Clutch Change

[roybatty666]

Being that my luck when working on my Landy is far from good I want to ensure I have every conceivable part at my disposal before I start my clutch and gearbox change.

My clutch is not slipping but not that healthy and I am in real danger of shearing hair like splines I have left on my output shaft

So far purchased

130 Valeo friction plate

130 Valeo Clutch cover

Genuine Land Rover release bearing (binned the free britpart one I got witht he clutch)

Rackway billet aluminium bearing carrier

Clutch arm (need to weld something over the pivot point)

to purchase this month

lt77 gearbox

cross drilled input gear

input gear bearings

transfer box input shaft seal

As I will be pulling the floor and tunnel up (and hopefully replacing the foot wells as I have had the repair panels knocking about for ages) I am in doubt of the reusability of the floor bolts etc, do these go into captive nuts? or are they a nut and bolt affair? What part numbers are these or are they general bolts/screws?

My Defender 200tdi engine has only 40k on it and is not losing any oil through the bell housing breather so the rear crankshaft seal appears to be fine.

Is it woth replacing the gearbox mounts?

I have had no issues with the clutch hydraulics so am tempted to leave them alone or is it worth fitting a new slave cylinder?

I am hoping it will go relatively smoothly as the Transfer box is a recon unit (looks like they didn't address the gearbox shaft issue when they did it) and I have a rather useful transmission jack so hoping that at least will come off easily, the engine was changed only 4k miles ago so again I am hoping for relatively hassle free bolts (hmmm)

So what can go wrong and what should I buy in "just in case"?

Cheers chaps

[western]

replace the floor bolts & plastic nutserts/ spire nuts, leave the cclutch hydraulics intact, just be very carefull when removing/refitting the slave cylinder.

the plastic nutserts are CZA4705L

Spire nuts are 302352

the screws I bought from ebay stainless steel type,similar to these

if the gearbox rubbers are OK leave them.

all the front floor parts here

[Deface]

just be very carefull when removing/refitting the slave cylinder.

all the front floor parts here

Yeh when i did this job the rubber dirt seal had dissapeared and the piston in the slave cylinder fell out along with the spring and a hole load of clutch fluid, not a big problem just annoying.

[roybatty666]

Cheers chap, that gives me an idea of the number spire and plastic nut thingies to get.

I will watch the old slave cyclinder.

Can I get away with just taking the floor, tunnel and just the center and driver side seat panels out to do it or does the battery box need to come out to?

[orangemach5]

The slave cylinder is a dead easy job with the engine and box in anyway, not worth changing while your there!

[roybatty666]

The slave cylinder is a dead easy job with the engine and box in anyway, not worth changing while your there!

Cool, I am not keen to change anything I don't have to, it is just my luck that when ever I do anything an assosiated part will allways fall to pieces when removing it to get to the part I want to replace. Hence I try and get replacement bolts for every job I do as you always end up cutting one off

Are the bolts securing the transferbox and gearbox prone to shearing?

[orangemach5]

Ive never had a problem with the bellhousing or the trasferbox to gearbox bolts shearing, i think the only time you would have problems is if a bolt has been crossthreaded and just wound in (cowboy styleee!), i think thats pretty unlikely though.

[roybatty666]

Ive never had a problem with the bellhousing or the trasferbox to gearbox bolts shearing, i think the only time you would have problems is if a bolt has been crossthreaded and just wound in (cowboy styleee!), i think thats pretty unlikely though.

hmm thinks back to having to take a front prop off the back axle when he bought the car

The previous owner was clearly not a cowboy lol

[western]

Cheers chap, that gives me an idea of the number spire and plastic nut thingies to get.

I will watch the old slave cyclinder.

Can I get away with just taking the floor, tunnel and just the center and driver side seat panels out to do it or does the battery box need to come out to?

remove these from inside ---

gearbox tunnel

drivers side floor panel

passenger side floor panel

cover under centre seat or cubby box

battery box & tool box under the front outer seats are not removable. unless you want to drill out spot welds & then re spot weld alloy.

