Disty Posted November 18, 2010 Share Posted November 18, 2010 So in a moment of stupidity, I was trying to put the tensioner on with the belt in the way, which led to me pulling the threaded bolt (ETC4873) out of the front of the engine (not sure what part). Now when I run the engine the tensioner works loose and kills the belt, stripping it in a matter of minutes. How can I fix this? I've thought about using liquid metal to keep the bolt in, but would that be strong enough? My other idea is to get a piece machined where the thread on the end is larger diameter, and tapping the inside of the casting. It must be pretty soft metal! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 18, 2010 Share Posted November 18, 2010 If you can get to a machine shop they may be able to helicoil it in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disty Posted November 18, 2010 Author Share Posted November 18, 2010 Would one of those hand heli-coil kits do it? Like this one: http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/armstrong-eco-kit-thread-repair-kit-m8-x-1-25 I could get it to a machine shop, but I don't fancy taking everything back out so they can get to it? Is the tool big? I'd first have to find a temporary solution so I could drive it back home haha! Thanks matey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 18, 2010 Share Posted November 18, 2010 They might well do it, yep. Not used those specific ones before, be worth getting an opinion of someone who has....? As for getting it home/to a machine shop, how far is it? If just a few miles and you are a diesel you may well get away with driving with no belt attached, just watch the temp gauge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted November 18, 2010 Share Posted November 18, 2010 I've not used Arms coil inserts before but the set looks exactly the same as the Recoil sets that I use but for yellow plastic instead of red Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted November 18, 2010 Share Posted November 18, 2010 If this is a 300tdi, and you have a bolt it's not the same as mine. I have a stud & nut.If you could get the same, you may find there is thread beyond what is damaged, and you could wind in the stud further (careful not to do further damage) then tighten the nut onto the tensioner. Or you may also find a Whitworth or maybe even UNC bolt that is a tighter fit that could get you home. Maybe 1/2" Whit? I'd take the bolt to an engineering supplier; however it's not a substitute for proper repair with helicoils. If you want to try 'liquid metal' (be sure to degrease well) JBWeld is supposed to be really tough stuff. Good luck! Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disty Posted November 18, 2010 Author Share Posted November 18, 2010 Just managed to source a Recoil set for a tenner cheaper than at machine mart, so it looks like that's a go. How did you get on with your Recoil set? Does it come with a drill bit or do I need to buy one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 18, 2010 Share Posted November 18, 2010 you need to buy the drill bit that's specified in/on the recoil kit info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted November 18, 2010 Share Posted November 18, 2010 ... And a tap wrench if you don't have one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disty Posted November 19, 2010 Author Share Posted November 19, 2010 Ok so I got the kit, comes with a tap, mini wrench for the tap and a correctly sized drill bit. I'm properly papping myself on this one- If it goes wrong I can't get it MOT'd and it's another week gone! I have no fan or cowl so I should be able to get to it with the drill to get the old threads out. I'll post up some pics tomorrow night when I have the news! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atlas2 Posted November 19, 2010 Share Posted November 19, 2010 I've had this problem too, a helicoil does fix it. Make sure you are dead square to the face when drilling and tapping. We found to get enough space to be accurate we had to drop the radiator out But otherwise a simple fix. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disty Posted November 19, 2010 Author Share Posted November 19, 2010 I will update you once I'm back!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisM_110 Posted November 20, 2010 Share Posted November 20, 2010 I've just repaired mine after the same problem. I just flipped the assembly over, drilled out the hole, ground out the web at the back to hold the side of the head of a bolt, and that was it, job done. LR do this with prop bolts, so I'm sure it's fine. I had thought of coiling the hole, but could not be arsed, and a bolt fitted 'backwards' holds to torque fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disty Posted November 21, 2010 Author Share Posted November 21, 2010 Ah a bolt, good idea. Dunno how you got it through that gap though? The good news is that this is now fixed. It was still stripping new fan belts very badly though. Fortunately before I put my old one back on (that used to squeal) we spotted the disc on the alternator was dipping into the line of the fan belt, thus shredding it. We fixed it, did the helicoil, put everything back and it worked a treat. Just about to update the other thread. I can't get pics on cos I've lost the cable! Thank you to everybody, good helpful advice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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