Series I brake recommendations?

[bguillory]

I am working on my first LR; a project that I purchased including a 1958 Series 1 88" truck and a 2.5L NA diesel. I see that the brakes are single circuit. Is there an easy way to convert to dual circuit brakes? I have a vacuum pump on the diesel available if that makes a difference. I don't really want to hang a different pedal or cut the fender.

Also any recommendations on replacing the brake lines? I already replaced one with line I got at the auto parts store and a flaring tool. Should I just replace all of it as a matter of course?

Thanks, Brad

[rusty_wingnut]

why go for dual circuit?

You'd be better off overhauling what is there, new lines neatly routed and having the master/wheel cylinder(s) overhauled.

My brakes were done over ten years ago and have never given trouble since.

[landmannnn]

Dual circuits don't make it stop better, they provide backup if one circuit fails.

[western]

& 90/110 brake circuit is split front & rear. whereas RRC & IIRC Discovery are front [on one circuit] & front & rear [on 2nd circuit] thats why the front caliper on RRC & Disco have 2 pipes to each front caliper.

[sean f]

As has been said why go to dual lines.

Wouldn't be easy as the brake master goes under the floor so you can't run a servo (unless you run a remote one). As far as I am aware the later vehicles with dual line you could borrow parts from all had servos so the master cylinders would be different.

The correct master should be a 3 bolt flange one, these are $%&&£ expensive, normal fix is to get a later series 2 one with a 2 bolt flange and redrill the out rigger to take that and save over £100. If you drive off road the master tends to fill with carp and corrode or sieze up quite quickly, mine typically lasted 2 to 3 years but then mine stood around alot and didn't get cleaned as often as it should.

If you want to improve the brakes fit 11" front drums from a LWB or late 88" and a LWB master cylinder to match.

As for the brake lines they are unlikely to be origional at that age so it depends on what they look like, if they all look new leave them alone, if they look corroded change them.

[bguillory]

I understand that dual circuit brakes will not make it stop any better (unless I develop a leak). I was hoping for some additional safety margin. I am scared of using the e-brake at speed. I have already replaced all of the wheel cylinders and I have a kit to rebuild my three bolt master cylinder. Before I did the rebuild I was checking to see if there was something else that made sense.

As far as the brake lines go they were painted just before I got the truck (a previous owner painted the frame) so it is hard to tell their condition.

Can anyone tell me what it takes to fit a D90 master cylinder to a Series 1?

Thank you,

Brad

[Retroanaconda]

A D90 master cylinder wouldn't be a good bet, as it's designed to power disc brakes on the front circuit and drums on the rear. You need to make sure that the cylinder you get is matched to the brake system you have installed.

As far as I could make out when I researched mine, the best Series (non-discs) brake system Land Rover made is the LWB (or late SWB) Series III system. 10" on the rear and 11" twin-leading-shoe on the front. Servo assisted. That's what mine's getting, with an NRC6096 master cylinder and an early 90/110 brake pedal box and servo.

[missingsid]

I understand that dual circuit brakes will not make it stop any better (unless I develop a leak). I was hoping for some additional safety margin. I am scared of using the e-brake at speed. I have already replaced all of the wheel cylinders and I have a kit to rebuild my three bolt master cylinder. Before I did the rebuild I was checking to see if there was something else that made sense.

As far as the brake lines go they were painted just before I got the truck (a previous owner painted the frame) so it is hard to tell their condition.

Can anyone tell me what it takes to fit a D90 master cylinder to a Series 1?

Thank you,

Brad

My Series 1 has LWB twin leading brake on the front and single leading brakes on the rear with a remote servo (some say that this is not needed).

The best thing I did was throw away the old master cylinder and after fitting D90 footwels, fitted Series 2/3 pedal boxes and maaster cylinders.

I also made up a hydraulic clutch systems so that I could get rid of the entire below floor levers.

I am afraid that none of this is simple but it is achievable.

Marc.

[Anderzander]

My 80" has a rebuilt standard set up and will lock up all 4 wheels, more powerful brakes would only do the same with less pedal pressure and probably reduce feel.

[bguillory]

My Series 1 has LWB twin leading brake on the front and single leading brakes on the rear with a remote servo (some say that this is not needed).

The best thing I did was throw away the old master cylinder and after fitting D90 footwels, fitted Series 2/3 pedal boxes and maaster cylinders.

I also made up a hydraulic clutch systems so that I could get rid of the entire below floor levers.

I started a new thread based on this response. Hopefully the moderators will approve it soon.

[bguillory]

My 80" has a rebuilt standard set up and will lock up all 4 wheels, more powerful brakes would only do the same with less pedal pressure and probably reduce feel.

Anderzander, I'm not interested in making the brakes more powerful but more reliable.