Les Henson Posted April 20, 2008 Share Posted April 20, 2008 I'm thinking of making a rear crossmember - same shape - ish as a normal one, just stronger, thicker metal, and better quality with no unnecessary cavities or holes. Has anyone got any tips or better still - pictures please? Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bell-Auto-Services Posted April 20, 2008 Share Posted April 20, 2008 See porny on this forum , he has some made up . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WALFY Posted April 20, 2008 Share Posted April 20, 2008 A mate in Kent made 1. But it was a bit of overkill. I'll call him tomorrow and see if he has any pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Train Posted April 20, 2008 Share Posted April 20, 2008 In the past my first route would probably be to get a length of rolled steel channel of around the right dimensions and about 10mm thick and then cut away the bits to get the shape. The missing web can then be welded back in place to make the channel continuous. The bit between the chassis members can be boxed in with more 10mm plate. This may be a little on the heavy side for most uses but wheelie bars shouldn't be needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted April 20, 2008 Share Posted April 20, 2008 I've not made mine yet, but i am going to - everybody's got to have some vapour. 160x80x4 box section, with the ends cut out, bent up and rewelded to the same angled profile as a standard one. I'll plate the ends up as well. drop some tubes in for tow ball bracket, and those needed for my mantec wheel carrier, and pretty much leave it at that, I don't need anymore holes for mud flaps, jacking socket etc I'll probably make some chassis extensions from 3mm plate, and probably let them through the box section. some off-cuts of the corners of the box section to make the tub brackets, an exhaust hanger to make. I looked at the cost of a 6m length, it was about 100 quid i think. If you could make three and sell the other two, that's pretty reasonable. Shouldn't this be in tools and fab? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbarton Posted April 20, 2008 Share Posted April 20, 2008 Many years ago I fabricated one out of angle iron, plate and rsj. I boxed in some RSJ with plate for the legs, welded these into the cut-off chassis and built the rest round the ends of these legs in-situ rather than make the rear member of the vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landrover598 Posted April 20, 2008 Share Posted April 20, 2008 I had a stock looking one made when i built the hybrid. I had a local engineering firm supply and bend up a bit of good quality 2mm plate for £25, I then added the internal gussets and tubes, back plates and rail extensions. No mud traps, and far stonger and cheaper than a standard one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted April 20, 2008 Author Share Posted April 20, 2008 I was waiting for someone to mention an RSJ - HFH actually I was thinking of the same shape as original, but out of perhaps 4mm plate and all the cavities blanked off. No unnecessary holes etc - except where the pipe will exit on the passenger side - close to the chassis rail. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbarton Posted April 20, 2008 Share Posted April 20, 2008 Because I used 1/4 inch plate I didn't bother making a box, it was effectively 'C' section, much easier to keep clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted April 20, 2008 Author Share Posted April 20, 2008 Isn't 2mm thinner than original? I thought they were 2.2mm Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted April 20, 2008 Share Posted April 20, 2008 Les, I'd make it out of 5mm and leave the channel open except for where your towing bracketry is going where it needs to be boxed to spread the load. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tractorboy16 Posted April 20, 2008 Share Posted April 20, 2008 Hi, Yes i made one about 2 years ago for my series when that one went to pot, When i broke my series up i cut it off and it is now fitted to my hybrid, It is made out of 8mm u channel, and bugger me its strong!!!! i cut a v out of it, bent it and re-welded, my best welding as well when i made it!!!! it now has some extra ends on it like the devon 4x4 one does and some extra suports to the corners as that is where i bent my series one, however if i ever bend it i will be in a very serious problem i think with the rest of the truck!!!! here are a fer pics, my future plan is to cut out one of the lips at the top and a whole and fit a 8274 once funds alow and iv got some more experience. tried to find some pics of me making it but there on my old computer. James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tractorboy16 Posted April 20, 2008 Share Posted April 20, 2008 Forgot to say, my recovery points are bolted in and there is a plate welded on the inside which can just about be seen in photo 3 which is directly in the middle of the 4 bolts so that the weight is spread out either side of them. it just happen's to be the place that the bend starts as well which is the real reason that i welded this part in. What i would say is that this rear xmember is the easiest to clean in the world, its not like the boxed ones where mud just sits and then starts to rust. would never fit any other type, iv got a brand new series one rusting away in the garden but would only want this type now. iv been more than happy with it and a few friends have started using same design to now. James Jusr remembered also. I have platted the chassis all the way back to the spring relocation mounts to suport this bumper so that the weight is also spread out rather than just fixing it to a flimsy bit of chassis which could just bend there so its strenghened all the way to the spring and where there is another X-member in the chassis in the middle of the rear floor pan. pic shows the first new plate to spring and then the extra one which was also fitted so in theory its been plated 3 times, original chassis, new whole plate to spring retainter and then final top plate!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Train Posted April 20, 2008 Share Posted April 20, 2008 James You see, that is how a crossmember should be made! It just needs the rest of the chassis to be built likewise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted April 21, 2008 Share Posted April 21, 2008 i made mine from 5mm sheet, internal stiffeners and cradle at the same time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted April 21, 2008 Share Posted April 21, 2008 I'd start with a length of box section, and taper the ends like luke said, if you wanted to really show off you could do it in stainless and use it as an air/water/hydraulic reservoir too B) B) B) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Woodward Posted April 21, 2008 Share Posted April 21, 2008 I made mine from a piece of 1/4 thick steel I found at work. Bumpers made from the ends of a front bumper. Removable drop plate for towing fits on the bottom with 2 x 3/4 dia pins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted April 21, 2008 Share Posted April 21, 2008 Mine like thew rear of my chassis is made from box, 5mm wall, its about 100x50 i think. In place. Its stronger than the origanol but not so strong it bends the rest of the chassis Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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