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vapour build


watson

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hi

im building up a vapour build that in the next few years may materialise

so heres what i thought

90 chassis

r380 gearbox with 300tdi to get the engine as far back as possible

90 cab

tubular front with removeable pannels

tubular rear tub with removeable pannels

2 e.p9`s one front one back

ia mix of suspension parts

now hers the question do i put portles on it, ive got access to some mog axles but i was talking to someone on here the other day and we were wondering wether they are worth the hassel

opinions please

watson

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If you want the engine as far back as possible then you'll be needing an LT77 gearbox or the rare short bell housing R380.

Mo

how strong is the lt77

also how rare is the r380 with a short bell housing

also how good are the 300tdi`s in competition use??

watson

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If you use the 200Tdi prop shafts with the R380 gear box the motor will sit somewhere in between where you would find a

std 200 on Lt77 and 300 on R380 if that helps.

300Tdi is perfectly good for most UK style comps.

As for Portals, No body can tell you that, Its purely personal choice. I would only (am considering infact) use them with some chassis mods to keep articulation as I have it now (not brilliant but enough and stable) without gaining any height over a 2" lifted truck on std axles. Take a look at Alan Kemps, Looks just right, only an inch or so higher than my truck but running portals, if I can get mine to sit like his on portal axles then I will be happy. My main focus If I do change will be to move spring mounts, bump stops etc up as much as possible so I can keep it low on the portals and use upward movement to keep decent articulation (I.E. so the axle still has spring pressure) rather than the axle articulation relying on it dislocating which is a waste of time (Opp's, another can of worms opened)

Also remember you will gain width using portals, so it depends what events you plan on doing and in my humble opinion there is no way you can run them without a disc conversion.

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my main objective is to have the engine as fsr back as possible so i can decrease any cvhance of unnecacery over hang on the front

i heard that to put a set of mogaxles on a landy is slightly cheaper than running ashcrofts and arb`s, also does the portles increase the risk of snapping an axle off due to the twist the generate??

watson

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You could keep the engine mounts where they are and put the rad in the back along with the intercooler and then run kenlowe fans on both.

Mog axles are very strong so on land rovers I wouldn't have thought that they should break. But they are also very heavy, and one of the killers in challenge trucks is the weight side :huh:

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You could keep the engine mounts where they are and put the rad in the back along with the intercooler and then run kenlowe fans on both.

Mog axles are very strong so on land rovers I wouldn't have thought that they should break. But they are also very heavy, and one of the killers in challenge trucks is the weight side :huh:

hi rhys

thats something i have considered with the rad and fans but then it reduces what little storage space you have at the back and maby more vonerable

i heard there wasnt alot of weight difference

watson

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200 and 300 engines are very similar length. The LT77 box is fine, The R380 is without doubt a better stronger box but with the power of either TDi (even uprated) it will cope fine if you find a later (think its H suffix) box which is what I and a lot of the other challenge trucks are running.

Even with the longer R380 if you use a pair of 200TDi props it will still give enough room to move the rad back and keep the winch tucked in. Biggest issue with this is the steering box being in the way means you have to place the rad behind the intercooler so you can move it to the left of the vehicle and clear the steering box.

Mog axles are very very heavy and very strong.

Not sure if they work out cheaper than ashcrofts, depends how much fab you can do yourself. They (in my opinion) must have a disk brake conversion. You need to change the diff offset to suit a landrover, which involves cutting the ends off the axle and swapping them then setting them up right to get the steering geometry right. Then you have to buy a special half shaft to allow the front locker to work once they are modified. None of this is rocket science and straight forward enough if you can fabricate a bit but certainly time consuming. Some people I believe make them a narrower track also. Ive not done any myself, This is just info ive picked up while looking into portals myself.

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My Disco 200 on a Defender LT77 puts the engine back behind the axle. I have over 12" of open space I could move the rad into

...but you'd have to remove a corner of your radiator or do without a steering box.

(well, if you have a proper tdi radiator i suppose you could flip the handing of the rad and move the intercooler up front)

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...but you'd have to remove a corner of your radiator or do without a steering box.

