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Which drop arm, and why?


FridgeFreezer

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Since I'm fitting a coiler steering box to the series for PAS, I need a drop arm. I seem to recall a post on the old forum by someone clever regarding fitting a Disco-something-or-other drop arm because of some very sensible reason or other... but the details escape me! :unsure:

So, which drop arm do I want and why?

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I just swapped from a Defender drop arm to a Disco type one.

The Defender arm swoops down and holds a special ball joint in the arm; there's a swan-neck on the end of the trackrod which then swoops up over the ball joint and drops on from above.

The Disco arm points nearly flat forwards and accepts a normal ball joint from below. This arrangement seems much more elegant to me and uses more standard parts but doesn't give anywhere to mount the damper. (It also seems to work loose more often but Loctite will cure that).

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John,

If you're using a series chassis and the PAS box in such a positon that the drag link ball joint is in the same place as on a series to maintain the geometry, then you need the defender one.

I've gone this route on my series, and its necessary as you have to raise the PAS box up to clear the axle on full bump, otherwise it'll clout the bottom of the output shaft. You therefore need the defender style "swoop down" drop arm as the disco one would foul the chassis.

This isnt a problem on a coiler as the PAS box sits futher in front of the axle so it all clears. However I didnt want to get into messing about with steering geometry so I did things that way.

Make any sense?

Cheers

Jon

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You can buy them separately, I think I was quoted £60ish? I paid £25 second hand though, from Christian Autos in Bristol.

I'm not wholly convinced about the Defender arm giving better clearance though - the 'ball' of the balljoint has to be in the same position to give the same steering geometry, you're surely just rearranging the supporting metal? Of course, if you've done it and it works then I'm wrong.

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Jon - it's not a Series chassis - at the moment it's not an anything chassis :blink: so wherever it needs to go, it will go.

Edited to add: Is this what I want then?

Edited again to also add: Does it make a difference what steering box I'm using, currently I've got an unpowered one.

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Jon - it's not a Series chassis - at the moment it's not an anything chassis :blink: so wherever it needs to go, it will go.

Edited to add: Is this what I want then?

Edited again to also add: Does it make a difference what steering box I'm using, currently I've got an unpowered one.

No, that's a defender one!

You want one from a disco 4 bolt box - usually between £50 & £70 new.

I bought mine at sodbury a few years back and it has worked very well. no issues with clearance or geometry at all. Best bit is changing the ball joint - it's a 5 minute job!

I bought a QT strengthened steering rod for a series 3 and a clamp on mount for the steering damper for a range rover to as the defender has the steering damper at the front. The steering rod for defenders is too short if you are attaching a regular ball joint as the normal connection to the drop arm ball joint is about 6" long with the damper mounting in the middle. The series 3 one however is exactly the right length.

Dave Marsh at QT knows all about it!

Si

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I recall some discussion on another board about drop arms (in Aus we call them pitman arms).

From that discussion, I am lead to believe that Disco 1 arms are the same as classic rangie and have the ball joint in the arm. Disco 2 arms have a taper in the arm and the ball joint is in the rod end. I am not doubting what Simon said about 4 bolt steering boxes as I don't know when the change from 3 to 4 bolt was made.

I have modified the arm for my rangie by replacing the ball joint with a bung which is bored with a taper to use an 80 series landcruiser rod end (much stronger than rover). The arm is pressed in and retained with a weld in an area which is not critical.

I am also fitting a Disco 2 steering damper (Bilstein in my case as I prefer them) because they have eyes at both ends.

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  • 12 years later...

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