cheapy one - they only cost about a fiver and it is money well spent. I have never managed to identify a dodgy thermostat yet with the boiling water test but changing them always does the trick! They are often not working 100% after as little as a year but few people ever realise that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted December 11, 2007 Author Share Posted December 11, 2007 it is an 88 deg stat that i put in, may well get a genuine one (direct a/c with BM here) so will be nice and cheap. cheers all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted December 11, 2007 Author Share Posted December 11, 2007 have checked the viscous this lunchtime, and its nice and easy to turn by hand with the engine cold, so i don't think its that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted December 12, 2007 Author Share Posted December 12, 2007 well this morning checked the hoses when i got to work, and the top hose is still pretty cold, barely any warmth in it, so going to change the stat i think, see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrfarmer Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 88'c is the right one for winter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 all Tdi stats are 88 deg, the idea of having different ones for warm and cold weather stopped somewhere around the end of the S3's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted December 13, 2007 Author Share Posted December 13, 2007 have changed the stat for a land rover one, and it's still running cold. did have a small amount of warmth from it this morning, but only by the time i had got to work (10 miles @ average of about 30-40 mph), and it was barely enough to warm my hand. top hose had some warmth in it, as did the heater pipes, but, not enough to make you take your hand back off, i could have quite happily held them for ages before they got too warm to hold. water in the header tank was freezing cold, as was the bottom hose, could it be the rad is blocked? or even the water pump vanes disintegrated? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 I would have thought if the water pump was broken it would be boiling merrily... likewise if the rad blocked. Not sure what to suggest next Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 TDi's are over-cooled, I don't know anyone's that warms up ticking over, they all take a good blast at speed before they get warm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted December 13, 2007 Author Share Posted December 13, 2007 even after the cruise to work (first section is twisty lanes, so usually 3rd or 4th @ 2k rpm for 4 miles) it still isn't warm. was suggested to me earlier by one of our garage customers about the rad, as he had a 200tdi with a similar problem last year, rad was partially blocked causing it to not warm up (strange i know) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Attryde Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 Surely if the stat is doing it's job correctly the hoses to and from the rad are going to remain reasonably cool to the touch as if the engine temp does not reach the opening temp then it won't have opened thus there would be minimal hot water flowing to the radiator. A lack of heat from the heater could be down to an airlock in the heater pipes rather than a lack of heat from the engine, and the low temp gauge reading could be a faulty temp sender. Can you verify independantly the temperature of the water in the block? I would be inclined to try blanking off about half of the radiator (make sure you don't cover the intercooler) and seeing if it gets hotter. I also can't see how a blocked rad or failed pump would lead to a cooler running engine but stranger things have happened. Pete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted December 13, 2007 Author Share Posted December 13, 2007 when i took the stat out last night to replace it, the water that was on it "steamed" quite happily in the cold air (it had been sat for about 1/2 hour after getting home last night), although the water in the head was not that hot. i think i will leave it for now (getting too cold to be messing about outside again tonight, and i keep getting hassled about putting some decorations up ready for something happening next week) and have a look at the weekend instead. extra jumper in the morning for me i think Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comical Engineer Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 when i took the stat out last night to replace it, the water that was on it "steamed" quite happily in the cold air (it had been sat for about 1/2 hour after getting home last night), although the water in the head was not that hot. Raceface is correct here. Looking logically (with my pointy ears on): 1. Water pump isn't turning = very hot engine, cold heater, cold rad -> engine destruction from local overheating (usually accompanied by the smell of overheated engine oil) 2. Air lock in engine = engine gets very hot, rad might not, - engine destruction from local overheating (as above smell of hot oil) 3. Too much cooling = barely gets warm, runs ok generally 4. Air lock in heater = unusual for a Landie, but the engine should get warm as usual 4. Blockage in or kinked heater hose = engine normal, cold in cabin, but temp gauge should read normal I think that your pump is working ok, otherwise you'd have boiled the engine by now and probably warped the cylinder head. Check the temperature of the radiator, thermostat hose area and the engine block after a run. The engine block should be quite hot after a few miles. With my stat stuck open I only got up past the "C" mark on the motorway. So.... Silly question time: How long have you had the beast? It's not had some idiot modifying the cooling circuit by bypassing the thermostat? You have filled it to the brim via the plastic bleed cap on top of the thermostat housing? Also check that the rad is full (another plastic bleed cap) and that the expansion tank is filled to the correct level. (I know, I know but just asking!) HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted December 13, 2007 Author Share Posted December 13, 2007 had her just over a month now, all hoses are in the right areas as far as i can tell (it all looks normal anyway). was filled using the filler in the top of the rad (no filler in the 200tdi stat housing) and the tank level appears to be fine. the only time i see the gauge move is when it's on a long run, last week when we went to coventry it was lovely and warm, i even had to turn the slider down a bit. i may disconnect the heater hoses later and try to back flush it, just in case of a blockage. which hose is the inlet btw? if all else fails i will drain the system at the weekend, and refill it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comical Engineer Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 Got to say, definitely sounds like too much cooling rather than too little! Also sounds like your sender is working. My temp gauge settles down to just below the horizontal (about 8.30) position when fully warm. It used to get up there after about 10 miles on the motorway before I changed the stat and then when we came off the M-way it would drop back to the "C". Now stays put at normal with the 88°C stat fitted. Can you post a photo of the engine bay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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