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Just re-read the whole build thread again Jason, you should be very proud of the beauty you have created :D.

Even more inspired to build my own trailer, but I am thinking more along the teardrop type as you know :).

Have you got any drawings/dimensions of the Sankey chassis? what is the height of floor to top of chassis? I want to start some mock-ups in Catia.

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Cheers Ross,

The best measurements I ever got were actually on here posted by Madcowz the height is dependant on the tyres although the general height to the top of the rail is around 30 inches.

I looked at building a tear drop at first and probably still will at some time, I read loads of stuff on teardrop forums and the expedition portal including a great build

Sawtooth XL Trailer build one thing that I did note is that the biggest complaint is that people built them to small i.e. they were around our height so built a 6ft bed and found that it was unconformable especially given that they are often narrower than a standard bed or airbed so you don't have as much room to curl up.

Clearly you wouldn't want the wood to overhang the chassis as that would end in tears very quickly (no pun intended) so given that the load bed on a Sankey would not give you enough space without seriously adding to the trailer clearly lots of people have altered theirs including the great trailer that Chris build.

However with all that said, if I was going to build a teardrop I wouldn't use a Sankey MK3 as my base chassis but a Rapier or Sankey 1 ton it would be a great base trailer the suspension/height is adjustable it uses a LR PCD so you can keep the same wheels as your truck but you get a 4ftx8ft load bed which would give you the space required without major alterations. as you can probably guess from the above I was very close to building one and may still do one day!!

Jason.

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Cheers Ross,

The best measurements I ever got were actually on here posted by Madcowz the height is dependant on the tyres although the general height to the top of the rail is around 30 inches.

I looked at building a tear drop at first and probably still will at some time, I read loads of stuff on teardrop forums and the expedition portal including a great build

Sawtooth XL Trailer build one thing that I did note is that the biggest complaint is that people built them to small, The makers were around our height and they built a 6ft bed later findingd that it was unconformable especially given that they are often narrower than a standard bed or airbed so you don't have as much room to curl up.

Clearly you wouldn't want the wood to overhang the chassis as that would end in tears very quickly (no pun intended) so given that the load bed on a Sankey would not give you enough space without seriously adding to the trailer clearly lots of people have altered theirs including the great trailer that Chris build.

However with all that said, if I was going to build a teardrop I wouldn't use a Sankey MK3 as my base chassis but a Rapier or Sankey 1 ton it would be a great base trailer the suspension/height is adjustable it uses a LR PCD so you can keep the same wheels as your truck but you get a 4ftx8ft load bed which would give you the space required without major alterations. as you can probably guess from the above I was very close to building one and may still do one day!!

Jason.

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The quality is really good the poles are strong but lightweight thick walled aluminium they all fit into the bag that the awning is built into, only strange thing is the tent pegs now I am sure someone is going to tell me they are designed for sand or something but pre-bent pegs will not work for most things and will need to be replaced with something more suitable.

with regard to the curious tentpegs ..... they are non-trip tentpegs. How many times have you tripped over a tentpeg in the dark when returning from the pub. Hammer them in flat to the ground and they will disappear until you come to leave the campsite. To remove them I pull on the guy rope with one hand to lift the end and then use the peg extractor with the other hand to remove the peg. I've never had one of these pegs pull out on it's own regardless of the weather as they also provide a degree of flex, through the elbow, that a normal straight tentpeg doesn't.

Enjoying your thread btw. I plan to start my own build this autumn as a winter project so I'm voraciously consuming as much info as I can on other people's builds.

cheers .. Paul

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with regard to the curious tentpegs ..... they are non-trip tentpegs. How many times have you tripped over a tentpeg in the dark when returning from the pub. Hammer them in flat to the ground and they will disappear until you come to leave the campsite. To remove them I pull on the guy rope with one hand to lift the end and then use the peg extractor with the other hand to remove the peg. I've never had one of these pegs pull out on it's own regardless of the weather as they also provide a degree of flex, through the elbow, that a normal straight tentpeg doesn't.

