FridgeFreezer Posted August 12, 2010 Share Posted August 12, 2010 Also check all the grommets are in place & in good condition where wires pass through holes or over sharp edges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlosbeldia Posted August 12, 2010 Author Share Posted August 12, 2010 Fuse 15 in my car refers to right headlight. I think the fuse that brings energy to instrument cluster are 3 (5A) and 4 (10A). In both case, they are bringing electricity correctly. Down you can see how the car was at the end of my Toroughly fixing try, deeply invasive, as you can see. After all this, I have found that my fuel pump fuse is melting down, do you know what could be the cause (you can see a photo of the fuse at the end): Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 12, 2010 Share Posted August 12, 2010 I'd be surprised if the FP fuse is supposed to be a 30A one, has someone replaced it with a bigger one because the old one blew? There are only so many reasons for it to blow - faulty fuel pump or faulty wiring! I'd leave the dashboard trim off if you're going on a rally, it adds weight* and slows down repairs. * = OK, not much weight, but still... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted August 12, 2010 Share Posted August 12, 2010 Fuse 5 - main, is 30 amps fuse 4 - fuel pump relay is 20 amps If it's melting then too high a current is flowing through it (short circuit), or there's high resistance at this point. I see your TD5 doesn't have a centre console so a bit different then. Don't forget to read all the posts - can only help Did you download the link crwoody posted - it's a complete wiring diagram. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlosbeldia Posted August 12, 2010 Author Share Posted August 12, 2010 Yes, now I have all the wiring diagrams. You don't kknow how thankful I am, not a mechanic, not an electrician could repair it. The weird thing is the fuse don't blow never, it only gets its plastic cover melt down... what could it be Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted August 12, 2010 Share Posted August 12, 2010 (edited) Must be a poor connection on the other side of the fuse holder that is causing a high resistance and heat. The fuse will only blow if the current exceeds the fuse rating. Edited to add, I'd put a 20amp fuse back in there, as this limits what the wiring can safely supply without melting etc. If it blows then you've more problems to trace Edited August 12, 2010 by Gromit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlosbeldia Posted August 12, 2010 Author Share Posted August 12, 2010 Before the 30A, I had a 10A, with no blowing, only melt of plastic. I'll review what you say on the other side... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 Just for clarity: Never never never never never never never never never never never never never replace a fuse with a bigger fuse to solve a problem, unless the problem is that you car isn't on fire enough. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted August 13, 2010 Share Posted August 13, 2010 lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlosbeldia Posted August 13, 2010 Author Share Posted August 13, 2010 Jajajjajaja... OK, Iĺl have that in mind Fridge, thanks a lot. Today I'll be verifying all connections to fuel pump fuse before leaving. Thanks a lot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlosbeldia Posted August 21, 2010 Author Share Posted August 21, 2010 I went and came back with no problem at all. However, yesterday when leaving my office the car suddenly shutdown. I checked the fuse and it was completely melt down. Changed it and it melt down again, really hot in ten minutes. I took out the fuse box, found an exposed cable and taped it, with no result. I tried everything: cleaning, taping wires, voltage checking, etc. Today it worked just fine, no heat at all, no blown fuse, but suddenly the car stops. I moved the relay and fuse until it runned again and took me to the office. Checking the electrical diagram, found there is a earth point for fuel pump, the C0556-1, can anybody help me with a photo or tell me where I can locate it? what else you think it can be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted June 26, 2018 Share Posted June 26, 2018 Im thinking! mine is the fault of the bulb in the fog light being loose. I'm going to check it but this car is a disgrace and very badly engineered. bmw should have taken this and bmwfied it. then it might have a chance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted June 26, 2018 Share Posted June 26, 2018 when a fuse is melting it means that the live feed is shorting to earth or the appliance you are powering is shorted to earth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 15 hours ago, pantherslover said: when a fuse is melting it means that the live feed is shorting to earth or the appliance you are powering is shorted to earth. It means that something after the fuse is taking too much current, not the feed to the fuse shorting (otherwise the fuse would be bypassed and not blow). Whether it is a short or a faulty service unit (motor, switch or whatever is connected tot he circuit) is anyone's guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soutie Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 I used to have similar issues and it was caused by the rear loom running inside the chassis becoming chaffed and then shorting intermittently. It was driving me mad as some days the vehicle worked and then it did not. In the end I had to resort to an car election who discovered this and replaced the loom outside the chassis which solved the issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 4 hours ago, Snagger said: It means that something after the fuse is taking too much current, not the feed to the fuse shorting (otherwise the fuse would be bypassed and not blow). Whether it is a short or a faulty service unit (motor, switch or whatever is connected tot he circuit) is anyone's guess. He doesn’t mean that, he means what he says: the live feed supplied by the fuse or the appliance that it feeds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted June 29, 2018 Share Posted June 29, 2018 On 27/06/2018 at 5:53 PM, Peaklander said: He doesn’t mean that, he means what he says: the live feed supplied by the fuse or the appliance that it feeds. OK, but there's still no way of knowing the cause of the excess current - a seized motor will draw too much current as it has less resistance than a spinning one, resulting in the same fuse blow as a short. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 29, 2018 Share Posted June 29, 2018 If the fuse is really melting (not just blowing) it might mean the fuse holder connection is loose or corroded. Are these glass or blade fuses? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pantherslover Posted July 1, 2018 Share Posted July 1, 2018 HiTim, got it finally, was two earth wires in the opposite side of the tbox to the big earth wire. If forgot to tighten them up. All sorted but now the trailer icon flashes with no indicators or hazards selected. And no trailer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted July 2, 2018 Share Posted July 2, 2018 Well done Ashley; it's not easy to do anything up there so glad you've found it. Now to that trailer lamp fault... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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