[reb78]

I also removed the bit of metal just under the fusebox. This comes out easily when the floor panels are removed and exposes all of the bellhousing bolts.

The only thing i can think of that the others havenlt mentioned is be really careful not to overtighten any of the bolts that go into the alloy threads - i used to have a habit of doing this so i use a torque wrench where i can fit one in. However - someone else, not me for a change had ripped the thread in the bellhousing where the slave cylinder bolts on - luckily the hole is longer than the old bolt so i fitted a longer one and it was ok - for a while though i thought i'd have to remove the box again and replace the bellhousing with a spare one i have - my heart sank at the thought of this.

[western]

oh yeah, forgot the panel under the fusebox, without that removed it's hard to get to all the bell housing fixings.

[Les Henson]

Follow this thread, but go that little bit further and replace the clutch as well.

(300TDi 110CSW, but method is the same)

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=5010

Les.

[roybatty666]

Cheers chaps, I have a torque wrench so will torque the bolts to avoid stripping the threads

Les I have studdied your threads on clutch / gearbox changes in preperation, a big personel thanks for the time you put in these guides, you have already helped me do my hubs, swivels, diffs, suspension, steering and soon new gearbox and clutch. hopefuly I will get to bump into you in person one day so I can thank you in person and buy you a drink or 10

Same goes for mr Western and several others on here, stars the lot of you </gay mode>

[pete3000]

dont forget some new new prop shaft nuts and bolts if you are taking your gearbox/tx gearbox down, to do clutch.

some threadlock and some instant gasket (high temp rtv or hylomar) for sealing it all back together. Thinking belhousing to gearbox and transgearbox to gearbox.

Fluids for both boxes? ATF/EP90

While you have got the props off you could grease/inspect the uj's. Only my tuppence worth but I'd be incline to have new gearbox mounts (decent or genuine) after seeing the state britpart cr*p I put on 5k ago. After all if you are having a new gear box anyway.......

It never ends does it

Pete

[roybatty666]

my props are new and I have loads of prop bolts due to over ordering lol

I did think about mounts and judging by the other perished rubber parts I previously replaced on the car I half expect them to fall apart on removal!

I have some bog standard black sealant to hand, does itneed to be high temp as although the box gets hot it doesn't get that hot.

Also does anyone know the part number for the transfer box input shaft seal as I must be blind as I cam't find one online anywhere

[western]

roybatty666 ---- Also does anyone know the part number for the transfer box input shaft seal as I must be blind as I cam't find one online anywhere

FRC2365 Oil Seal Mainshaft Transfer Gear

try here 2nd from bottom on the page http://www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk/BeamEnd...Gear/index.html

or here http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listi...NSION-CASE.html

[dantd5]

replace the floor bolts & plastic nutserts/ spire nuts, leave the cclutch hydraulics intact, just be very carefull when removing/refitting the slave cylinder.

the plastic nutserts are CZA4705L

Spire nuts are 302352

the screws I bought from ebay stainless steel type,similar to these

if the gearbox rubbers are OK leave them.

all the front floor parts here

Ralph those plate screws for the floor panels or better still footwells are just useless stuff!! They are water inviters to the footwell. They barely hold the footwell plate firmly and secured in place. I got a friend in the car whiles I went under the footwell and used a 13mm bolt and nut plus a Coal-tar-look-alike filler and til today no water in my footwell... Think I am talking about the same thing!! take a look at footwells..

