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door shut, door locked, door wont unlock,


Guest noggy AKA Mortus

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My friends 90 has us puzzled, the passenger door is locked shut, the key barrel will turn but doesnt make a "click" anymore.

lifting the little lock nob on the inside doesnt unlock it either...

Advice anyone?

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is it possible to remove the door card from the inside and see if a operating rod has dropped off,when I had my 90 reprayed a similar thing happened and I sort of jiggled the inside catch,pulled the knob up and down and pushed the outside button in and out until it eventaly opened! ,the spray shop blamed the old lock but I white greased the lock and rods up and it works fine now

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I'm intimately familiar with the internal working of the door locks and can't imagine its going to be easy to solve this. Western is correct on the likely cause but how do you get at the workings? At the very least the internal handle bezel might give you a view inside. Only one screw to undo lift the leaver and the plastic bezel can be removed. If the door still has the rain shield in place the view might not be very good. There's one single clip thay may have broken meaning the door isn't unlocked as the rod pulling the locking mechanism isn't connected. I've just replaced two on my 110.

All i can say is good luck. You need to get into the inside of the door and it won't be easy.

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probably a broken rod clip or lock part inside the door.

somehow you'll have to persuade the trim panel off to get a look inside.

I have the same problem, also on the passenger side...

Sometimes it unlocks, sometimes it doesn`t.

Any ideas? And how can I take the panel off?? Sure will be fun doing this...

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Hi Noggy, guess what I've just taken all day to unlock my passenger door on the 110. what the guys have said about undone clips may be right but .... I had to cut ahole in the trim paneland use a srew driver to press the latch from the pushbutton down, using the inside handle did not work. I have been advised that the lift up lock inside sometimes goes over the cam and although it moves up and down the lock mechanism still thinks it is locked and niether the pushbutton nor the inner handle will open it. TIP; take the trim off the drivers door and you will be able to see the postion of the linkages fron the pushbutton, (Window up) so you know where to make a hole in the passenger door......

Good Luckrolleyes.gif

Les

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Guest wunntenn

As you are able to access the inside of the vehicle it is possible to use a short hacksaw blade to cut the door catch on the door pillar - takes some sweat but its doable. Then you can remove door panel and fix the problem. The door catch is cheap to replace.

Edit PS I've done it twice now on mine!

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It may be possible to remove the whole door, but you might have to sacrifice the striker plate!

If you can remove the hinge bolts in the bulkhead, the door can be moved out, jiggled etc. You might get it to unlock, or get a right angled driver in to get the striker off. Worst case, cut the striker through.

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Guest wunntenn

My doors wont respond to that - theres a particularly cunningly designed and located metal plate on the inside that neatly holds the door within the frame even with the hinge bolts removed. Its a sensible anti-scrote device to ensure you dont find a door on the drive without a LR attached one morning. Thats why I ended up with the hacksaw!

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So I guess it's not as easy as pulling the rubber trim off the outside bottom edge of the window frame and looking down the gap?

My 110 has the same problem - passenger rear door has the push button stuck in on the handle, won't unlock/open from the inside.

Been like that a while, I just can't be humped putting it right just now, because I know it'll be an arse of a job:(

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Hi All

As the other poster said you can spring the lock with a screwdriver or I use a wire coat hanger and push it into the lock from the inside you may need to push the seat back and fold it flat to get the best angle . You can practice on the other door when its open to see how the mechanism works before tackling the locked one just take you time and it's possible .

hope this helps

Jon

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Hi there,

Mine went like this, a mate slam-locked it (you know holding the button in when you lock it then shutting the door.

The rod from the lock button to the loxk over-centred, so I had to take th einner door pannel off with the door shut.

It's tricky but can be done, taking the seat base out helps then remove window winder, handle, and the other trim bits then I managed to lever the top open enough to get my hand down and un-over centre it, then it opened just fine!!!

Just keep at it and good luck!!!

Jason.

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  • 1 month later...

Happens to my 110 csw rear door all the time. I've found that putting the inside knob down (locked) then whacking the outside of the door with my fist (occasionally foot) and then unlocking from inside works... ok so sometimes i have to do it more than once... increasingly i have to do it more than once... and the door's now dented.

I will get around to fixing it it's just you know oh well... I'll go away now and hang my head in shame.

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  • 11 years later...

Just had the same issue with the driver's door of my 1985 90/Defender. Sight of an appropriate U tube video saved me attacking the door hinges, which also confirmed my belief that I if I had, I would still be left with the door striker attached to the door catch. The issue is the door button, which includes and operates a plastic plunger which activates the door catch via a vertical rocker/seesaw connector.  The door button operates via the connector to move the rod to the actual door catch [as per the video] it needs to be free, and it's movement should release the catch, but it needs it's full movement travel, which will be restricted if the mentioned plunger isn't clear and free. In hindsight, not that I did, but in desperation for a quick result, if correct measurements were taken [I suggest by examination of the other now naked good door] a hole could be drilled from the inside through the door card, and perhaps the inner securing door plate, corresponding with the rocker/seesaw connector to allow lubrication and manipulation. Subject to accuracy, it would only need to be small and could be easily filled and disguised by a grommet.  Well just a thought  . . .

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