Hi im new!

[rob25dt]

1 - rear wipers dont work. common for motors to go? Is there a fuse?

2 - ride is pretty bumpy and it is very vague in the steering department. I am looking into new bushes and balljoints. Anything i should know?

3 - EAS seems to deflate as soon as ignition is off. Bad?

4 - what is the valve in the attached pic? I found a hose from it to the engine is split.

5 - possibly to do with 4 above - cold and hot start isnt working very well at all. I am aware the M51 has hot start issues. Its a strange one. I can sit and wait for the glow plug light to go off, but it only seems happy to start from cold if i start it immediately after the engine check light goes out (looks like an injector) Leak off pipes, glowplugs or diesel pump (s)?

6 - seems that my main cabin vents have no warm air from them. The foot ones are fine, the side window ones are fine.

7 - all the A, B and D pillars look awful. The material has come off them!

8 - looking into fitting fog lights and heated electric seats. Is it similar to some cars where all the looms are there but not connected? As in can i connect fog lights for example and go from there?

9 - ABS light stays on until i reach some speed or distance moved.

10 - Where is the BCEM module? What options do i have if it is still 'buzzing' after i remove the igniton? Previous owner said the battery goes flat after a week of no use, but i suspect its the BECM as i have heard it can do this.

[scube]

Not sure which Range Rover you have, guessing Classic on air as you mention A, B and C pillar rotten, never seen a P38 with rotten pillars.. Unless you can weld I would probably pass it on.

Rear Wiper motor, there is a fuse I expect the spindle is seized, it does not get used as much as the front and all the road carp gets thrown up on the back. Loads of second hand one’s on eBay or at breakers, just replace if a bit of work to free it of does not work.

Ride bumpy, air suspension can be a little harsh compared to springs, probably normal.

Vague steering, yes first thing to check is track rod ends, check steering box for slack

EAS deflate, yes not good you probably have a leak and unless you find it soon you will probably have a knackered pump soon. Checks air lines for splits and air suspension bags for ware.

Don’t know anything about diesel range Rovers sorry.

Cabin vents. The centre vents supply air from the outside this can be shut of with the controls on the panel.

ABS light stays on. That’s normal you have to be moving for the ABS system to detect the pulses from the sensor, if it stays on when your travelling then you have a problem.

Not sure about number 10? Could just be a tired battery Sounds more like a P38 problem.

[Bowie69]

Not sure which Range Rover you have, guessing Classic on air as you mention A, B and C pillar rotten, never seen a P38 with rotten pillars.. Unless you can weld I would probably pass it on.

He mentions an M51 engine, which is the BMW 2.5 DT IIRC, so unless it is a retro fit, I would say it is a P38.

Everything else you say is pretty generic though

[rob25dt]

Not sure which Range Rover you have, guessing Classic on air as you mention A, B and C pillar rotten, never seen a P38 with rotten pillars.. Unless you can weld I would probably pass it on.

Rear Wiper motor, there is a fuse I expect the spindle is seized, it does not get used as much as the front and all the road carp gets thrown up on the back. Loads of second hand one’s on eBay or at breakers, just replace if a bit of work to free it of does not work.

Ride bumpy, air suspension can be a little harsh compared to springs, probably normal.

Vague steering, yes first thing to check is track rod ends, check steering box for slack

EAS deflate, yes not good you probably have a leak and unless you find it soon you will probably have a knackered pump soon. Checks air lines for splits and air suspension bags for ware.

Don’t know anything about diesel range Rovers sorry.

Cabin vents. The centre vents supply air from the outside this can be shut of with the controls on the panel.

ABS light stays on. That’s normal you have to be moving for the ABS system to detect the pulses from the sensor, if it stays on when your travelling then you have a problem.

Not sure about number 10? Could just be a tired battery Sounds more like a P38 problem.

It was the trim pieces on a P38 that the material is coming off. I didnt say they were rotten, so not sure where that came from!

[scube]

Should be more clear in your question them. !

[pete3000]

1 - rear wipers dont work. common for motors to go? Is there a fuse?

Probably there are lots of fuses, engine fusebox by battery

2 - ride is pretty bumpy and it is very vague in the steering department. I am looking into new bushes and balljoints. Anything i should know?

It's fairly standard, bushes and tyres?

3 - EAS seems to deflate as soon as ignition is off. Bad?

