JJB Serenity Posted December 20, 2009 Share Posted December 20, 2009 Evening, I'm a newbie on here although I've had my 200 Tdi Defender 90 for about a year now. I'm a bit of a green laning enthusiast although regularly break the cardinal sin of 'laning on my own. I have paid the price recently (stuck at the bottom of a deep ditch, being propped up by a tree!) and have suffered a bit of panel damage (it was a matter of time really!). I want to make a few improvements over the next few years, notably some decent A/T tyres and new wheels, a winch, snorkel etc. I am learning to do repairs myself bit by bit but really only have a very basic knowledge of mechanics and such. I'm pretty lucky to have a very helpful Landy mechanic over my way though and if he thinks you can do something yourself he will tell you how to do it over the phone. Looking forward to having a natter with a few of you about land rovers John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted December 20, 2009 Share Posted December 20, 2009 Welcome John, I'm sure you'll find all you need to know here Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 20, 2009 Share Posted December 20, 2009 Welcome John, have a read through the Tech Archive index articles, loads of great stuff in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJB Serenity Posted December 23, 2009 Author Share Posted December 23, 2009 Cheers guys. There's loads of good stuff on here and I'm sure the tech section will come in handy again and again and again. My Landy started pulling to the right quite a lot yesterday. Track rod is a bit out of shape, it's obviously taken a bit of a whack. My wheels are slightly out of line but can't get it seen to til January now. Bumma Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suggs Posted December 24, 2009 Share Posted December 24, 2009 welcome aboard mate, you will get all the help and advice you need here, plus make some good mates.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted December 24, 2009 Share Posted December 24, 2009 My Landy started pulling to the right quite a lot yesterday. Track rod is a bit out of shape, it's obviously taken a bit of a whack. My wheels are slightly out of line but can't get it seen to til January now. Bumma Try pulling it straight with a rachet strap or some sort of winch. I had to do the same once when I wrapped mine around a tree trunk, made for an interesting drive down the track with the wheels pointing in different directions! Only really good for a temporary repair of course, but should see you through. Oh, and welcome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJB Serenity Posted February 25, 2010 Author Share Posted February 25, 2010 Ended up getting a new track rod put on but it was still pulling to the right. I had a go at fixing the tracking myself and I'm quite pleased with the results. It still needs a touch of steer to the left if there is a bit of camber on the road but it is much improved. going to have the steering looked at soon I think, I have a bit of play on the steering wheel and am not convinced my front wheels are properly aligned. they seem to look like this \----/ although (obviously) not that bad. first things first tho and that is a new clutch. my clutch pedal is sooo stiff it's rediculous! I keep getting air in my clutch fluid and have had to bleed it twice recently (which has actually made the clutch pedal a bit lighter for about 10 mins. then it goes really hard again!) My local Landy repair chap said my clutch mechanism is probably a bit knackered and will need a new clutch soon so I'm saving my pennies. anyway, thanks for all the welcomes chat soon JB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 The clutch mechanism wouldn't put air in the system - I would look at the slave cylinder first. If you have any sign of fluid weeping down the clutch pedal, or under the bonnet from the master cylinder location, then that would be the culprit. Stiff pedal could be a few things - pedal pivot shaft siezing, slave cylinder piston sticking in the bore, or thrust bearing binding on the guide sleeve inside the bellhousing. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJB Serenity Posted February 25, 2010 Author Share Posted February 25, 2010 The clutch mechanism, wouldn't put air in the system - I would look at the slave cylinder first. If you have any sign of fluid weeping down the clutch pedal, or under the bonnet from the master cylinder location, then that would be the culprit. Stiff pedal could be a few things - pedal pivot shaft siezing, slave cylinder piston sticking in the bore, or thrust bearing binding on the guide sleeve inside the bellhousing. Les. thanks Les, though it should have read the clutch mechanism is ALSO probably knackered (in relation to the stiffness of the clutch). Not sure why air is getting in to be honest, the slave cylinder seems fine (although only by my newbie assessment). No fluid down the clutch pedal or under the bonnet either. Thanks for the advice about the things that could be causing the stiff pedal. If I get brave enough I will take it apart to have a look. Might be a bit beyond my skill at the moment, have only just mastered the basics if it ones of those three things, would I still require a full clutch change or just replacement parts? Many thanks for your help JB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CountryGent Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 Hey there fellow Newbie As you see you'll get LOADS of great advice from every one..been very useful for me.. CG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJB Serenity Posted February 25, 2010 Author Share Posted February 25, 2010 Hey there fellow Newbie As you see you'll get LOADS of great advice from every one..been very useful for me.. CG Cheers CG! How long have you been owned by your landy? I've had mine for just over a year now, not learning as quickly as I'd planned to to be honest but that's due to a lack of time more than lack of enthusiasm. In fact Ive done more damage than good so far!! JB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 A slave cylinder seal that's partly worn out will suck air in when the pedal is released, but not leak fluid out when the pedal is pressed. However, a tiny amount of fluid will manage to get out after time, but be retained within the dust cover until the seal weakens further. Pry the dust cover back off of the slave cylinder body, and if a small amount of fluid then drips out - there's the problem A leaky slave cylinder will not be siezing-up, so will not be the cause of the stiff pedal, but may alter the bite point, which could then cause it because the mechanism is then operating at a 'new' position. If you find you have a faulty master or slave cylinder, then cure that and see what effect it has on clutch operation. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJB Serenity Posted February 25, 2010 Author Share Posted February 25, 2010 A slave cylinder seal that's partly worn out will suck air in when the pedal is released, but not leak fluid out when the pedal is pressed. However, a tiny amount of fluid will manage to get out after time, but be retained within the dust cover until the seal weakens further. Pry the dust cover back off of the slave cylinder body, and if a small amount of fluid then drips out - there's the problem A leaky slave cylinder will not be siezing-up, so will not be the cause of the stiff pedal, but may alter the bite point, which could then cause it because the mechanism is then operating at a 'new' position. If you find you have a faulty master or slave cylinder, then cure that and see what effect it has on clutch operation. Les. nice one, cheers Les. I'm doing my oil change this weekend so while I have my landy on it's axle stands I'll have a look at the slave cylinder. Is it difficult to replace if need be? Say for example on a scale of one to ten changing oil filter and replacing the oil (my benchmark) is a 1 out of 10, how does changing the slave cylinder compare? thanks again JB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 Is it difficult to replace if need be? Say for example on a scale of one to ten changing oil filter and replacing the oil (my benchmark) is a 1 out of 10, how does changing the slave cylinder compare? Depends what a 10 is to you: assuming a 10 is the trickiest job ever, its a 2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJB Serenity Posted February 25, 2010 Author Share Posted February 25, 2010 Depends what a 10 is to you: assuming a 10 is the trickiest job ever, its a 2. cheers errol. the last time I changed a wheel it took me over an hour to get the wheel off, so I'd say it's probably more like a 5 for me then ps I now have a telescopic wheelnut remover! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 telescopic wheelnuts Show off If the brake line has rusted in and you're afraid of the springs it could be an 8. I was trying to think of a "10" job, but I couldn't Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJB Serenity Posted February 25, 2010 Author Share Posted February 25, 2010 Les, just read your article on replacing the slave cylinder and I reckon I'll give it a go. looks fiddly cause I know how awkward it is to get to to bleed let alone remove and replace, but I reckon it's do-able. I'll try it when the weather picks up (no garage ) Thanks for the help chaps JB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 Depends what a 10 is to you: assuming a 10 is the trickiest job ever, its a 2. Rubbish! 2.5 or maybe 3 On a Defender, the problem is the downpipe in the way, but a good 3/8" or 1/4" drive will help a lot (1/2" being just too bulky to do it comfortably). You have to do the top bolt pretty-much blind, which is no real problem when removing it, but is fiddly when refitting. Steel bolt into an alloy housing, so make sure you don't cross thread the bolt. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJB Serenity Posted February 25, 2010 Author Share Posted February 25, 2010 Rubbish! 2.5 or maybe 3 On a Defender, the problem is the downpipe in the way, but a good 3/8" or 1/4" drive will help a lot (1/2" being just too bulky to do it comfortably). You have to do the top bolt pretty-much blind, which is no real problem when removing it, but is fiddly when refitting. Steel bolt into an alloy housing, so make sure you don't cross thread the bolt. Les. cheers again Les. just out of curiosity, what do you use to turn the nipple when bleeding the clutch? I find I don't have enough room to use a spanner and because i've got a tube over the nipple to stop the fluid from spraying everywhere, I cant use a socket. it gets very messy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 Did my clutch bleed a few days ago, I've got a one man bleed tuvbe with a 1 way valve in the end, 7/16 ring spanner to open/close bleed screw, did it this way -- open bleed screw 1/2 turn, fit bleed tube,valve end into a container to catch expelled fluid, top up master cylinder,pump clutch pedal 4 times, top up master cylinder & repeat a few times, get under vehicle, shut bleed screw, remove tube & container, wipe up any excess fluid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJB Serenity Posted February 25, 2010 Author Share Posted February 25, 2010 Did my clutch bleed a few days ago, I've got a one man bleed tuvbe with a 1 way valve in the end, 7/16 ring spanner to open/close bleed screw, did it this way -- open bleed screw 1/2 turn, fit bleed tube,valve end into a container to catch expelled fluid, top up master cylinder,pump clutch pedal 4 times, top up master cylinder & repeat a few times, get under vehicle, shut bleed screw, remove tube & container, wipe up any excess fluid. i tried one of these but it was just a rubber tube with a slit in the end and was a croad of lap! ended up with more air in my fluid than I had started with that one looks much better, I think I'll invest. cheers fella Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 Show off If the brake line has rusted in and you're afraid of the springs it could be an 8. I was trying to think of a "10" job, but I couldn't Good luck! It helps to read the post properly doesn't it: change "brake" to "hydraulic" line and change the reference to "springs" to "working upside down". I'll admit that changing the clutch slave cylinder might be a three, but my 9 would be getting the broken end of the half shaft out of a back diff without using a trolley jack, ramp or pit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 Use a 7/16" or 11mm socket to 'crack' the bleed nipple, then attach the ring end of the same size spanner to it from above - where you have more room to move it. Get someone to press the pedal, open the nipple and close it again, release the pedal and press it again, open the bleed and close it again, and so-on. Keep an eye on the master cylinder reservoir - it only takes about 5 presses of the pedal to empty it. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJB Serenity Posted February 26, 2010 Author Share Posted February 26, 2010 much obliged fellas, thanks very much! I will have another attempt at bleeding the clutch this weekend and see if it makes a difference. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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