[western]

Used all the above parts on my 110, but don't go deep water bashing with it, so dry footwells for me

[roybatty666]

with my holey footwells still to deal with I won't worry to much about how water tight the floor is

[dantd5]

with my holey footwells still to deal with I won't worry to much about how water tight the floor is

"holey footwells"... that does not sound good at all.. are you aware you could be breeding fungus in the footwell? Even mosquito larvae could be growing in there! B)

[roybatty666]

Well my Christmas present to myself came early

A nice shiny Ashcroft LT77, I plumpt for the later 56G variant with the thicker gears and better pump while I was at it

I now have everything I need to start my box and clutch change

Lots of floor bolts and and captive nuts etc so I have no floor/ tunnel issues, I did miss off the new cross drilled input gear in this pic

Shiney Rackway release bearing carrier

This means that I now have reconned transfer box, gearbox, new props new difs with a truetrac and detroit locker, new brake lines, discs & pads, new springs and dampers, trailing arms, every suspension bush is new, and a reconned steering box, oh and a 40k defender 200tdi engine.

Not bad for 6 months ownership (bar the engine that was done before me)

As a work colleague said today, it looks battered to carp on the outside but is virtually as new internally

Just going to order a new cross-member and start hunting for a decent NATO hitch for the next phase

Addictive stuff!!

[Les Henson]

You'll probably need an SVA after fitting that lot!

Les.

[roybatty666]

You'll probably need an SVA after fitting that lot!

Les.

In all seriousness due to recent events I am looking into doing just that in the new year as apart from the standard body style and un-altered chassis I think I score no points for any other area SVA/IVA wise

It is interesting considering that apart from the the llama4x4 suspension setup (still stock lift) it is all like for like just reconned bits off other motors, it is not like a bobbed 4 linked challenge truck yet still requires a check.

I suppose we are all painfully aware why it is needed and I hope more of us will be putting our Landys in, if you are confident enough to drive on your handywork and put your and your loved ones life in it then surely you are confident it will fly through an SVA?

[roybatty666]

Started the gearbox change today and like others found the joy of rusty floor bolts to be a pain but mr grinder sorted those out.

Luckily? my mid exhaust section had a big hole so need changing anyway so that was cut off due to more rusted bolts.

The rear gear was pretty warn so refused to slid off the shaft so that came out with the transfer box.

I think I need to get some welding done on the old chassis or ideally a new one but I don't have the room to do that the reason being is I found a nice hole in my drivers side front outrigger and another pair of holes where the faces of the gearbox cross member mate to the chassis rails

I have the main box and clutch to pull tomorrow and then put all the new bits on and put it back together.

Some nice rust holes

Nice red rusty gunge from the dead spline

[roybatty666]

Following my "Ahh I am going to break something thread" I have had some progress so though I would update this thread as I know via PMs that there are some people interested in my little mission (perhaps the amusement of a gearbox change virgin having a bash)

Following alignment issues with my gearbox which I resolved and a transfer box trying to murder me I am in the final stages of reassembly

New 130 clutch installed (second attempt)

Belhousing and clutch arm swapped over to new box

Finally aligned and bolted in (note the old input gear used to turn the box to line up the splines) I also found aligning the input shaft and spigot bush without the clutch on to get it all ready helped a lot in getting it together, also using the top stud on the engine as a fulcrum to push down on the back of the box casing the input shaft nose to list and find the spigot bush worked well

Weight training did come in handy, well the barbell and a ratchet strap meant I could lift the box in stages and use axle stands to get it level, I also had a transmission jack underneath sharing the weight and allowing the box to slid along something

And its in

I had to move the driver side gearbox mounting ledge on the chassis as the old bush had warped so the new straight one wasn't in line. All bolted together nice and tight.

The linkages and breathers were refitted along with the reverse, difflock and gearbox earth strap. All filled with oil and ready to go

All that is left is to refit the exhaust, props, chassis cross member and the floor panels and gearbox tunnel, hand brake cable needs refitting and a few odds and ends

Turned her over and everything turns as it should but had to switch her off quickly as the exhaust was pumping into the cab with the missing center section and no floor

Should be all buttoned up and ready to roll tomorrow (had to stop as I look after my 7 month old daughter in the evenings when the mrs goes to work)