Yes, not ideal as it will put pressure on your compressor, trace the leak with some washing up liquid on high ride height

4 - what is the valve in the attached pic? I found a hose from it to the engine is split.

not too sure breather/filter for fuel/oil system, just replace hose

5 - possibly to do with 4 above - cold and hot start isnt working very well at all. I am aware the M51 has hot start issues. Its a strange one. I can sit and wait for the glow plug light to go off, but it only seems happy to start from cold if i start it immediately after the engine check light goes out (looks like an injector) Leak off pipes, glowplugs or diesel pump (s)? replace leak off pipes and do glowplugs if high mileage

6 - seems that my main cabin vents have no warm air from them. The foot ones are fine, the side window ones are fine.

1 heater blend flap motor may be stuck, 3 in system see rangerovers.net page

7 - all the A, B and D pillars look awful. The material has come off them!

8 - looking into fitting fog lights and heated electric seats. Is it similar to some cars where all the looms are there but not connected? As in can i connect fog lights for example and go from there?

the looms will most likely be there, but thats the easy bit, becm has to be programmed to turn on dealer fit options (foglights)(electric seats)

9 - ABS light stays on until i reach some speed or distance moved.

standard light check feature

10 - Where is the BCEM module? under drivers seat behind fuses (actaully part of it)What options do i have if it is still 'buzzing' after i remove the igniton? Previous owner said the battery goes flat after a week of no use, but i suspect its the BECM as i have heard it can do this.

likely to be dodgy rf receiver, behind rear right hand seat see mez page for info

http://www.mez.co.uk/p38.html

enjoy Pete

[David Sparkes]

I wonder why you bought the vehicle.

The valve is part of the EGR system.

You may well need new bushes at both ends of the hockey sticks locating the front axle, as well as new track and tie rods. As you will find out, in both cases one of the ball joints is integral to the rod / link.

You need a RAVE CD, there may be a link in the Technical Archive.

You also need a few hours to read both the Workshop and Electrical Troubleshooting manuals, plus the Owners manual, all of which are part of the RAVE CD.

You may also benefit from a few hours spent browsing the Rangerovers.net site, as has already been mentioned.

IIRC there is mention there of the pillar trim that loses its covering.

For the EAS parts and advice I suggest Rover-Renovations.com

If you do the work yourself you have some money to spend. Probably several hundred pounds.

If you pay someone else to do the work you have 3 or 4 times the money to spend.

I wonder why you bought the vehicle.

[rob25dt]

Should be more clear in your question them. !

Not being funny but where did you get rusty pillars from '7 - all the A, B and D pillars look awful. The material has come off them!'?

[rob25dt]

1 - rear wipers dont work. common for motors to go? Is there a fuse?

Probably there are lots of fuses, engine fusebox by battery

2 - ride is pretty bumpy and it is very vague in the steering department. I am looking into new bushes and balljoints. Anything i should know?

It's fairly standard, bushes and tyres?

3 - EAS seems to deflate as soon as ignition is off. Bad?

Yes, not ideal as it will put pressure on your compressor, trace the leak with some washing up liquid on high ride height

4 - what is the valve in the attached pic? I found a hose from it to the engine is split.

not too sure breather/filter for fuel/oil system, just replace hose

5 - possibly to do with 4 above - cold and hot start isnt working very well at all. I am aware the M51 has hot start issues. Its a strange one. I can sit and wait for the glow plug light to go off, but it only seems happy to start from cold if i start it immediately after the engine check light goes out (looks like an injector) Leak off pipes, glowplugs or diesel pump (s)? replace leak off pipes and do glowplugs if high mileage

6 - seems that my main cabin vents have no warm air from them. The foot ones are fine, the side window ones are fine.

1 heater blend flap motor may be stuck, 3 in system see rangerovers.net page

7 - all the A, B and D pillars look awful. The material has come off them!

8 - looking into fitting fog lights and heated electric seats. Is it similar to some cars where all the looms are there but not connected? As in can i connect fog lights for example and go from there?

the looms will most likely be there, but thats the easy bit, becm has to be programmed to turn on dealer fit options (foglights)(electric seats)

9 - ABS light stays on until i reach some speed or distance moved.

standard light check feature

10 - Where is the BCEM module? under drivers seat behind fuses (actaully part of it)What options do i have if it is still 'buzzing' after i remove the igniton? Previous owner said the battery goes flat after a week of no use, but i suspect its the BECM as i have heard it can do this.

likely to be dodgy rf receiver, behind rear right hand seat see mez page for info

http://www.mez.co.uk/p38.html

enjoy Pete

Thanks for the help Pete.