Enjoying your thread btw. I plan to start my own build this autumn as a winter project so I'm voraciously consuming as much info as I can on other people's builds.

cheers .. Paul

Thanks Paul,

I thought there would be a logical reason for them out there, however I did try using them but had great difficulty banging them in!! In the end I got some big heavy duty pegs they are about 1/4inch thick and go into any ground.

I notice that you are in Berkshire if you ever want to pop over to take a look just let me know, good look with your project anyway make sure you post lots of photos on here otherwise Ross will get upset!!

Jason.

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Cheers Ross,

The best measurements I ever got were actually on here posted by Madcowz the height is dependant on the tyres although the general height to the top of the rail is around 30 inches.

I looked at building a tear drop at first and probably still will at some time, I read loads of stuff on teardrop forums and the expedition portal including a great build

Sawtooth XL Trailer build one thing that I did note is that the biggest complaint is that people built them to small, The makers were around our height and they built a 6ft bed later findingd that it was unconformable especially given that they are often narrower than a standard bed or airbed so you don't have as much room to curl up.

Clearly you wouldn't want the wood to overhang the chassis as that would end in tears very quickly (no pun intended) so given that the load bed on a Sankey would not give you enough space without seriously adding to the trailer clearly lots of people have altered theirs including the great trailer that Chris build.

However with all that said, if I was going to build a teardrop I wouldn't use a Sankey MK3 as my base chassis but a Rapier or Sankey 1 ton it would be a great base trailer the suspension/height is adjustable it uses a LR PCD so you can keep the same wheels as your truck but you get a 4ftx8ft load bed which would give you the space required without major alterations. as you can probably guess from the above I was very close to building one and may still do one day!!

Jason.

The rapier trailer seems to be a much better base than a sankey for a Teardrop... but I think it would still be to short. My designs seem to have settled on having a 3m long internal space and having an overall width of about 1.6-1.7m (same width as the 90).

Did you look into making your own chassis Jason? I can't seem to find any rules against it, but have heard here that you can't?

PS: I've read the sawtooth XL build quite a few times now!!

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The rapier trailer seems to be a much better base than a sankey for a Teardrop... but I think it would still be to short. My designs seem to have settled on having a 3m long internal space and having an overall width of about 1.6-1.7m (same width as the 90).

Did you look into making your own chassis Jason? I can't seem to find any rules against it, but have heard here that you can't?

PS: I've read the sawtooth XL build quite a few times now!!

Hi Ross,

I did consider making my own chassis but I think its a bit of a can of worms much like the SVA/IVA laws, In 2009 (Linky) EU law appeared to lay down a type approval process for trailers whether this is intended for all trailers or just shop build ones I don't know and couldn't find out UK law does not appear to require a type approved trailer in types O1 & O2 (750kg & 3.5t) for use on UK roads but refers more to the construction and use regulations for use on UK roads although I do know that other European countries have adopted more of these regulations into their road law, In the UK it is just not as clear as say the law requiring a tow bar post 98 to carry a type approval/sticker.

I spoke to the chap from VOSA about my Sankey and all he confirmed was that as it was constructed in 1992 all my trailer needed to meet the C&U regulations and also the trailer lighting regulations but apart from that if I wanted to alter the chassis there was no process for approving that work (no points system to define when it needed to go through the type approval system like with an IVA) and providing it was "safe" and therefore met with the C&U regulations VOSA would be happy altering the lights/fitting marker lights and fitting a breakaway cable ticked all of these boxes so I was happy.

As I say I am no expert and I am sure I someone will correct me, but that's all I could find out. I still think it would be easier to buy an existing trailer and alter it for your use for three reasons:

  1. As the Rapier is basically box section it would be fairly easy to adjust and would 'probably/potentially' get you around any C&U issues as it would be a pre 2009 trailer and there does not appear to be any 'points system' for re-classification.
  2. Trailer bits are expensive and by the time you had got all of the bits you needed and figured it out, Axel, suspension, braking system and lights you could have purchased and altered a pre-built trailer
  3. Military trailers are exceptionally well built over specified and would go around the world several time, dropped out of planes etc, serviced correctly they will outlast most things.

