gsr341 Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 hi , could hear a rumbling (over the simex) coming home from work today , and discovered my r/n/s bearing has gone (only found it realy after removing the half shaft ) any way just cheaking but i do fill it with grease ? and its not oil fed from the axel at the moment it appears to be lubricated with H2O whilst im here , is there a tourqe value to set it to (1994 300tdi defender) or is it set with a DTI any setting values appreciated as i dont have a maual (yet) cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR90 Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 The current thinking is to grease it up but remove all but the inboard hub seal (RTC3511) so that in use it is oil lubed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 Pack the new bearing with grease, don't let it run with no lube,cos you'll be doing it again very soon, it's possible to remove a seal to let the diff oil get to the bearing it won't do it any harm. to refit fit bearing & spacing washer fit inner nut [adjusting nut] tighten to 50Nm or 37lbft back off 90 degrees retighten to 10Nm or 7lbft fit lock washer fit outer nut [locknut] tighten outer nut [locknut] to 50Nm or 37lbft secure inner nut/outer nut by bending tab [lock washer] over 1 flat of each nut fit gasket/driving member/bolts tighten to 65Nm or 48lbft/halfshaft circlip/end cap Job Done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjojjas Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 The current thinking is to grease it up but remove all but the inboard hub seal (RTC3511) so that in use it is oil lubed. I didn't realise that. I just rebuilt all mine and put new seals everywhere. Obviously packing the bearing with grease as well. Jas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 I use the seals as designed, fill the swivels with EP90 and the bearings are greased. that way any water ingress to the swivels/drive members restricts the water into everything else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 I use the seals as designed, fill the swivels with EP90 and the bearings are greased.that way any water ingress to the swivels/drive members restricts the water into everything else. I take the opposite view and remove the seals. This on the basis that if there is oil coming out then water can get in and I would rather a small oil patch on the drive than another seized wheel on the M4! Oil on the drive is inconvenient, a siezed wheel is terrifying! Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_a Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 I've not had much luck keeping my bearings tight using the torque method, and as I don't have a DTI there is another simpler way. Put the wheel back on and then tighten the nut until the play is removed from the wheel, you can get a LOT more leverage when the wheel is back on to determine if the free play has gone. I figure that if it's too tight with no or little play in the wheel then I'm in trouble no matter what, but that being too loose will also be a problem - so lesser of two evils for me. Agree about the removal of the inner seal, wish I had done the front ones, however the bronze bush needs to come out first I believe. Hopefully any gack getting is diluted enough to cause no problems and that regular oil changes will be done anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted March 6, 2006 Share Posted March 6, 2006 Its got to be oil every time. Pack the bearings with grease when fiting, though, as this will give a little extra protection and stop innitial dry running. The other advantage is that oil can easily be changed and a small amount of water ingress in the large volume of oil won't cause a massive loss of performace over a short period of time (normally the trip back form an event). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted March 6, 2006 Share Posted March 6, 2006 Land Rover have and always have to my knowedge recomended Lithum [sp] based grease. I have always used grease without any problems. One of the problems with wheel bearing today is caused the fitting of disc brakes.No longer can you remove the wheel and hub together on a service and pack the bearings with grease people don't seem to remove hubs to service wheel bearings. I too like to see some oil in the bearings when I remove a hub.No I don't like those seals halfway down the axle tube,especially on the Salisbury rear axle as it stops the splines getting lubricated by the EP90. Now one of the tricks we used to do with the rally cars to stop water getting in was to fit two hub oil seals. One to keep the grease in,fitted the correct way.The other to keep the water out fitted the wrong way. As a mechanic since the early 1960's I have NEVER used a DTI to set bearings. I use the tin hub nut spanner with a bar through the holes. Tighten the hub nut the slacked off one or two flats until the wheel spins free. Also I try to make sure that the inside nut doesn't move when the outer nut is fitted. End of sermon.... I eat rat poison mike I can cause trouble in an empty house !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted March 6, 2006 Share Posted March 6, 2006 I use the tin hub nut spanner with a bar through the holes.Tighten the hub nut the slacked off one or two flats until the wheel spins free. Also I try to make sure that the inside nut doesn't move when the outer nut is fitted. Me too. It works just fine. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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