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Convert 10" to 11" Front brakes.


RobotMan

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I'm looking to convert my front brakes to 11" from the standard 10" set up. I have a selection of parts in my collection. I have a set of 109" 4 cylinder kit to include stub axle, back plate, hub, drum, shoes and cylinders. I also have a complete Stage 1 front axle.

Firstly can I just pull the axle apart and just switch the backplate and drum over or do I need to swap the whole stub axle and hub over, hopefully the former to save me chewing on with the bearings.

Also which would be the best option the standard 2 1/4" wide 11" set-up or the 3" V8(6 cylinder/1 tonne) stuff. Would you recommend I also add the 11" drums to the rear or just stick to 10"?

This being for my 88" 200Tdi soft top which already has the Servo/Dual circuit master cylinder and pipework in place.

I haven't actually had a look at the V8 axle too closely yet but I bought it cheap enough not to worry too much about it as long as I can salvage some bits from it. I won't be fitting the exotic stuff to mine but I will probably sell the internals off later on.

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Just swap backplates & drums.

Rover kept the 10 inch brakes on the rear, but fitted larger slaves, ie the same ones as on the original front brakes, so just swap them over.

I suspect the V8 brakes may be a bit keen for an 88.

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Cheers, I didn't know they had changed the cylinders on the back during the rationalisation, never noticed they where a different cylinder front to back lol.

I tend to agree the V8 brakes are a massive jump up, I'll see how the stock 11"'s go then.

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I fitted the 3'' V8/ 1ton 11'' twin leading shoes to a 2a 88 with aV8 I built back n early seventies, fantastic in the dry , but a bit lethal in the wet, had to remeber to take it easy with them or the fronts locked up .

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I have 11''x3'' up front and 11x 2 1/4'' rear on my 2a with standard swb master cylinder and no power assist and they work very well on a rig weighing 2.2 tons on 36'' tyres. I replaced the rear 1 1/4'' wheel cylinders with 1'' jobs to reduce rear wheel locking. This also reduced the frequency of brake adjustments that the smaller m/cyl dictates. If you have the opportunity to use stage one components, do so as they use a better hub seal and the oil catcher rings on the backing plates prevent axle oil from leaking onto the brake shoes.

Bill.

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I fitted the 11x3 brakes from a 6 cyl Land Rover on the front of the 6x6 and had the four sets of standard LWB Sailsbury brakes on the rears with a series 3 servo. I was able to lock up all the wheels with 3 1/2 tons travelling at 30mph on Firestone SATs. Was a bit noisy though with six sets of rubber sliding on dry tarmac.

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I was planning to do this on my (now sold) early 88" SIII which had the standard 10" single circuit non servo set up on both axles. When Land Rover rationalised the braking set up on 88" and 109" in the late 1970s/early '80s they moved to dual circuit, servo assisted master cylinder plus just using the LWB 11" dual leading shoe on the front axle and using the same front 10" axle set up previously used on the SWBs on the rear axle. This used the narrower front shoes and was not the set up with the wide shoes (from the 6 cylinder models?) which was potentially more powerful.

Most important when planning a brake upgrade like this is to match the master cylinder to the wheel cylinders. Given that Land Rover carefully designed and tested the relationship between servo and non servo and between master and slave cylinders on the various different set ups my recommendation would be to use one of the the set ups that they used in production.

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I was planning to do this on my (now sold) early 88" SIII which had the standard 10" single circuit non servo set up on both axles. When Land Rover rationalised the braking set up on 88" and 109" in the late 1970s/early '80s they moved to dual circuit, servo assisted master cylinder plus just using the LWB 11" dual leading shoe on the front axle and using the same front 10" axle set up previously used on the SWBs on the rear axle. This used the narrower front shoes and was not the set up with the wide shoes (from the 6 cylinder models?) which was potentially more powerful.

Most important when planning a brake upgrade like this is to match the master cylinder to the wheel cylinders. Given that Land Rover carefully designed and tested the relationship between servo and non servo and between master and slave cylinders on the various different set ups my recommendation would be to use one of the the set ups that they used in production.

I fitted standard 4 cyl 109" 11" fronts to my 88". Just swapped backplates and drums. You can then fit the old front cyls to the rear existing 10" brakes to prevent wheel locking (fronts 1.25" bore, rear 1" bore on 10" drums). I fitted a 109" master cyl. No servo and works brillantly. This was the "late" 88" factory fit. Its not even a days work...

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No servo and works brillantly.

Unlike the 10" brakes the 11" brakes are twin leading shoe so both shoes 'self servo' when you are going forwards - but the reverse is true when going backwards!

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