Jump to content

Combined Oil for Gear and Transfer Boxes


Recommended Posts

After my newly rebuilt R380 Gearbox threw a bearing, more than likley due to excesive heat. I'm fitting an external Oil cooler, this then got me thinking about using the same type of Oil (pref Syn) in both the Gearbox (R380) and Transfer (LT230) Boxes. Since refitting the gearbox I have noticed both get hot even under light load.

If I can run the same oil I could then modify the transfer box so as both boxes were connected via an external Electric Oil pump, a proper Oil filter and Cooler, enabling both boxes to stay cool and clean.

Has anyone heard of this been done, and if so what type of oil would you suggest is used.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't, the main gearbox has a built in oil pump. use only ATF or MTF94 fluid, it won't last long running on EP90 the pump cannot cope with the heavier grade oil, & only use the EP90 in the transferbox, both boxes have different requirements to allow for bearing & gear loading & if the incorrect oil is used they won't last very long resulting in more bigger expense when they go bang.

a oil cooler for the main gearbox is a good move if your doing a lot of heavy towing or in hot climates.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Western; That's the reason for fitting an external pump (ebay item# 270235102497), as for oil there are new blends, (for want of a better description) of oils that cover the requirements of both ATF and EP90. Besides the external pump can more than cope with a higher viscosoty oil oil.

Silvio; I have seen these before. There is one that even has a built-in pump.

Please keep the suggesstions/comments coming

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry, but I see no point in fitting an "in-built" pump in the transfer: the pump must be part of the gearbox design, the shafts must have oil galleys and all the rest to convey the oil in the required places. The LT 230 was designed just for splash lubrication.

As for the R380, LR makes an external thermostat housing with provision for an external circuit, which can be connected to a radiator. Td5 defenders marketed outside Europe come with this external circuit as standard fitting; Ashcroft supplied a kit with all the required parts to retrofit a european market defender.

post-8482-1211318275_thumb.jpg post-8482-1211318293_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I understand what you are saying, about the lack of design within the LT230, and one LR make is nothing more than a splash type pump.

The primary purpose of mine, would be to cool the oil, however depending on where I fit the return I could maximise the "splash" effect.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not aware of any oil grade that would cope with the requirements of both boxes. It would still have to be thin enough to avoid strain on the 380s internal pump whatever the external pump could cope with.

Even if you found one, with what you're suggesting you may have trouble balancing the return flow to each box. You could end up emptying one box and overfilling the other.

I'd use the standard L/R 380 pipework to a bigger cooler element, leave the 230 as is, and use good quality synthetic oil to the correct spec' for each box.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I fitted a gearbox oil cooler after my first trip to southen Africa to reduce the heat from the seatbox area. A proper oil radiator. It didn't make any difference on our next trip.

A year ago I bought an X-Brake from Simon. That combined with the removal of the exhaust center box reduced most of the heat from the seatbox area.

My thoughts on this was that the handbrake drum produces a lot of heat which is then thrown forward towards the front of the vehicle by the brake drum.

Worth a thought ??

mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So they did start making the sump extensions in Italy then Silvio? We have stopped selling them now as the guy who cast them decided he wanted double the money. At least I fitted one before that happened. We are considering making fabricated steel ones out of laser cut bits. Sounds a bit too much like hard work for us to me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes Jim, your thread about the bigger sump raised a lot of interest among the african travellers in Africaland, so as soon as the Post gently decided to ship me the sump I was practically forced to send it over to Turin, in a foundry shop, where it was measured, X-rayed et cetera et cetera and a copy has been prepared.

For clearance and simplicity reasons the extra fins were deleted.

However, I fear it hasn'tbeen a big deal, as the cost of preparing the mould for casting was remarkable, and I doubt that the forum chairman, who organized this reproducting affair, managed to get his money back fully.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you can run a full synthetic 75W-90 like Torco RTF or Motul Gear 300 in both without a problem.

Both these oils are dual rated GL-4/5 so are safe for yellow metals and have a robust EP package, and the Motul is thinner at 0*C than Castrol Syntrans 75W-85 that is commonly used in Australia to replace MTF94, as Gear 300 has a VI of 222.

FWIW, no gearbox rebuilder in Australia will honour warranty if an ATF is used in an R380. At a minimum, most specify a 75W-80 MTF fluid like VMX-80

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy