muddy Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 do you mean that if your standing at the back of the motor looking through the tailgate/door the stays mount at the base as nige has them now but they taper outwards as they go up so that the meet the outside egdes of the rear hoop? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted January 12, 2009 Author Share Posted January 12, 2009 Ah ! Yep with you, and yes it will as it has a collar under it mimicking the finished position when the mount plate goes under I;m not using NORs as I have 4x holes in an 8x8inch square that I will make / use instead and then just redrill the holes so at the mo its too long and when trimmed will bite into the base plate Odd tho, as NOR say this is MSA std approved, frankly the Blue Book needs to be explained by Prof S Hawkins on most pages user friendly it isn't, took me an age to understand only parts of it, other parts I give up trying to work out, a mate is a MSA scrutineer and he struggles with some sections - as I found when I asked him, also some scrutnieers seem to make up their own F rules Deep Joy On the Q of cage and cage deisgn.... hoping Steve90 will post up pics of his P&P cage for a comparison / option / information P&P or NOR the qulaity is superb, hope they never see the blobby bits on the chassis mount .................... Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciderman Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 TBH Nige , Its much of a muchness , Both North off road and Protection and Performance turn out some quality products , So the comparison will be minimal . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted January 12, 2009 Author Share Posted January 12, 2009 [tart mode securely on] But theres always the design bling Ooooer factor tho [/tart mode off] Never to be underestimated Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciderman Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 Bling factor Bent tubes that save yer skin if you F up . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted January 12, 2009 Author Share Posted January 12, 2009 Erm Yoooooooow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciderman Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 Did you have the Ozzy Ozbourne CD on at the time Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zulublue Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 Hi Nige, The cage is looking great mate, I have removed the rear floor of mine today and fitted one of the mounts to take the front hoop, the mounts you are using look the same or very similar to what I have, I managed to get away with not removing the wing (For now), I removed 3 bolts that go in to the bulk head and could work around the rest, I don't know if you have fitted your wings back on yet but wanted to know if the mounts foul the bottom of the wing, mine looks like its pushed out by about 2mm, not much I know but there seems to be nothing I can do for it, also with the mount tube in place I dont think I can get to the bottom wing bolt even if it does line up, time will tell other side tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 Firstly.... for getting rid of the hard top! Secondly, you going to put in the provision for a Centre winch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted January 14, 2009 Author Share Posted January 14, 2009 I don't mean to criticize what has obviously taken a lot of time, but - my rear stays go from the chassis rails at the bottom of the back door, outwards to the top corners of the B-hoop - this makes sense to me to transfer any loads from the windscreen hoop to the rear chassis and keep it all strong. Why haven't you built it as such?Other than that, cracking build thread - know anything about VG turbos? John, You sort of rang a bell in my mind on this Having spoken to Shaun at NOR, and Nigel T MSA SCrutineer, plus a couple of others I think I have missed a trick here, as I am now going to in effect leave the base mounting where it is and then "Undo" the spot welds (tried - hammer blows aint going to do it ) and move the tops towards the outside of the cage by about 2 " lining up with the joiner that runs between the front and rear hoops at the top of the roof Can do either apparently - but the above is deemed Stronger, and in Fairness to NOR as designed and MSA Approved Ta for the pointer - More later Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted January 14, 2009 Share Posted January 14, 2009 lining up with the joiner that runs between the front and rear hoops at the top of the roof That's the important bit, so the loadpath is through the nodes which are strong points. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcwcooper Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 Any more updates? Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted January 21, 2009 Author Share Posted January 21, 2009 Hopefully - this weekend should see it all welded up(ish) works got in the way...... plus a few other things ..... but I do have a PTG* Pass this weekend Nige * "Permission to Garage" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcwcooper Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 ahh......you need a PTG too. Not just me then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted January 24, 2009 Author Share Posted January 24, 2009 Well progress today of sorts 1st jobbie was to make the plates for the rear hoop to chassis, these are supplied but in simple terms I had the plates with 4 holes in from the old hardtop all welded up underneath as chassis connectors - , but bigger than the NOR plates suppied - so made 2 x plates drilled the 4x holes slid them under and welded them up. The rear down stays have been moved outwards an 1" or 2" so as to line up with the roof bars, the front wings have been refitted, then I found a problem, .............as I had made the challenge wings 'wider' to fit my original home made hard top cage, now with the NOR cage the wings were too F wide Some 2 hours later my widening was 'removed' ( Oh FFS ) and the new joiners made and fitted with cross drill holes etc. Then a selection of soaking wet towels were placed on the roof to cover roof and glass and the entire Cage welded up as much as possible ..........a bit at a time Do about 1 inch of weld and then move diagonally around the cage - you'll be amazed how it 'creaks' 'cracks' and 'moves', this way its welded without being tensioned - much stronger, but bolted hard down in 6x places so the cage is fixed as you weld and the bit at a time stops the flex and distrotion. Tomorow I am going to think through the placements of the waffles, hift lift, spare wheel, and ground anchor,and other bits etc, Then having sorted that out remove the Truck Cab roof with the cage in place and weld underneath as much as I can, then remove cage and weld up anything missed........ then prep for spraying of both cage and the roof More yet to come Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciderman Posted January 25, 2009 Share Posted January 25, 2009 Thats coming on a treat Nige ,Nice tight fitting cage , I spose I better pull my finger out and make a start on mine . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve 90 Posted January 25, 2009 Share Posted January 25, 2009 Thats coming on a treat Nige ,Nice tight fitting cage , I spose I better pull my finger out and make a start on mine . I think!!! And this is only from offering the bent tubes into place and sizing it all up our P&P cages are about the same fit for the windscreen hoop and a little closer fitting around the rear of the TC. Not sure how the lengths of the roof bars will work out but they are only bent and not notched (coz I asked for them that way) so it can be fine tuned to suit. Looking good Nige, Fits nicely and looks A1 quality! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted February 1, 2009 Author Share Posted February 1, 2009 Thought you'd all like a laugh at my expense...... 'Roof Painting' ........... HFH Stylee In the workshop : 2x Propane space heaters on 'full chat' since 7.30am, (60,000 BTU each ) Removed all glass etc from TC, rubbed down removed bigger dents have ali etched bits showing ali ....and primered the same just now... When I went in the garage 1st thing (8.00am) I had thermals and 3 T-shirts and a fleece, when I came out just now - had shorts 1 t shirt and covered in sweat ........which brings me to Outside the workshop : Slipped on the ice in my T shirt and shorts F freezing falling repeatedly on my arse like a skating rink I don't so much have a "Little bit of paradise" in the workshop ....I have a "Little bit of the F Saraha" here Being in the workshop, turning burners on and off, nice 3M organic breathing mask with straps around and across head, 2 Ferkin good coats, 1 very minor run, but all in all I was very chuffed with my efforts. Removed mask, escaped workshop, re set burners came in house, wife and her mate collapse laughing, I looked in the mirror Er "Ooops" sumed it up I had 2 "Stripes" across me little bald bonce, seems I have etched primed and top coated me F head with all the spray about in the air 3 shampoos later (2 'good' and one "Vigorous" ) didn't touched it thinnery soaked rag and some rough head rubbing coupled with swearing did ......just.... So, top tip from me for spraying is cover yer head Next weekend with a bit of luck cage off finish welding / paint Nige (or......as Mr V8 Freak Called me "Mr Badger" ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T1G UP Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 Painters usually wear a tyvek suit when spraying......bit late now i know but for next time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 go faster stripes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mel Posted February 6, 2009 Share Posted February 6, 2009 I'd just like to add, for what its worth that it looks like you've done a really proffessional job and a good helpful account of it too ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted February 6, 2009 Author Share Posted February 6, 2009 ^^ Thanks for the kind comments inc Ciderman earlier Taking longer than I had hoped partly due to weather and then time This "Work" stuff doesn't half slow things down Hoping to get the cage off this weekend, then weld it up where I can't get to it and then think about poainting it, if only the weather and temp would improve More to come yet, hope it helps others in the long run to fit a cage, and looking forwards to seeing the Performance and Protection cage as a comparison, as that was my 2nd choice Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted February 7, 2009 Author Share Posted February 7, 2009 Cage is STILL not off, reason - the F Highlift I have decided on the spare wheel flat on floor, and a new hydro tank in the space betwwen the rear hoop of the roll cage and the tyre itself, but the question of 'WTF' to put the highlift has evaded me now for a while Today I decided I had to sort this,.. spares sorted, ...Hydro tank sorted, ...even the ground anchor and waffles places are sorted ....so at around 10.30am I grabbed the highlift and then did what seemed to be 3 hours "Keep fit airobics clutching a F highlift " I tried in in a number of places, the rear stay(s) rear hoop, doagonal, inside between cage and truck and a load others, but I decided it had to be reasonally get at able, not high up, partly COG and partly sense in it clouting me when removing or replacing on my own. Had to also not block the view from the rear window, as that was one of the key reasons to go truck cab in the first place, and, until the position was decided, ...and the mounts made up and welded to the cage ..... I can't take the cage off for welding up and painting. Some 3 hours later position was finally sorted, and the tubes made to join to the cage, you'll also see a couple of NOR whizzy High Lift Mounts which I have used, ......... a very neat solution from them which I like a lot !. I also took the opportunity to both replace the "Lovingly Pre-bent" high lift lever with a new one ...and longer one too, as you never sometimes seem to have enough "leverage" - so this also then meant it reached the 2nd 'NOR' Mounting The brackets were a right royal PITFA to make up, but made they were and at the end of this afternoon ALL I have to show for a days work piggin about with a highlift is a now mounted highlift ridiculous fab time sometimes in what you think would be a 5 mins job - but its good and strong Hey ho, maybe tommorrow The cage will be off.................. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boothy Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 Honest answer, how often do you ever use the friggin highlift ???? I've carried one for years, but the daft bit is I dont even carry a spare, and I have centre winch to do a sideways pull of the nearest fixed object to remove a wheel if need be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zulublue Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 Hi Nige, I was in the same position today, have tried various ways to mount it but think I am going to fit it on the rear stay, I've had it previously on the back of the cab but it was a pain in the bum trying to put it on and you need to get in the tub to lift it that far over, only thing is I have not decided where the waffle boards are going yet, I think when I put the locker cupbards in I will make part of them lower and sink the boards in to the locker top and just have one larger door on the top. Looking good mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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