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Bling or brill, 8274 end plate ?


Boothy

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After getting frustrated at the price of a replacement end plate for my rear 8274, it was time to start overcoming the lack of good second hand parts with a bit of fabricating, made in tool steel and then zinc passivated, only because I love zinc finishes

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Here's a photo of the broken one which was caused by using the rear winch as a centre winch and pulling at daft angle, 90 degrees to what it should, instead of going out through the hawse I'd threaded it up to the top of the cage which resulted in the casting being broken, my fault.

Hopefully the replacement IF used that way again (until centre winch fitted) it should be a lot stronger.

Thoughts please lads.

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After getting frustrated at the price of a replacement end plate for my rear 8274, it was time to start overcoming the lack of good second hand parts with a bit of fabricating, made in tool steel and then zinc passivated, only because I love zinc finishes

IMG_0190.jpg

IMG_0191.jpg

IMG_0192.jpg

IMG_0194.jpg

Here's a photo of the broken one which was caused by using the rear winch as a centre winch and pulling at daft angle, 90 degrees to what it should, instead of going out through the hawse I'd threaded it up to the top of the cage which resulted in the casting being broken, my fault.

Hopefully the replacement IF used that way again (until centre winch fitted) it should be a lot stronger.

Thoughts please lads.

As usual you have just lashed somthing together in a rush with no thought,

:P:P:P:P

Nice job, should'nt have no trouble with that,

Carl.

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Looks a proper job Carl. Very nice bit of work. Sure there will be requests for a few coming your way! Now I have an end plate but need the little plastic bush for it. Any ideas anyone?

Got one from Gigglepin just a couple of weeks ago, all the usual suspects should be able to supply

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When I damaged mine I tried to have a replica made out of steel but the cost was scary.

I did draw (and I would) add a fin to the original design to prevent the wire rope to jump out again.

Nothing new as I saw it on Barry Pluckrose's Ibex years ago (on a mag, never seen the real truck sadly).

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An idea ive always wanted to see is an end plate made with a proper sealed bearing pressed into the end support to remove the friction you find on an 8274 whilst trying to pull the rope out on free spool. i think gigglepin do this on the gp84s.

i know itll only cure half the problem but anything is better than nothing. and you can used a bearing with double lip seal to keep the carp out and im guessing a bearing will be cheaper than a warn replacement bush.

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This is the idea along the lines that I was going down but the cost of the bearing was approx £60 - £70 plus the drum will also need machining because a bearing is not available in that size, so now it starts becoming an expensive affair.

So remove the drum turn a stubby shaft with an outside diameter of 50mm fit the stub inside the newly turned off end of the drum leaving enough sticking out to fit the bearing to, tig it up neatly, drill staight through the drum to anchor the rope, and machine end plate to take outer size of 50mm bearing.

Then stand back think its hardly made any difference to the freespool because the stiffness is caused by the resistance of the gears, and then realise you've just done a s**tload off work for absolutely minimal advantage, and sit and have a miserable day realising how much trouble and expense that idea has cost you.

If your modding a drum or extending it and making an endplate at the same time then all well and good but if not I cannot see the advantage against the work involved.

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This is the idea along the lines that I was going down but the cost of the bearing was approx £60 - £70 plus the drum will also need machining because a bearing is not available in that size, so now it starts becoming an expensive affair.

So remove the drum turn a stubby shaft with an outside diameter of 50mm fit the stub inside the newly turned off end of the drum leaving enough sticking out to fit the bearing to, tig it up neatly, drill staight through the drum to anchor the rope, and machine end plate to take outer size of 50mm bearing.

Then stand back think its hardly made any difference to the freespool because the stiffness is caused by the resistance of the gears, and then realise you've just done a s**tload off work for absolutely minimal advantage, and sit and have a miserable day realising how much trouble and expense that idea has cost you.

If your modding a drum or extending it and making an endplate at the same time then all well and good but if not I cannot see the advantage against the work involved.

Boothy, I think a lot of the resistance isn't the gears themselves it's just the fact a that they all flop about (litterally) in the case and not all are on bearings - with an 8074 freespool does actually work rather well :) . I had a standard endplate modded to take a bearing and I have used it on my modded 8074. The real problem with this is that you can't get a bearing that's a straight fit into the stock end plate. My solution was to have the bush face tigged up and remachined so the opening was, from memory, 4mm smaller in diameter. It would then take a standard sized bearing. As I was having a new drum made anyway modifying the end of the drum wasn't an issue...

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