Td5 Wiring Info

[Retroanaconda]

So my 110 needs a new bulkhead for when the MOT comes around, and I am considering putting a Td5 one in. With the newer 2002-on dash et all.

Now, I plan in the future to add plenty of other things such as central locking, electric windows etc, so it would be a great help if I could use the Td5 loom as (assuming it's from a county model) it will have all the gubbins for this already in place.

I am not worried about tracing all the wiring through, the Td5 wiring diagrams are reasonably simple, but my main concern is whether the Td5 loom will function without the ECU and 10AS modules etc. Instruments I can sort, but are things like the central locking / electric windows etc. controlled by the 10AS or are they independant systems?

The other option is to re-use my 200Tdi loom, moving certain things to match the later dash (hazard light switch etc.), but then I'd have to use aftermarket central locking / electric windows, when I'd rather use the OEM Land Rover fitted stuff if I can.

Any experience or advice that may help me with my quest will be appreciated. If nothing else it will be nice not to have a puddle in the drivers' footwell after a night of rain!

[SiWhite]

I think the TD5 needs ECU for clocks etc to work - you can 'ping' the temperature guage with a nanocom for instance. Central locking needs the 10AS, windows are just switches IIRC.

It might be easier to make a hybrid loom from yours and a TD5 loom - this will give you all the bits like switch multiplugs and big rubber grommits for the bulkhead. I have a spare loom here that I'm fed up with tripping over if you need one?

[Retroanaconda]

Si,

I know that the gauges and speedo can be made to work with the 200Tdi senders, that's not a problem. Good point about the grommets etc. I know the Td5 uses the later type of connectors (Econoseal ones if I recall correctly), which I should be able to adapt my vehicle to accept without issues.

Sounds like the electric windows will work okay then, as long as I have the switches and loom. Does the 10AS need the ECU to function with regard to central locking? Or can it operate it independantly, I believe it uses a keyfob?

Thanks for the offer of a loom. I'm going to try and get a bulkhead from a breakers, complete with dash, loom, ancillaries etc. but I will let you know

[Mo Murphy]

Everything will work pretty much barring alarm/central locking. Make life easy for yourself and get wing harnesses and rear harness too. I've got everything working on mine bar the glow plugs but I'm not using central locking or electric windows. I've even used a cutdown engine harness for the 200 lump.

HTH

Mo

[crwoody]

You need the 10AS to operate the LR central locking with a LR keyfob, it also ties in with the Td5 engine ECU and I'm pretty sure it wont work without it

.

However an aftermarket central locking system can be set up independently of it quite easily, not so sure about getting it to work with an immobiliser though.

[Retroanaconda]

I don't want an immobiliser, so that's not a problem.

Hmm, third option then, are the Td5 CDL actuators reasonably standard affairs? Ie. could theybe used with an aftermarket controller etc?

[Maverik]

Have you actually seen a TD5 loom? - I have just done what you are planning, with a 2003 bulkhead. I was gobsmacked with what I was faced with when I actually saw the loom, I'm not stupid, but also not an auto electrition. Its maybe a good idea in theory, but you'll need a heap of patience and a lot of spare time to unfathom the wireing and get it to do what you want. I in the end ripped the thing out, put in my old loom and just built onto it myself using the old TD5 loom as spares for building new parts but using a Land rover colour code system (to a certain extent).

[Retroanaconda]

I'm up for a challenge, however looking at various parts of the interwebs it might not be possible, what I want to do with the 10AS and central locking motors. So I may end up just installing the 200Tdi loom in the Td5 bulkhead, modifying it to fit the slightly different layout of dash. I should be able to just buy Td5 electric window motors and wire those in to the standard switchgear.

But for the central locking I may have to get an aftermarket kit, in a way this would be easier as it would keep it seperate from the car's systems.

[Mo Murphy]

Mav, what problems did you have ? I'm no auto electrician but i had no trouble. Use the wiring diagram from Rave. Power comes from the small fuse box with the big fuses normally fitted under the drivers seat on a TD5. Plug it all in and vitually everything will work straight off with a TD5 dash. I fed a supply for the fuel solenoid through the inertia switch to cut the engine in case of roll over. Everything electrical works and the engine runs. All I need to sort is a new glow plug set up which many say is not needed on a Tdi.

Mo

[PaulMc]

I believe that the 10AS unit will work without the TD5 Engine ECU, but not the other way round -

In order to prevent hot-wiring, the TD5's ECU won't start the engine, unless it gets the OK from the 10AS.

The 10AS is also fitted to 300Tdi Defenders and they don't have an engine ECU.

In the 300Tdi, there's no Central Locking function, although this can be added -

Fitting Central Door Locking to a Defender

If you want to see his pictures fullsize, go here - http://la7dja.org/defender/pictures/

.

[Dave W]

I've done exactly what you are proposing to do.

Leaving central locking aside the loom needs some minor modifications to get it to work, mostly just connecting a few wires together in the seat box as the TD5 ECU has two plugs, one goes to the loom and one goes to the engine so some things need connecting across. The temperature gauge wiring goes through these plugs too and you may need to put a resistor between them to get the gauge to read correctly.

If you go for central locking I would just get the 2002 immobiliser/cl ecu and a couple of fobs. It'll work quite happily without the TD6 ECU. There are a few types though, some don't have CL and some work on different frequencies so the fobs need to match.

[Retroanaconda]

That makes for interesting reading, thanks.

I think what I'll do is get the bulkhead physically installed and concentrate first on getting the main loom to work with the vehicle. Judging by what Dave says it should be relatively simple. The temperature sender wire will come straight from the 300Tdi sender on the engine, through the speedo, and then to the gauge. As per the ROW spec 300Tdi vehicles.

