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Off with its head


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Big bad rattly noises, deep resonating chugging and very heavy surging from the turbo under any load tells me that I wasn't worrying about nothing, and that it'll be coming apart again. Sadly work and weekends are mental for a bit - lucky I've got another car!

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I've found the nasty rattle... #5 valve cap had gone missing, despite the clearances on all the others remaining at 0.2mm and the adjuster wasn't slack. Happily I rescued the cap from #6 pushrod hole so it can go back together BUT! How did it go walkies and how do I stop it happening again?

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Check the followers in the block.

They have been known to wear out causing erratic valve clearances resulting in floating valve caps! Seen it on a 200,took two head strips to notice it :blink:

had exactly the same problem on my old 300. Worn followers, tappets were never set right and knocking when idling for too long.

Rest of the engine was perfect.

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I adjusted the tappets last night, started it up and it sounded better than it has for a long time. 15 miles to work and back, and it's sounding rattly and down on power again. I whipped the rocker cover off and adjusted the tappets again, all there or thereabouts except #5 which had a monster gap - adjusted properly it looks like this now, note the lack of visible thread on #5 (on the right):

07042009142s.jpg

This is looking like a worn cam follower from the descriptions above (and hopefully not a cam too). I think I know the answer to this, but do I have to pull the head again to swap a cam follower? Will it be ok to drive in the interim with the adjuster wound up as above, or might it hold the valve open if the follower moves around again? I need a week's motoring while I work out where the misfire's coming from on the MG and order some bits for that... :rolleyes:

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I need a week's motoring while I work out where the misfire's coming from on the MG and order some bits for that... :rolleyes:

OT: If my experience of the same (well, a 1.4l) engine in a Rover 400 is anything to go by, a set of plugs, leads, rotor and cap will effect a cure. They need regular attention and for the price it is a worthwhile investment.

Your tappet looks all wrong to me, head off again - not missing the cap again is it? :P

Chris

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Before you pull the head off - swap pushrods over and see if there's still a big variation in the same position. Pushrods do vary in length, but not as much as your adjuster threads are showing (you might have an odd one) If the thread variation swaps with the same pushrod, then it's a minor problem/can possibly be ignored.

Les.

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OT: A short search of the engine bay has not turned up a distributor, so I suspect it's wasted spark + coil packs + ECUs + sensors + £££ :unsure:

OT: Well go for the plugs and leads then, even cheaper! :P Coil packs are very reliable - my (reliable and Japanese) MX5 being on it's originals at 4 times the mileage yours MG has. Last time our Rover played up I found a good website showing all the values to expect from sensors when cold, atmospheric pressure etc. I am sure it is a simple fault.

When I rebuilt my Tdi head I also had trouble with a tappet setting but in my case it was because I had the pushrod mal-seated on the edge of the cam follower making it seem too long. It fell off the edge and seated itself properly when I went on a test run and then sounded like a bag of spanners - and caused much depression and head holding. Gladly it was easily fixed.

Just a thought, the valve is closing (was closed at time of setting) properly is it? Does a straight edge along the tops of the valve stems reveal anything? :unsure:

Chris

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Personally (and its my opinion only so dont flame me!!) given that you have put a new head on and gone to the hassle/expense of doing all of this work I would strip and rebuild your rocker arm assembly and push rods.

If thats the state of one whats the rest like?

Can you confirm that the tappet adjuster actually wore that amount in such a short period of time? I find it quite amazing if that is the case, scary stuff!! :o

Cheers

G :)

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Yes, that wear is over 100miles or so. I found one bent adjuster and decided to replace them all, turns out one had missed the hardening treatment stage... I'll put one of the OEM ones back in, return the cam followers to the shop and cross my fingers that the problem's gone away.

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Oil change indeed. <_< I wiped around the rocker box with the "magnet-covered-in-tissue" technique and recovered a bit but not enough to equate to the missing material. However, while I don't want to speak too soon, it's now running better than it has in years and sounds lovely so I'll run it for a week to bed everything down, then it's back to VGT development (which will probably cost me another head and start the whole merry-go-round again... :) )

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well, this seems to be a hel of a thread. considering it a 300 tdi and theres planty about, you may as well ahve bought a second hand one, stripped it, reconditioned it and put an engine in!

Speaking of which ive got a 200 tdi defender engine which im open to any reasonable offer on.........

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