silvio Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 Sam. that one is a three legs puller: you need one with two legs, obviously set at 180°, to grab the two lugs on the drop arm. Here a couple of alternatives, but far more expensive, though : http://shop.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/Bushwacka_Tools.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 ok, i'm going to have a go at this tonight.I'm going to buy this puller - anyone got one, is it likely to fall apart? it's the only one local which I can find.... Thanks I got a 10 ton 2/3 leg puller bearing separator on ebay. They all seem to use the same central hydraulic piece and work well. Alternatively, a pitman puller works well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Coombes Posted June 26, 2008 Author Share Posted June 26, 2008 there is this but i didn't know if it would be tough enough? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hairyone Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 there is this but i didn't know if it would be tough enough? I changed my drop-arm ball joint a few weeks ago and though it would be easier if I could remove the drop ram. I tried a small 4" puller like the one above, the end of the arms broke off. I then tried a bashing the lugs from above with a 3ft 1" dia. steel bar and 4lb sledge hammer, which slipped off the lugs every other hit and it's quite tiring holding the 3ft bar, a 4lb sledge and balancing on the bumper and then having to move the steering from lock to lock to reach the lugs every other go. I was also worried that the downward forces on the internals would eventually damage something. But the lugs can just about be reached even with power steering but I couldn't get a good vertical position so the blows were always slightly oblique with a sideways force component. I gave up and bought a 6" puller which was unable to get a good grip on the now battered lugs ... I could wind up the tension but it would always slip off at the wrong moment even after the lugs were filed flat again. Fortunately I was able to change it in-situ but I did consider buying the hydraulic puller but I reckon you need something like the pitman puller above with some form of slotted disc or bearing puller that can slip over the top of the arm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Coombes Posted June 26, 2008 Author Share Posted June 26, 2008 ok, so this really is a b*tch. I've tried pulling, wacking, blood sweat and tears, but it won't budge. I've rang a local garage, they have the tools if I can get it to them - it's about 4 miles away, but with no steering, i've no idea how to get it there? I cant believe something so simple can be so difficult to get off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J@mes Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 rather than buying the tools can you not just take the box out and take it to a machine shop? theres a guide on here for how to get it out and it doesnt look too hard (famous last words). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Coombes Posted June 26, 2008 Author Share Posted June 26, 2008 famous last words lol! Depends how hard / easy that would be. I'm carp at purging, bleeding, and being patient!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J@mes Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 looks like a couple of hours work to remove and replace - i will be doing it next week on my disco, and as the new PAS box doesn't come with a drop arm attached, I will be taking it to a machine shop to have the old one removed! you probably spend the same amount of time leathering it with a hammer as it would take to remove and replace it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 If you are having a hard time of removing the drop arm with the box on the vehicle - remove it and use the bar/hammer method. One whack either side is a lot more effective than several on each side. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Coombes Posted June 27, 2008 Author Share Posted June 27, 2008 thanks Les, think i'll have a go tonight at removing the box. It's connecting all the bits back up and bleeding it after which i'll probably fudge up! hey ho - all part of the fun i suppose!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted June 27, 2008 Share Posted June 27, 2008 Bleeding is an absolute doddle, just make sure that you do not allow any foreign matter into the hydraulics when you put it back together. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted June 27, 2008 Share Posted June 27, 2008 I've done this a couple of times on my old defender, first time was a bitch as it had been on there since new. We got it off by putting a 10-tonne hydraulic puller on it, winding it up then leaving it to stand, after a while we just tapped it with a small hammer all around, we kept this up for about 10 mins, then the drop arm pinged off.... i've known people bust hydraulic presses doing this job, and end up completely trashing the steering box output shaft splines... not fun, but i reckon technique is as important as brute force... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Coombes Posted June 27, 2008 Author Share Posted June 27, 2008 thanks, i'm going to put the puller back on tonight, and leave it for a bit - hour or so? See what happens. I've caked it with WD40 this morning to get the carp out, that may help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted June 27, 2008 Share Posted June 27, 2008 I am not sure that leaving it will have any effect. You might try winding up the tension and then hitting the back of the arm hard with a steel hammer. The idea being that you can deform the hole in the arm and off it pops. I never did manage to get the arm off the one on my 90, I just had to fit a new arm when I changed the steering box. Note to Orange: Don't worry, the new one is on just tight enough and with a whole load of grease! Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Coombes Posted June 27, 2008 Author Share Posted June 27, 2008 it seems you're right - cant budge it. For the time being, I've put the balljoint back together just so it has some steering. I suppose I'll have to either get the garage (Brooklyn 4x4) to have a look, or get a new steering box to put the new arm on (which should also get rid of the play in the steering)? How much would a recon box be? Thanks for all the help and advice, I suppose at least it is kind of driveable for now!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuddyWinny Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 First, apologies for the blurred pictures; I took them in a bit of a hurry at the weekend. My droparm. The rubber boot isn't going to stay on that lip. The metal ring: This looks better (when it's finally pressed on properly) I'd say that my drop arm has seen better days but for the price of a kit from paddock I'll give it a go. I think the kit is from Bearmach. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Coombes Posted June 30, 2008 Author Share Posted June 30, 2008 cheers mate, you've managed to get your drop arm off. Also, my lip is in a far worse condition!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silvio Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 Though I do not need to touch the drop arm yet, as everything still seem to be OK so far, I decided to consider fabricating a suitable tool for removing it, in the future, should the need come! I did not consider the possibility of spending a lot of money buying a ready-made tool for a price very near to half of the price of a new steering box. So I gave a look at the various bits of metal lying around in the workshop, and my eyes fell on the main bearings caps of what formerly was a 2,5 diesel engine. With a bit of angle grinding, two iron plates 10mm x 30mm and some tapping (M12 the 2 lateral bolts and M14 the central one, with a 8mm steel ball on its point), this is what I made: Now I just need to be patient, and wait till the day comes when I'll see if this strange piece of iron will be up to the job.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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