(well, if you have a proper tdi radiator i suppose you could flip the handing of the rad and move the intercooler up front)

You have to tuck the rad behind the intercooler, Then you can move it over to the left and avoid the box!

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Or use a later rad (300) with both rad pipes on the left I found this worked well on mine.

Also I was planning to move both the pipes on my std intercooler from the middle to the left hand side (when I can be bothered to put a new gas reg on the tig that is) to make way for some stuff. About an hour ago I was sat drinking tea with Pikey and he tells me the 300tdi intercooler has both pipes on the left the same as the radiator! He is some use after all!

A quick look through Eblag and bingo, 300tdi intercooler, £15, What a brilliant day :D

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i heard that to put a set of mogaxles on a landy is slightly cheaper than running ashcrofts and arb`s, also does the portles increase the risk of snapping an axle off due to the twist the generate??

Snapping an axle or snapping a halfshaft? Neither is likely. Mogs are much stronger than anything LR, even uprated, although obviously more faff to fit and you will want a disc conversion on it.

Fitting portals does increase spring-wrap on leaf-sprung vehicles but since you already have radius arms etc. on coilers it's not an issue that I'm aware of.

Mogs weigh as much as a supertanker captained by John Prescott and his pie collection, so there's a trade-off there - you're looking at ~250kg per axle from memory. Having ~50cm clearance under the diffs also helps make up for the weight. It's a compromise - sometimes an SJ will get through where you can't because it doesn't weigh as much, but that's life. You can console yourself by digging half-metre deep ruts for the SJ to get stuck in somewhere else :lol:

Also be aware Mogs (and Volvos etc. for that matter) are lower geared than Rover axles, around 7:1 for Mogs I think, so you need to be thinking about tyre size, choice, and gear ratios before you commit.

I was going to say for an all-purpose truck that may do lots of miles or expeditions portals may be overkill, but then I'm driving a truck that's an all-purpose truck and does a few miles and hopefully expeditions, and is running portals... :rolleyes:

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Snapping an axle or snapping a halfshaft? Neither is likely. Mogs are much stronger than anything LR, even uprated, although obviously more faff to fit and you will want a disc conversion on it.

Fitting portals does increase spring-wrap on leaf-sprung vehicles but since you already have radius arms etc. on coilers it's not an issue that I'm aware of.

Mogs weigh as much as a supertanker captained by John Prescott and his pie collection, so there's a trade-off there - you're looking at ~250kg per axle from memory. Having ~50cm clearance under the diffs also helps make up for the weight. It's a compromise - sometimes an SJ will get through where you can't because it doesn't weigh as much, but that's life. You can console yourself by digging half-metre deep ruts for the SJ to get stuck in somewhere else :lol:

Also be aware Mogs (and Volvos etc. for that matter) are lower geared than Rover axles, around 7:1 for Mogs I think, so you need to be thinking about tyre size, choice, and gear ratios before you commit.

I was going to say for an all-purpose truck that may do lots of miles or expeditions portals may be overkill, but then I'm driving a truck that's an all-purpose truck and does a few miles and hopefully expeditions, and is running portals... :rolleyes:

hi fridge

thankyou for the advice

i dont think i will put portles on it seems big tyres and low diff ratios and lockers in landy axles is my best bet at the moment

when i said about the axles braking i ment them braking of not the cassing braking

thankyou

watson

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what tyres are fravourite for a challenge truck i was thinking about going with a simex, irok super swampers or the interco super swamper boggers

also for suspension i was thinking x-springs on the rear with ome dampers and lowered shock mounts with ome springs and dampers on the front , qt trailing arms and standard radius arms

watson

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Indeed, and shock towers and all sorts of other stuff too, Gwyn is a good bloke, knows his stuff.

I can second that. Have bought challenge parts off him and have been so pleased with the way he treats his customers and the quality of his products, I am going to be ringing him up tomorrow and ordering a pair of his trailing arms :)

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I think I am right in saying that the later 300tdi auto's had the electronic module, so can be chipped +15bhp so thats a bonus over the manuals, but they are a little sluggish.

A 100" wb is better for the steeper inclines and decents but a 90" wb is better through tight and twisty sections.

Personal preference I would say :)

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