I would think it would be a fairly easy job to extend the chassis to meet your requirements, and would definitely explore this route before making a ground up one.

Jason.

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  • 2 weeks later...

About to take the trailer properly off road this weekend at Slab so will find out if there are any issues before we head off for our holidays, with time to fix it if it all goes wrong!! which leads me to yet another question what tyre pressure should I run? I use the same tyres/wheels as the Landy and currently run it at 35psi which is good for the road but should I drop them for off road?

Jason.

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Finished the 'Last Phase' of testing today, we went along to the Shire Land Rover Club, pay & play day at Slab Common, we wanted to get as close to travel weight as possible so took some extra water with us as ballast.

The trailer behaved nearly as planned and beyond all my plans, my biggest fear is that it would be a big ground anchor and would restrict our travels, I couldn't have been more wrong, we got stuck twice but would have got stuck even if the trailer was not there as had grounded out the front axle of the Landy in deep water ruts, I am very happy to take it anywhere. I run General Grabber M&S tyres which are not aggressive but coped with towing trailer with no issues, the TC was kicking in a fair bit but that's what it's there for!! and will come on with just the 110.

The other bit I needed to get my head around was ramp over angles and more importantly the ramp in angles I needn't have worried my noggin with this, as my original maths was spot on it didn't come together with the LR at any point the receiver hitch additional length gives plenty of room....

We tested the trailer far beyond anything I would do overlanding as I would not take that level of risk in the middle of nowhere but that was the point of today to see what and more importantly what it couldn't do.

The two snags that we came across were:

1. I managed to loose (was reunited with a bent version of it later) the number plate, I had figured out that it was in the protection zone of the trailer zone (where the legs are) however in ruts it managed to become detached!!! so clearly a redesign is required!! oh well at least I got my plate back!!

2. The water tank leaks out of the filler cap on steep inclines not sure why this happens I think it is around the breather pipe and I need to address this to keep the water where it should be as this is fairly important!!

Except from the two points above I am a very happy person and as TJ said "If I didn't have something to fix I wouldn't be happy with the test"

So all in all I am a very happy man, I will report back on the number plate change and the tank fix but after that the next stop is two weeks overlanding!!biggrin.gif

Jason

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One of the best things that has happened whilst building the trailer has been the people I have met and the advice I have been given either through the forum or would you believe it via ebay!!! This thread has been my way of passing a lot of this information back and anyone that has wanted to come and see the trailer or ask questions has been welcome as was I when I started the project.

One of the people I met via e-bay was Quintin, he first phoned me up when I was selling some bits off my second trailer, he wanted to buy it as a whole but I convinced him not to buy it as it would cost him more to get the bits than it would for a trailer from Withams, I know stupid I could have sold the whole thing but I'm just not like that!! Despite talking him out of buying the trailer off me he still came over to take some measurements and look at my build.

I was able to help him where I could and when I started to brake the second trailer he came over and brought a few of the brake bits and the jockey wheel, I then met him again at Billing where I had gone with another chap (Dennis) who lives near me and is again building a Sankey based trailer again with everyone giving hints and tips to each other.

Anyway Quintin has been busy and today sent me a photo of his build so far, his build looks great using a Quadtec body on an unmodified MK3 Chassis, I have found is everyone has a different idea, around both what there needs are, and what they want to create a very different concept to my build but non the less a great looking trailer.

Jason.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Starting to pack and run up the trailer in preparation for our next trip, the fridge and freezer have been on and the battery charger is doing it's stuff its a bit warm at the moment and long story short, it got too hot the charger shut down followed by the fridge although I am not sure if this was heat of battery drop but clearly would not have been good form.

Glad it happened now and not in the middle of somewhere a lot warmer as that could have messed things up!! earlier in this thread I did question about a fridge running in a sealed black box, well I have my answer and have just had to order two Flettner van vents which I will fit at the weekend hopefully this resolve these issues!!

Jason.

