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Raising front seat height 90 300tdi?


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I am guessing that the seat position was set for 1950's height man (or more probably not given much thought) anyhoo being a bit over 6 foot, old and with shot knees, I was wondering if anyone knows the best way to adjust the seat height?

Ideally a scissor lift type affair would be the best option but being a tight arse, I was thinking of using either 2 lengths of box section or 4 blocks (being cheaper still :rolleyes:) of said box section as a spacer?

If any of you have any suggestions / experience of raising the seat or importantly of people who have been maimed/ killed :blink: in doing so, could you please let me know.

Cheers PPL

Seth

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Box section is one way, or you can get a set of MUD rails which raises the seat and gives you more travel so it will go back further. The extra height means the seat can clear the bolt-together lips on the bodywork that stop defender seats from going back any further.

If you have a hard top you will need to remove the top (or all) of the bulkhead to get the most from the extra travel.

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You're thinking along the lines of the Mud-stuff seat rails, see here, the site seems to be down, that's the google cache of the page.

Although Mud rails aren't box section, you could replicate the same idea pretty easily using some box section of your choice, or buy the mud rails. :)

EDIT: Sorry guys, we were all replying at the same time, obviously, i was the slowest!

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Mud rails worked perfectly for me (6'4") and I don't need to push the seats right back. Easy to fit as well but remember to phone them and tell them what sort of seat bolts you have (there are different types used).

If you have a bulkhead you may not be able to push the seats right back though. You might also want to raise cubby box if you use it as an arm rest.

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As the site is down you can see them here.

http://www.devon4x4.com/component/option,c...showcaticons,no

As a fitter in the Army I used to cover quite a lot of miles in Landys, at 6ft this used to cuase me a lot of knee pains. I tryed a ffew options to get comfertable from two seat cusions to lumps of wood under the seat base. The permanant solution was a couple of lenghts of box steel between the runners and the seat box. This just lifted the seat enought to get me back and up a bit making a lot of diference. Some one once told me the Landrovers were built to fit a standard shape farmer :huh: He must have been a funny shape.

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Mud Rails: http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/MUD_Seat_Rails.html

Although their site isn't loading for me.. Google's cache got it:

http://64.233.183.104/search?q=cache:i9YGe...;cd=1&gl=uk

I thought it was down but this other domain works fine, must be a DNS problem from the other domain name. I have just picked up my defender and will be ordering a set of Mudrails tomorrow (and a bulkhead removal bar)

If they had online ordering I would have already bought them!

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I just have some heavy wall tube, 22mm tall as spacers below my rails.

Works well for me at 187cm and mostly legs. I need to have the seat at full rear adjustment, but tend to think that any further back I'd be too far from the steering wheel. Also tend to think that just raising the adjuster rails may give you more rearward adjustment, but have never bothered checking this was the case.

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the mudstuff rails lift the seat runners just enough so they clear the lip at the rear of the seatbox, gives lots more rear adjustment on a 110SW with no centre bulkhead, in a 90 or 110 with the bulkhead you'll still gain a few inches of travel.

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I've just fitted the MUD rails and bulkhead top removal bar today...

This thread reminded me, I've had them for a month or two.

All I can say is WOW, what a difference. My knee is no longer touching the light switch. (which I bent up a bit when I bought the 90 as it was digging into my knee.)

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I'd say jack ur seat up with a load of washers first and drive around for a few days altering the height.

I'm only 6ft 1 un a bit, and i decided that i needed to raise the seat cos i was getting a bad knee when pressing the clutch.

Raised seat only about 10mm and it felt like i was driving in the clouds and just didn't feel right. Can't describe it, it just was awful. you'll know what i mean when you try it for a few days.

Then lowered the seat about 5mm and still wasn't quite happy so put it back to where i started.

Altered the clutch instead.

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Horses for courses I'd say.

If you are tall with shorter legs jacking the seat up will put pressure on the undersides of your legs eventually restricting blood flow and causing pain. In which case it might be worth checking out seats with more positions (buckets?) or perhaps lifting the rear slightly more than the front. Penny washers save us again...

If you're tall with long legs and arms then Mud Rails or equivalent will move the seat up and back giving a more comfortable position (assuming no bulkhead).

Still if it doesn't hurt it can't be a Defender. Any cure for wide shoulders?

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Having driven with the mud rails (and top of the bulkhead off) tonight for 90 minutes I have come across 3 things that I need to alter to make it perfect.

1. Can't reach the handbrake easily. (did a search on this: need a disco handbrake mounted on the top of the seatbox)

2. Because leg is not at 90 degrees to the floor now I need a foot rest to the side of the clutch pedal. Yes there is room !

3. Shoulder rubs the seatbelt between the spool and pivot. Over a period of time this will cause a sore shoulder.

Any ideas for 2 or 3 ?

For three I was thinking a shorted mounting bolt for the seatbelt pivot or changing the passenger and drivers brackets around.

I don't want to change back, it's a much better position and my knees don't hurt anymore after commuting through the London traffic.

Richard

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You can always fit Range Rover Classic seats? They are height adjustable and fit straight in and are normally very cheap on a certain auction site..... I have them in mine and they are great. Cost was £10.

Tj

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Excellent help everyone. :lol:

As the mud rails site was down at the time and thanks to your advice, I bought some box section and a couple of bolts.

FYI

I used 8mm bolts, 2x 75mm and 2 x 50mm and 35 x 20 x 1.5 metre box section, which was more than enough prob 1 metre is enough but please measure first just in case)

I cut two lengths of section approx .5 metre long, I drilled 9 mm holes (to give a little tollerence) using the seat base as a guide.

I lifted the rear end of the seat by putting a short (drilled) section of the box section underneath the new length, to give double the height at the back and bolted down through both sections with the 75mm length bolts.

This way I kept the front lower to allow my legs under the steering wheel easily (a few washers were also required).

Before final assembly I painted the box section with hammerite (and the seat, seat base and the metal plate that fits over the hole under the seat :rolleyes: ), greased the seat runners and bolted them all back in place, I even gave the seat covers a scrub :o

It was a little fiddly and you have to saw and drill stuff, but not too much effort overall, prob about 3 hours, not inc paint drying time.

Driving position is now excellent, I can reach the hand brake ok, cost about £15 (not inc hammerite).

Box section, washers or see Kev from Mud Rails it is up to you! but if you are over five foot six and want to be able to drive for longer than 20 mins then they're a must.

Once again thanks to all that posted and I hope this is of help to others.

Seth

Cough.. No warranty as to saftey given :o:ph34r: .

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