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V8 LPG Fuel Economy?


Pad

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Hi,

I filled up my RRC today with gas after having it for a week and travelling about 110 miles and got 50 litres in from when I last filled.. 10 mpg!! Jeez, is that normal? I have been driving very gently albeit in mixed traffic conditions, but I was hoping for at least 16/17 mpg on gas to give me an equivalent cost of 25-28 mpg on petrol.

I do have a blowing exhaust manifold gasket but would be surprised if this was a major contributor.

Or is this just normal? 3.9 EFI by the way..

Cheers

Pad

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Hi,

I filled up my RRC today with gas after having it for a week and travelling about 110 miles and got 50 litres in from when I last filled.. 10 mpg!! Jeez, is that normal? I have been driving very gently albeit in mixed traffic conditions, but I was hoping for at least 16/17 mpg on gas to give me an equivalent cost of 25-28 mpg on petrol.

I do have a blowing exhaust manifold gasket but would be surprised if this was a major contributor.

Or is this just normal? 3.9 EFI by the way..

Cheers

Pad

My V8 Defender was the same giving about 9/10 on gas.

I'm hoping for more after upping the T/B ratio from 1.4 which was in my opinion too low for motorway cruising. I also spent most of the time in 5th gear even around town with the 1.4 box so I'm looking for a vast improvement when I eventually get back on the road with raised ratios. :D

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sadly dont have that option as its auto... I was thinking last night what a significant drop in LPG economy that is if on petrol I should expect 15-18mpg... at current difference in prices it wont make any difference which fuel I use, which is disappointing.

Perhaps I should run it on petrol for a while to see what mpg I am get..

Cheers

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it could be that the lpg system needs readjusting to compensate for the colder weather, depends on what type of system it is.

at the beginning of "summer" when we had a warm snap, my lpg economy dropped through the floor, about 10mpg, i had the system tweaked slightly, and it went back up to 17mpg (3.5 v8 manual disco)

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nope, you guys are getting considerably better than me (and about what I was hoping for). £30 did me 110 miles.... if I had done 150 miles I would have been pleased.

Make sure the timing has enough advance for gas, mine went considerably better on gas after advancing.

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What system do you have?

Single point or multipoint?

If single point & there is a flow adjuster (often called a power valve) in the line between the vapouriser & mixer is this set up correctly? If fully open all the time you will just be wasting gas.

I too get 160 to 190 on around 65ish litres depemding whether its town driving or motorway cruising.

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Its a single point... is it just a matter of adjusting the valve in until it starts running rough?

Try half a turn. Doesn't take much, I noticed a big difference in power/consumption with just 1/4 turn.

Don't try making it run rough, may get backfires and risk the AFM. Is it leaking anywhere? I had a slight leak from the plastic Y piece which lost a fair bit of gas.

Lot of trial and error really mate.

Like everyone else I expect 160-170 miles from £30-32. 200+ miles on a good motorway run (without jams!)

Or go to an autogas place and have the system serviced/checked/setup. Shouldn't be too expensive.

Good luck.

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'Kin elL!!

What are you boys doing?

I have a 100l tank in the boot which fills to about 85l, as you'd expect.

That'll cost me about £40 to fill from the point it starts to splutter and kicks back to petrol.

Now, on the motorway I'll get 250miles from that, easy. Round town more like 200.

That's about 14 mpg on the M'way, 11 round town.

These are real numbers, not me driving like a nun. If I drive like a nun and change the tyres to AT's it's noticeably (probably 2-3 mpg) better.

My lpg system is OMVL Leonardo, closed loop, single point mixer. I'm running standard ignition at 16º BTDC at idle, vac pipe clamped.

It may well be the closed loop system that makes the difference, but I'm very retentive about servicing the vaporiser, filters and ignition. I noptice the drop in performance when the filters are clogging, for example.

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David,

What tyres are you running on?

Bear in mind my numbers are on Machos, if I put my AT's on I'll get another 2-3mpg, I was pleasantly surprised when I found that out!

I fitted the wheels off 2 old road bikes, stripped everything except the driver's seat, windscreen, instrument panel and lights, and drilled holes in the chassis :lol:

No, fair play mate. That is good. I'm on goodyear wrangler ATs on the front and kumho ATs on the back. And I haven't stripped anything...

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That's my point. My Range Rover is not running in the most fuel efficient setup. I have chunky tyres on, 4 antennas and a light bar on the roof, and a ton of carp in the boot. I'm still getting similar mpg to you guys. If I were to set the car up a bit more standard, lose the lights and antennas and fit the other wheels. ie Run as you do I'm getting better mpg.

Without nun 'esque driving either!

Now there's a whole lot of other factors to consider, closed loop LPG system will help, engine and transmission condition, even altitude above sea leve and air temperature & humidity!

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I'm running standard ignition at 16º BTDC at idle, vac pipe clamped.

What's with the clamped vac pipe? Are you preventing vac advance? I've not heard of this before

It may well be the closed loop system that makes the difference, but I'm very retentive about servicing the vaporiser, filters and ignition. I noptice the drop in performance when the filters are clogging, for example.

I too have the two-stage OMVL vaporiser. What does your servicing consist of?

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Sorry, to clarify.

16º BTDC, vac pipe clamped = The timing was set up by an old experienced engine tuner, by ear, vac guage, sniffing the exhaust and power runs on the rolling road. When we measured the timing after tuning, for reference purposes, we found it to be 16º BTDC (according to the marks). When setting or checking timing with a strobe, standard practice is to disconnect and plug, or clamp the vac pipe, so that the vacumn A/R mech is not affecting the timing at idle

Once I year I strip the vaporiser, cleaning out any heavy ends and generally checking it over. I replace the diaphragm and springs (you buy a service kit which includes everything you need). Also remove and clean out the filter in the solenoid valve, replacing the filter pack. Once that's all back together, out with the laptop and set up the mixture again.

LPG engines with vacumn operated vaporisers need a bit of resistance in the air filter, K&N free flow filter is no good, conversely a choked air filter will knock the mpg down, so that get changed regularly too.

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Sorry, to clarify.

16º BTDC, vac pipe clamped = The timing was set up by an old experienced engine tuner, by ear, vac guage, sniffing the exhaust and power runs on the rolling road. When we measured the timing after tuning, for reference purposes, we found it to be 16º BTDC (according to the marks). When setting or checking timing with a strobe, standard practice is to disconnect and plug, or clamp the vac pipe, so that the vacumn A/R mech is not affecting the timing at idle

Once I year I strip the vaporiser, cleaning out any heavy ends and generally checking it over. I replace the diaphragm and springs (you buy a service kit which includes everything you need). Also remove and clean out the filter in the solenoid valve, replacing the filter pack. Once that's all back together, out with the laptop and set up the mixture again.

LPG engines with vacumn operated vaporisers need a bit of resistance in the air filter, K&N free flow filter is no good, conversely a choked air filter will knock the mpg down, so that get changed regularly too.

Okay, now I understand I think, just clamped during tuning.

Now I fully accept that filters should be kept clean, but if you have a lambda controlled system, as I do, I would have thought that would be able to take care of some variations in running conditions (within reason). I have also read here on other threads that changes in weather can upset the mpg, but again wouldn't the lambda control be able to compensate?

Who, apart from RPI, sells service kits for OMVL vaporisers?

Thanks,

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