defender dinky Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 hi all, just rebuilt swivel balls oil seals the lot, what's the proper way to set preload, seen something on here before but can't find it cheer's defender dinky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy4x4xfar Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 stick a spring balance on where the track rod joins to the swivel housing. keeping it horizontal and floating. pull the swivel housing unit using the spring balance . it should measure 3 on the spring balance but if its a new seal they sometimes measure just over . thats cause it needs to bed in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 Just in case, you adjust the preload by changing the shims under the top swivel pin. Taking shims out increases the preload. Look in the Tech Archive if there is more information there. Good Luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defender dinky Posted January 19, 2010 Author Share Posted January 19, 2010 stick a spring balance on where the track rod joins to the swivel housing. keeping it horizontal and floating. pull the swivel housing unit using the spring balance . it should measure 3 on the spring balance but if its a new seal they sometimes measure just over . thats cause it needs to bed in. hi, do i jack the corners up and remove wheels on both sides, thanks for your reply, defender dinky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defender dinky Posted January 19, 2010 Author Share Posted January 19, 2010 Just in case, you adjust the preload by changing the shims under the top swivel pin. Taking shims out increases the preload. Look in the Tech Archive if there is more information there. Good Luck hi dave, there was one shim under each side so i put them back as they were, first time for me i'm afraid, thanks for reply defender dinky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 Track rod and drag link off, seals off, you need to be sure you are only measuring the resistance to turn the *bearing* and not the seal/steering gear etc. I would have the caliper off as well as the hoses could influence it. Set it a bit tight, they tend to bed in and go loose after a while Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 Would knackered swivel housing bearing's cause wheel wobble when driving normally, the mach 5's i have have been balanced to death and i still get some wobble from the front end the tyres I'm using on there are general sag's 7.50x16 ,they're not remoulds by the way sorry for hijacking the thread by the way John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 Would knackered swivel housing bearing's cause wheel wobble when driving normally,.... John Yes. Also check for worn hub bearings. It is also possible to mix up the cause of any free play you find. Swivels that have just 'lost' their preload will allow up and down movement, but if only slightly worn this will not be felt, and you are best guided by the pull required, as already described. The shim pack can be adjusted to compensate for this. Swivels that have more wear will not only allow up and down movement, but also side to side movement in the upper bearing. Altering the shim pack will not remove the side to side play, a new bearing (and perhaps pin) will be required. Worn or loose hub bearings will also cause side to side play to be felt. LR swivels are a whole new ball game, with rules that vary depending on what type of swivel bearings you have on your vehicle (Cone and spring, Railko, taper). You can buy shims in different thicknesses, suitable for your vehicle. Always include one or two thin shims in each shim pack you assemble; that way, if (when) the swivel becomes loose after bedding in, you can quickly remove one thin shim for a quick job. Thin means ~3 thou, in this case. Good Luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 it should measure 3 on the spring balance 3 what? pink elephants? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 David, Thank you for your reply-i have recently replaced both front sets of wheel bearings as per the 300tdi defender manuals i have downloaded to my laptop ie: tighten the first lock nut to 50nm then slacking off 90o then re-tighten again to a setting of 10nm, both sets of wheel bearings are Timken and both are brand new, i've replaced both the inner bearing track in the hub with new and also the bearing race itself-instead as i've done in the past just replaced the bearing race to cut corners,however i still am getting slight wobble and the wheels have both been like i've said previous-balanced to death so to speak(i stood and watched them being balanced as i had access to do this at the time)so i know both front wheels are indeed balanced properly I shall when time permits have a look at the bearings and adjust as necessary John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 John, Get someone to hold the foot brake on whilst you check for wobble/play. Holding the brake on will lock the hub to the swivel - stopping any play from the bearing. If you still have play it is much more likely to be coming from the swivel pins, rather than the wheel bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted January 19, 2010 Share Posted January 19, 2010 Cheers Luke-I shall try that once i start looking at it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy4x4xfar Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 hi, do i jack the corners up and remove wheels on both sides, thanks for your reply, defender dinky hi yes you you do need road wheels off and then test it, and just do it to which ever side your working on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 I dont have the numbers, but bear in mind the preload setting depends on wether you have taper bearings top and bottom, or a railko bushed swivel. ISTR, its something like 1Kg for the taper and 4kg for the railko bush, but dont quote that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defender dinky Posted January 22, 2010 Author Share Posted January 22, 2010 hi yes you you do need road wheels off and then test it, and just do it to which ever side your working on. hi,muddy4x4xfar, i have seen something on here somewhere how to test your swivel ball pre loads and i think they used fisherman scale's is that possible if so what would be the correct pressure for the preload, axles are off the motor at the moment complete as i am rebuilding my defender 90, cheer's defender dinky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 At the risk of bashing a 'newbie' (see other thread), first link when you Google 'how to check swivel preload land rover': http://www.fag.hiof.no/~frodehaa/swivelpinpreload.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 Not a bad article. My problem is that you need to torque the top pin nuts up to do the job properly and not mess up the preload by over/undertightening. However, land rover in their wisdom put a brake pipe and its bracket in the way of one of the bolts. There is a fix for this in the tech archive somewhere but i havent got round to it yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy4x4xfar Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 hi,muddy4x4xfar, i have seen something on here somewhere how to test your swivel ball pre loads and i think they used fisherman scale's is that possible if so what would be the correct pressure for the preload, axles are off the motor at the moment complete as i am rebuilding my defender 90, cheer's defender dinky ye thats right it should measure between 1.16kg and 1.46kg it maybe slightlyover if youve just put new seals on (just until they bed in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defender dinky Posted January 22, 2010 Author Share Posted January 22, 2010 At the risk of bashing a 'newbie' (see other thread), first link when you Google 'how to check swivel preload land rover': http://www.fag.hiof.no/~frodehaa/swivelpinpreload.htm hi bowie69, just what i was looking for, well done defender dinky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 No problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted January 23, 2010 Share Posted January 23, 2010 Ahha, that article shows the other set of preloads. So its 5.5-7.3kg for a railko bush'ed axle and the numbers muddy4x4xfar quoted above if its a taper bearing axle. This is important! Using the wrong numbers will either cause premature wear or will have the swivels flapping around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 23, 2010 Share Posted January 23, 2010 Well, if you read the article notes, it is pretty clear: Notes on the job:This job is done on a 1990 model Discovery, but is virtually the same on all coil sprung Land Rovers. ABS-vehicles differ in some respects on the setup, and all torque settings should be checked against the manual for your vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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