I will most likely take the Td5 loom apart where necessary and remove/divert wires as necessary. So where the green/blue wire for the temp gauge would currently go down to the seatbox plugs and then back up to the engine loom, I will just re-direct it straight to the engine loom. In fact, most things that go to the ECU plugs would need to be re-routed as those plugs won't be necessary in my loom.

Think I need to get it in front of me and have a good look with the wiring diagrams etc.

I'm sure most of the wiring will be the same or similar. Stuff for the lights etc.

Edit: Looking at the wiring diagrams now, it seems a bit of work will be required to remove the need for the under-seat fusebox that the Td5 has, and to revert to just using the single passenger compartment one.

[Dave W]

You should be able to use the underseat fuse box, just use it on the passenger side if you have a fuel tank on the driver's side. The wiring from the bulkhead loom to the underseat box all comes from the LHS of the bulkhead anyway so it'll go to either side.

Doing it without the under seat fuse box or the later dashboard gauges would probably be more work than it's worth.

[Retroanaconda]

Well I will have a look at it when I have a bulkhead in front of me (which will be soon), but I'm thinking that I can bypass the underseat fusebox if necessary. That said, if it works out to be easier to just use one as you suggest, then I will do that

Are there separate loom spurs for the ECU plugs and the power distribution circuits?

I will be using the later gauges, mated to my 200Tdi engine.

[Dave W]

There is a single large branch of the loom that goes from the front LHS of the bulkhead down under the floor, across the gearbox and into the driver's side seat box. At the end of this branch are the connectors for the underseat fuse box, one of the TD5 ECU connectors and a number of relays/connectors. (fuel pump, main relay air con relays). It's all in a single loom spur but there's no real reason not to just ignore the ECU connector.

A couple of small branches come off it to pickup the speedo, OBD connector, diff lock and low range switches.

The TD5 engine loom has the other TD5 ECU connector on it and that loom runs down the RHS chassis leg from the seatbox and it also plugs into the bulkhead loom at the front RHS of the bulkhead then goes on to connect to the engine ancilleries.

When i did mine I bought a second hand engine loom as well and grafted my real engine loom into it (I'm using it with a 'squirted V8). I did the whole conversion without "damaging" the main TD5 loom as, at some point in the future I may end up putting a TD5 in it so wanted to keep it "plug and play" should I ever need to do that.

I have a couple of spare wing looms if you're interested in them, one of them (RHS) is brand new, the other is second hand.

[Retroanaconda]

Plenty to think about then.

What did you guys do re. the ignition switch? I don't think my Td5 one is coming with a key, so can I just swap my 200Tdi one in? The switch is a fairly basic affair as far as I can tell?

[vinny]

Plenty to think about then.

What did you guys do re. the ignition switch? I don't think my Td5 one is coming with a key, so can I just swap my 200Tdi one in? The switch is a fairly basic affair as far as I can tell?

Im trying to do the same with my 90 at the minute. Ive everything fitted but need to sort out all the electrics to make it all work.

I fitted the LR electric windows and cl. It was very straight forward as I used the LR panel as well.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=57970&st=0&p=508881&fromsearch=1entry508881

Ive moved the under seat fuse box to the passanger side also. Ive reused the 200 ignition switch. The td5 terminals are colour coded which make life easy.....

[Retroanaconda]

Excellent. Hopefully mine will work fine then, just need to get some new shear bolts for the ignition switch.

I'm hoping that with the underseat fusebox in with the battery I can just hook it up and the loom will do the rest as it were, with regard to power distribution. Just need to sort out the connections to my existing loom, which I will address when I have it in front of me

[vinny]

The td5 LR plugs are soyomoto. I had to buy some new pins from eastern beaver http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/connectors.html

[vinny]

I've fitted twin batteries,anderson connectors, a mega fuse holder and cutoff switch for the winch so I was left with very limited space for the underseat fuse box. I had to wire it though the front panel to make it all fit

[Retroanaconda]

My new bulkhead is here, will start a thread for the project as a whole with some pics etc.

Thanks to all for the advice, offers of bits etc. This is going to be an interesting challenge

[vinny]

James has gone for a ROW spec loom in for his defender. Im struggling on with the 2002+ wiring loom and dash in a non td5 90. Its been fairly simple so far, just finding new homes for parts and plugging them into the loom.

Im at a loss as to where to take the ignition live from for the injector pump!?

Ive reused the wiper motor which is from a 200tdi, it now only works on intermittent. On / fast and the wipers are lifeless. Is it wiring / motor issue?

The glow plug was controlled by the ECU I think I'll have to rewire the glow plug relay or graft in the 200/300 set up? Any pointers on how to do this?

Anybody know what wires I need to join between the engine ecu plug and the main loom plug?

Cheers

Vinny

[vinny]

My wiring ability is almost zero so im trying to figure out things as I go along. So far I think ive figured out one or two bits of the wiring at the ecu plug... the glow plug warning light is a + supply and will need to be fed from the glow plug relay. As above the glow plug relay will need to be rewired like a 200/300tdi as the trigger was controlled by the td5 ecu.

The main relay and fuel pump relay need a - supply from the ecu to work. I connected the two relay pins to the - pins at the end of the plug but this meant the relays were perminately latched on. How can I get an ign - (I'm assuming the ecu controlled this?)

I haven't checked if any of the other relays also work like this.

I would like to use the 10as module to control the central locking and the delayed courtsy lighting. But for now can it be bypassed and how?

Any help no matter how small would be appreciated