Godlykepower Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 OK, sorry to start a new thread for this, especially as I started one last night trying to identify the cause of a sound, but I need help VERY quickly, and need people to see this thread now. I developed a clonking noise last night, see my "weird noise" thread for the description. I thought I would investigate further today & took my old boy for a drive around the grounds of the flat. It certainly sounded like the handbrake as people suggested, but a moment later the rear prop has come adrift of the diff, and it looks like something has sheared off going into the diff. The prop is just turning in my hand, and when i try to pull away it just spins around knocking the chassis. My problem is I have blocked access to & from the flats, and I have no drive to move it into my parking space. Can someone please tell me what I have to do to get it moving again, as it wont budge when I try to push it. Please help, quite urgent. Martin 07929 865 055 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 Get your spanners out, take off the rear prop, put it in diff-lock and nurse it back home gently. Edit: Or, if the prop has come off the rear diff completely, then you may be able to very very gently drive back in diff-lock with the prop still attatched, just make sure it doesn't flail around and destroy everything under the vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crwoody Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 Engaging the centre diif lock will give you front wheel drive with no rear prop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godlykepower Posted November 22, 2009 Author Share Posted November 22, 2009 OK, thanks....I have managed to get it back to my parking space (thankfully only had to go about 40 metres!).... ....but what is the problem though? What exactly is the part that has snapped? Is it a prop problem, or a diff problem? Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 could be one of 2 things Rear UJ has sheared diff pinion shaft has sheared add a photo if possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godlykepower Posted November 22, 2009 Author Share Posted November 22, 2009 I was thinking of getting a photo Ralph, but as luck would have it, it has started tipping it down, and I dont feel like getting underneath again right now! I dont think it is the UJ though, it seems to be something going INSIDE the diff from the prop. What would be the cause of this diff pinion shaft going? It just came out of nowhere this proble, the vehicle was great last time I drove it, and next thing this..... ......is this gonna cost me an arm and a leg??!!! Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 sounds like the pinion shaft [the part the propshaft is connected too] has broken you should be able to obtain another 2nd hand rear diff fairly easily or talk to Steve at Crowndiffs for a rebuilt unit, my front diff came from him, very quick service & he knows his stuff. will cost about a arm, mine was 149 inc vat/carriage IIRC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 Remove the rear prop, and see if you can inspect the condition of the diff's drive flange. Is it a 90 or 110? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 it's a 90. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 Well that's good, means you'll be able to more easily pull the rear diff from the axle casing and inspect for damage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godlykepower Posted November 22, 2009 Author Share Posted November 22, 2009 Managed to get a couple of pictures. = propshaft = diff = propshaft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 EDIT: Yes, that's definitely sheared!! you need a new diff, or at least one with a pinion in one piece! You posted those pics whilst I was typing the below. If it really is the diff pinion, a second hand diff will get you up and running for around 50 quid, and it's only an hour or so to change it. I'd have expected to find a shredded UJ though, rather than a sheared shaft. If the shaft really has sheared then it's really been a ticking time bomb, they don't just fail like that on a whim, in my experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 that's a very dead pinion shaft, quickest fix is another diff either 2nd hand or a rebuilt one [with a 12 month warranty] don't even think of driving it any further, the pinion has moved inside the diff & probaly locked it up, damaged the crown gear teeth. up on axle stands & start pulling the halfshafts out, remove dead diff & clean out any busted gear teeth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godlykepower Posted November 22, 2009 Author Share Posted November 22, 2009 Excellent. Just what I need in my life right now the cost of a replacement diff. I lost my job a couple of months ago, and even though I have accepted a new position, I have not yet started & money is extremely tight right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 Excellent. Just what I need in my life right now the cost of a replacement diff. I lost my job a couple of months ago, and even though I have accepted a new position, I have not yet started & money is extremely tight right now. Post a Wanted, someone will have someting tucked away in a shed ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 Yep, go with Errol's suggestion, somebody will have one, make sure you specify the model year of your 90. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 hi Martin if you pull the halfshafts , remove shaft from cap and replace caps ( to stop oil/grease leaking out of the wheel brgs) and remove the rear prop completely the vehicle is driveable in centre difflock for as long as you need to... I have spare diffs here if you need to sort it quickly - pay me later , can do it with you if you want to come over You were super lucky that didn't fly off at road speed mate cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmy511 Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 second hand diff, 40 quid. changing the diff, an hour max. its very simple to do, 1: Drain the oil from the diff. 2: remove both half shafts (unbolting the drive flanges and slide the shafts out). 3: Remove the 9/16th nuts from around the diff, carefully move the breakpipe mounting plate up and out of the way. 4: CAREFULLY pull/lever the diff out from the axle and get a good hold of it as theyre heavy when your layed on your back. 5: rebuild in the reverse order above. 6: refill the diff with EP 80/90 oil. 7: remove the old drive flange from the prop and re-fit the prop. Job done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godlykepower Posted November 22, 2009 Author Share Posted November 22, 2009 Guys, thanks ever so much for the help so far. It is always heart-warming when complete strangers make offers such as I have had so far! I have had a look at the Crown Diffs website via the link Ralph gave me, and some of the pictures on that website make me see a little clearer, what my problem is. I am going to ring my garage tomorrow, and get their opinion as to what to do. They will probably have a diff knocking about that I can have, and they will either talk me through what I can do myself to get mobile again, or come and tow me. I dont really feel very confident doing anything like this on my own yet, but I think that it would be a super opportunity to further get in practice for doing stuff like this when I am on the road next year. What would cause something like this? Is there any chance the front diff might be heading in the same direction? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 Rear diff is a doddle to replace Don't pay someone to do a job that is very easy. use a gasket or RTV as sealant on the replacement diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean f Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 As has been said this really is one of the simplest repair jobs, no need to pay some one to do it for you. If you want to be doing your own repairs on the road this is a good place to start. If you are on good terms with a local garage who can supply a replacement diff and point out what you need to do that makes life even easier. The desription of how to do the job given earlier is spot on, I would only add make sure the wheels are chocked in place as the handbrake works on the rear prop so if this isn't connected the handbrake won't work unless your are in diff lock (I assume the diff lock is still in from recovering the vehicle). The diff can be difficult to get out as it is heavy and space is restricted under the vehicle if you are working on your back, but nothing a bit of swearing won't fix, the difficulty is with physically moving it not any complexity. I have replaced a rear diff in under 15 minutes during a comp although we never drained the diff just pulled it out and let the oil drop (into a tray) and used an electric impact driver to undo the nuts. Have a read of the Haynes manuel it explains it all quite well. Your a bit away from me otherwise I would come over and point you in the right direction. The failure looks like metal fatigue, I would guess the nut has been over torqued or a manufacturing fault that has taken till now to grow to the point of failure. If you examine the fractured face and see signs of rust or corrosion then the crack has been there a while slowly growing. Its no something that could be detected easily with out a full strip down and very carefull inspection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godlykepower Posted November 22, 2009 Author Share Posted November 22, 2009 I dont especially WANT to have to pay someone to do it (and cant really afford to anyway). But I dont have enough confidence to do it on my own without someone at least looking over my shoulder, who I can at least call on for support if I feel I need it. I dont have anywhere to work other than my small allocated parking space, and a minimal of tools available to work with. Dont suppose there is anyone: a) Close to Bedford tomorrow that wants to come round. b) Has a working Diff available for me for not a lot of money. I totally agree though that this would be a great place to carry on with my learning more about LR mechanics, that will stand me in good stead for the trip. Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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