white90 Posted August 2, 2008 Share Posted August 2, 2008 Rave has been known to be wrong I need to replace all the studs this gives me some hope that full hub strip isn't required as I only recently replaced all the brake discs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted August 2, 2008 Share Posted August 2, 2008 Yes, just knock them out - use an alloy or brass drift if you don't want to damage the threads. I'm not sure if there will be enough room to fit longer studs though - it's a pretty tight gap. The new studs are pulled into place with a reversed wheel nut. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted August 2, 2008 Author Share Posted August 2, 2008 70mm from rear face of mounting hub to face of brake disc. when the stud is knocked back does it allow itself to be angled to pass the bell of the brake disc? standard studs are 40mm the extended ones 60mm I actually need 46mm to deal with my application so worst case I could cut the longer ones down if needs be to get them in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted August 2, 2008 Share Posted August 2, 2008 The old stud will come out ok, Tony. Just do one and see if the new stud will go straight in. If not - you will probably be able to guage if cutting off some will work. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 I thought you had to split the hub and disc when using the later type slightly longer studs, but I might be wrong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 Nige - too slow old man. Tony sent me a message at 12.47am yesterday P.S. Your phone is turned off so I can't abuse you personally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted August 3, 2008 Author Share Posted August 3, 2008 Well I can confirm this is B/S there is no way on a 97 Defender the wheel studs will come out let alone be replaced with the brake disc still attatched so entire hub strip is required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 Well I can confirm this is B/S there is no way on a 97 Defender the wheel studs will come out let alone be replaced with the brake disc still attatchedso entire hub strip is required. I didn't think so Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted August 7, 2008 Author Share Posted August 7, 2008 Two done two to go removing old studs fairly easy with a 3lb club hammer. new ones drawn in with a wheel nut/spacer replaced seals/greased bearings and replaced rigid brake lines(corroded) the Rave manual is bonkers there is no way in hell the old studs will come out with the brake disc on. Got the new studs far cheaper than everywhere mentioned. Paddocks came good 1/2 the price of anyone advertising on the Net Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMc Posted August 7, 2008 Share Posted August 7, 2008 Got the new studs far cheaper than everywhere mentioned.Paddocks came good 1/2 the price of anyone advertising on the Net Are they the Britpart FRC7577? How much are they charging for each stud? Paul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted August 7, 2008 Author Share Posted August 7, 2008 Britpart FRC7577 £2.15 each inc VAT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMc Posted August 7, 2008 Share Posted August 7, 2008 Britpart FRC7577 £2.15 each inc VAT That's well under half the price most Britpart resellers charge and a hell of a lot cheaper than LR Genuine Parts. What's the quality like? - Britpart or OK? Paul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted August 7, 2008 Author Share Posted August 7, 2008 Paul in all honesty they are good quality price wise i was shocked when i called them to and asked them to check i was getting the correct part. Time will tell how they fair. even after pushing the wheels over the studs(with the holes to tight) read booting them then nuts ran on ok, but I did need the wheel wrench. The original studs are seriously strong though, I beat them out with the club hammer straight on the ends and not one of them is damaged, the nuts run on by hand. I found it easier to knock the studs back when the hub was still on the car, I tried both ways. getting the brake discs off undamaged is none to easy though, I resorted to the hammer again 2lb ball pein this time onto a flat steel plate from the inside. the new studs are rather too long(especially with the modulars fitted) but I felt uncomfortable running the Stazworks with the nut only 7.5 turns onto the stud(normal is 12 turns) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMc Posted August 7, 2008 Share Posted August 7, 2008 Tony, Thanks for that, I think I'll be giving Mr Paddock a call Cheers, Paul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted August 8, 2008 Author Share Posted August 8, 2008 Original studs with Stazworks pic1 (shows the need for longer studs) Drawing new stud in pic2 Studs fitted pic3 Hub back on car pic4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lansalot Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 Sorry to resuscitate such an old thread (but on the plus side, I did use the forum search ), but I ran into some problem trying to fit new studs to the rear n/s at the weekend. They were too long to slide through the hole with the bell in the background. Odd, as when I removed the old ones, they just slid out. Closer inspection revealed that someone had possibly been at them with the grinder/hacksaw, shortening them a little. Although it's a defender 90, it has disc brakes on the rear so is either disco or RR (I believe). Also-odd is that I replaced some on the o/s rear a while back, and they slid right in. Same parts, all out the same packet. So, how much of the hub do I need to remove/split to get these damn things in ?? Or am I one reply away from a head-slapping "doh-type" moment ? Pics http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/X5V...feat=directlink http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/eob...feat=directlink Doesn't look like much to go - but it's enough. Considering giving the head of the stud a little strategic flat-grind along the side for clearance... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted February 25, 2009 Author Share Posted February 25, 2009 I just split the bell from the disc, you could put and old nut on the stud the gind the flat removing the nut afterwards clearing the thread if the grind area touches it. Pic 2 shows the hub seperated from the bell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lansalot Posted February 25, 2009 Share Posted February 25, 2009 Thanks. What's the quick word on how to split them apart ? I see what appears to be some recessed screws (though it was getting dark, so not sure) in the outer plate - is it a question of dragging them out and the outer just falls off ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted February 25, 2009 Author Share Posted February 25, 2009 x5 14mm 12point bolts on the reverse when you remove the hub from the axle remove these and then place a suitable piece of steel across the inner hub and then with a Large hammer apply enough hits to separate the two, I then cleaned the faces with a pig tail wire brush on the grinder before reassemble using Loctite on the 14mm bolts, once the hub is off the car place it back inside the wheel to hold it whilst undoing the bolts that hold the disc on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cieranc Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 Just to add, 1987 110 with drums on rear. Paddock +15mm studs. Remove drum, knock out original studs, rotate stud hole to a favourable position so new stud sits behind top inside of leading shoe, use nut to draw it in. Refit drum. Easy Fronts require disc removal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FFR Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 Just to add, 1987 110 with drums on rear. Paddock +15mm studs. Remove drum, knock out original studs, rotate stud hole to a favourable position so new stud sits behind top inside of leading shoe, use nut to draw it in. Refit drum. Easy Fronts require disc removal. Hi, Almost the same car, surely the same problem. Are FRC7577 mandatory or just the bit longer RUF000020 are enough to hold wolf rims in place ? Carlos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 Nope not mandatory, XD/Wolf wheels are fine with the standard 110 studs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FFR Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 Hi, After some search, I found a nice detailed list about LR studs here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=34407&view=&hl=ruf000020&fromsearch=1 I agree with you about running wolf rims with standard studs (I had a series with disco rims and never had a problem with it). But my real concern comes from the wheel spacer... there are less than 7 turns in the nut... so I was planning to press new studs to the spacer, although the spacer and the added offset of the wolf rim makes the defender to look a bit strange... Don't know what I will do about this issue. I was just picking some information. Thanks a lot, Carlos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted December 13, 2009 Author Share Posted December 13, 2009 Small health warning here if you fit the longer studs then revert to standard wheels you will damage the nuts as they bottom out chewing the threads up. This is from experience where I had to replace the studs again after ruining them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajh Posted December 13, 2009 Share Posted December 13, 2009 Small health warning here if you fit the longer studs then revert to standard wheels you will damage the nuts as they bottom out chewing the threads up. This is from experience where I had to replace the studs again after ruining them. I assume you mean alloy nuts, how much do they need to be trimmed to work well for both? Might as well get a machinist to shorten them in a nice clean way. Probably going to plate them before fitting anyway. (yeah, defender is an odd choice for someone who hates corrosion). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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