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Thanks for the spot Paul, my problem is the vents need to go under the roof tent at the back of the trailer to extract from the area that needs it and there is only a limited amount of space the solar ones would be very close to the underside of the tent and I don't think would work that efficiently hence the low profile Flettner ones. My understanding is that they will turn with the trailer stopped but clearly not as well.

Adding Solar is down as a 'future project' so will be doing some learnings around that soon, I have also ordered a PC type 12v fan which is a really low wattage which I intend to fit inside to move air around the electrical area as currently it is fairly enclosed hence the issue with the charging unit.

Jason.

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I think dust will be a problem with the PC fans. They won't last long if they get Fech Fech or sand in them. I'd do a bit of research and buy a very standard size so it can be replaced. Take a look at RS components for some significantly more expensive industrial fans. Might give you some ideas.

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I think dust will be a problem with the PC fans. They won't last long if they get Fech Fech or sand in them. I'd do a bit of research and buy a very standard size so it can be replaced. Take a look at RS components for some significantly more expensive industrial fans. Might give you some ideas.

The PC fan will not be exposed to the elements and will just be used to push air from the electrical charging area which is currently enclosed behind the microwave/electrical panel I will wire it up so that it's only on when the trailer is hooked up to the mains so will just push air around the inside of the trailer, the two roof fans should take care of the ventilation for the fridge and freezer and have filters attached to them so dust shouldn't be able to get into the area.

I had two problems really, I have caused myself is the trailer is very well sealed against dust/water ingress and therefore there is no air movement and things are overheating so hopefully the roof vents should sort this out, the second is that I don't like wires and therefore hid the inverter/charger and connections behind a panel and didn't give enough thought to the ventilation of these bits hence the PC fan.

Jason.

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The two Flettner 2000 roof vents turned up today and were promptly fitted I wanted to fit them above the fridge but would have had to make big holes in the inside to fit the filters so change of plan and I moved them to the leading edge of the tent were there is no wood between the roof and the trailer lining. they were fairly simply to fit, 100mm metal hole saw sorted the hole out but they were designed to fit flat van roofs not 3mm chequer plate so the bolts didn't fit, I am not sure how they would fit if the metal was paper thin!! They seem to work well and were turning round in wind this evening so I think they will do the job, I was not overly happy with the filters that came with them as they would not have stopped dust so I got some filter membrane that is used in cooker hoods a quick trim and job's a good un.

The other fan is also working well shifting the hot air from the charger into the trailer and drawing through cooler air, we are all packed and ready to go I went over the trailer tonight re-greasing things and checking everything is tight, the trailer is fully loaded tanks full etc and it is sitting the lowest I have seen it but about 6 inches off the bump stops so plenty of give tried to calculate the loaded weight and I think its getting on for around 850kg!! but there is 50kg of food 150kg of water (75kg tank 75kg bottled water) the bottled will be shifted into the Landy after we stick the bedding in the roof tents so happy with that.

Full report on our return.

Jason.

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Good luck Jason, I look forward to reading about your trailer experiences.

Mo

Cheers Mo,

However if it does not work out Mrs S may leave me in the mountains!! As she has had nearly 2 years of me 'selling her the dream' So if I don't re-appear on here in three weeks time can you let someone know!!

Jason.

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Jason,

Very envious of what you have built and the adventures you are going to have with that, very nice job, and have a good'un! :)

Pete.

Cheers Pete, if a simple fool like me can build one anyone can!!!

Jason.

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Where are you off to and when ?

We are only off to the Pyrenees for 3 weeks it is my first trip with the family as I normally go on my own/with mates but Mrs S has decided she wants to come hence the trailer build, it's the trailers first big trip so a bit apprehensive!!

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Ah it'll be fine....just remeber to say a nice word to her every 100 miles or so. I mean the trailer and 110, not the missus.:P

If you're worried, how do you think i feel ??? We're leaving for two years in two months and we are sleeping in the back. At the moment i'm more worried that the damn web site is offline.....bloody DNS records.

It will all go fine. Chance favours the prepared (mind) Land Rover.

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