davidlandy Posted January 30, 2006 Share Posted January 30, 2006 unfortunaltey I spent some time stuck in some 3.5ft deep gritty/muddy water without my front wading plug in - result is that my front crank seal appears to be leaking...Grrrrrr how long and how easy is this to do???? cheers chaps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted January 30, 2006 Share Posted January 30, 2006 You'd have to take the timing cover, timing belt and inner pulley off to get at the seal, not sure how long perhaps 4-5 hours? never actually done it myself It might also be the camshaft oil seal though, but probably worth changing both while you are in there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidlandy Posted January 30, 2006 Author Share Posted January 30, 2006 You'd have to take the timing cover, timing belt and inner pulley off to get at the seal, not sure how long perhaps 4-5 hours? never actually done it myselfIt might also be the camshaft oil seal though, but probably worth changing both while you are in there I was hoping that u werent gonna say that! not looking forward to this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted January 31, 2006 Share Posted January 31, 2006 Sadly, it's a total sod of a job! Not difficult, but time consuming. I did mine twice after tearing the seal the first time during reassembly. Trouble is that the oil pump is directly behind it and the oil is at fairly high pressure so it will do all it can to leak. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidlandy Posted February 1, 2006 Author Share Posted February 1, 2006 cheers Guys got the bits today a timing cover gasket crank front oil seal plus one for the timing cover front whilst in there thought I may as well get the timing belt done and tensioner wish me luck! will definaltey use a wading plug next time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted February 1, 2006 Share Posted February 1, 2006 was just going to add do the timing belt, and cam seal at the same time! then saw your reply. dont forget the new antifreeze! (if your going in from the front) Expect to have fun getting the crank nut off, you can brace the bar against the chassis etc to aid removal if you havent got ratchet tools. when you stick it back together dont put too much lock seal on the thread is my top tip after doing the front crank seal worng and having to take it all out and do it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidlandy Posted February 1, 2006 Author Share Posted February 1, 2006 oh no - thought I could get in without removing anywater pipes/pump? just thought - do I need a camshaft oil seal as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 using a 3/4 socket set brace the bar against the o/s chassis rail then flick the starter to undo the crank pulley nut. you'll need the pullers/timing pins to s the job too. when you remove the old timing gasket save a piece for the one lone bolt in the timing case that has an individual circular gasket. Plus there is an O ring on the crank I had to order this from the main dealer part number ERR4710 in staffordshire as no ne local had one. my camshaft seal was fine part number ERR3356 So I left well alone. Crank seal part number ERR4575 I strongly suggest buying two of all of them incase you damage one then everywhere is shut to get another. I got a few for spares just incase. the job took 4hrs to set the timing belt tension a dial type torque wrench should be used unless your experienced and can do it by feel/look. I borrowed one but have since purchased one from Difflock.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 using a 3/4 socket set brace the bar against the o/s chassis rail then flick the starter to undo the crank pulley nut. That's fine for undoing the bolt, but to do it up properly you really need one of these: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 What use is a can of Peaceful Sleep for doing up a bolt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 Jim did mine up by using hand tools, whats the special tool needed for locking the crank in place whilst you use a socket on the nut? i used the clutch to achieve the same, well it never came undone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted February 3, 2006 Share Posted February 3, 2006 What use is a can of Peaceful Sleep for doing up a bolt It stops the mozzies biting while you are struggling under the Landy trying to get one of those bluddy bolts to enter. You don't get many mozzies in the Falklands, I suppose? The official torque for the bolt is 80Nm +90deg. Doesn't sound like much, but I use a 3/4 t-bar with a pipe on the end. If the bolt comes loose you are in deep trouble. ps the torque for the 200tdi engine is something like 265Nm, and most torque wrenches don't go that high, normally only 200Nm. I reckon this is why LR changed the spec on the 300tdi to an angle instead. I must say I was lucky to get that tool for the equivalent of 7 quid from a guy who was selling off a load of (mostly useless) special tools. I notice the local LR dealers (mostly) do not use this tool as most crank bolts I have undone have not been tight at all. It can be an awful pain to fit, especially if you are working alone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidlandy Posted February 3, 2006 Author Share Posted February 3, 2006 All Done! just over 3 hrs it took I have never seen so much sh*t in the timing gear housing! thanks all for the advice must remember to put wading plug in next time!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidlandy Posted February 11, 2006 Author Share Posted February 11, 2006 its leaking again I didnt change the O ring , could this have been the problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted February 11, 2006 Share Posted February 11, 2006 Hell yes Why didn't you change it??? if you can't get one I'll post you my spare then get another some other time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidlandy Posted February 12, 2006 Author Share Posted February 12, 2006 Hell yesWhy didn't you change it??? if you can't get one I'll post you my spare then get another some other time Cheers Tony Gonna see if i can get the bits on monday - if I cant I may take you up on your kind offer !! fancy not changing the O ring eh? i take it this could be the source of the leak rather than the oil seal? .....oh, and its just started raining my winch is broke and is in pieces, my front axle bushes are knackered what else Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidlandy Posted February 15, 2006 Author Share Posted February 15, 2006 stripped down, its the cam shaft seal!!!! will get the seal and rebuild tommorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted February 16, 2006 Share Posted February 16, 2006 I'd replace the O ring and crank seal again whilst your there and use genuine parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidlandy Posted February 18, 2006 Author Share Posted February 18, 2006 turned out to be a camshaft seal in the end spent all day repairing and rewiring my winch with an albright - also fitted arather cool led lamp to the back of the winch so that at night i can see the wire onto the drum ;-) also replaced the worn raduis arms bushes - the polybushes in there were so worn out - I am not convinced that they are any good to be honest. and finally tightened my wheel bearings knackered now!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deej Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 Does anyone have any tips on the best way to remove the crank/cam oil seals? I'm really struggling to remove them without getting all ham-fisted and risking damage to the mating surfaces. Cheers Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 screw a self tapping screw into the face you can see & pull the seal out with pliers gripping the screw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 You need a "Seal-puller" - basically a thin, stiff metal thing with a twisted hook on the end. You can achieve the same result using a bicycle-spoke: push the angled spoke-end that normally goes into the hub past the seal then turn it through 90 degrees so the 'lump' engages with the seal. Grab hold of the end of the spoke with a Mole-wrench, and give a mighty yank! When it comes to fitting the new seal, I recommend a thin smear of Hylomar on the outer part of it, and using a short length of plastic pipe to tap it into place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deej Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 screw a self tapping screw into the face you can see & pull the seal out with pliers gripping the screw That worked a treat thanks - although it took a serious amount of yanking with the pliers to get the seal out! Having solved that problem I quickly came across another, bloody stripped threads where the idler pulley stud goes into the timing case. I wish I had just left the old stud in now, there was a fair bit of aluminum corrosion visible when I took it out, and when I was tightening up the nut (with a torque wrench I might add) it felt as if the engine block was made of chocolate. I've ordered a helicoil kit and so hopefully that will sort it. My first timing belt change has been a steep learning curve... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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