[FridgeFreezer]

RAVE manuals & parts books in the technical archive under "manuals" in the index.

1 - rear wipers dont work. common for motors to go? Is there a fuse?

Probably under BECM control, in which case the BECM output cna be blown up by people trying to use the wiper when frozen / snowed under. It will also refuse to wipe if it thinks the door/window is open, etc.

2 - ride is pretty bumpy and it is very vague in the steering department. I am looking into new bushes and balljoints. Anything i should know?

Depends how much you already know really - do you know it needs bushes & ball joints or are you guessing?

3 - EAS seems to deflate as soon as ignition is off. Bad?

Well, it's not supposed to. Could just be a leaky hose or connector, it's all cheap as chips when bought from ye local hydraulics/pneumatics supply shoppe.

4 - what is the valve in the attached pic? I found a hose from it to the engine is split.

It's a 2-pos solenoid to let air through, something air/vacuum actuated which can include on some vehicles: cruise control, heater flaps, brake servo.

5 - no idea.

6 - seems that my main cabin vents have no warm air from them. The foot ones are fine, the side window ones are fine.

See (4)

7 - all the A, B and D pillars look awful. The material has come off them!

Trim is just unnecessary decadence anyway....

8 - looking into fitting fog lights and heated electric seats. Is it similar to some cars where all the looms are there but not connected? As in can i connect fog lights for example and go from there?

No idea, look in the RAVE manual.

9 - ABS light stays on until i reach some speed or distance moved.

They're supposed to do that, the ABS needs to see all wheels turning at ~7mph before it checks out OK.

10 - Where is the BCEM module? What options do i have if it is still 'buzzing' after i remove the igniton? Previous owner said the battery goes flat after a week of no use, but i suspect its the BECM as i have heard it can do this.

No idea, lots of BECM info on rangerovers.net I believe.

[rob25dt]

I wonder why you bought the vehicle.

The valve is part of the EGR system.

You may well need new bushes at both ends of the hockey sticks locating the front axle, as well as new track and tie rods. As you will find out, in both cases one of the ball joints is integral to the rod / link.

You need a RAVE CD, there may be a link in the Technical Archive.

You also need a few hours to read both the Workshop and Electrical Troubleshooting manuals, plus the Owners manual, all of which are part of the RAVE CD.

You may also benefit from a few hours spent browsing the Rangerovers.net site, as has already been mentioned.

IIRC there is mention there of the pillar trim that loses its covering.

For the EAS parts and advice I suggest Rover-Renovations.com

If you do the work yourself you have some money to spend. Probably several hundred pounds.

If you pay someone else to do the work you have 3 or 4 times the money to spend.

I wonder why you bought the vehicle.

These are a few niggles. I bought a RAVE CD, and found out it was the EGR valve so im not bothered. Starting issue traced to in tank pump. Drag link has wear in each ends balljoint. Ill do the work myself for a few hundred pounds.

Why wouldnt i buy the vehicle?!

[pete3000]

These are a few niggles. I bought a RAVE CD, and found out it was the EGR valve so im not bothered. Starting issue traced to in tank pump. Drag link has wear in each ends balljoint. Ill do the work myself for a few hundred pounds.

Why wouldnt i buy the vehicle?!

Good work Rob, some good points mentioned by David, another source of spare diy bits is p38spares.co.uk, also found rimmerbros to be helpful when trying to find more obscure P38 parts. Doing the work yourself is a great way to learn and save money. Plenty of advice and help on here read through the tech archive, and the range rover sub forum for some of the more commmon issues, also the rangerovers.net page (which has links somewhere to landywiki)

Pete

[Snagger]

1 - rear wipers dont work. common for motors to go? Is there a fuse?

The main fuse box is in the drop down panel under the steering column. The spindles seize, as mentioned, but replacement is quite easy with the rear head lining moved out of the way.

2 - ride is pretty bumpy and it is very vague in the steering department. I am looking into new bushes and balljoints. Anything i should know?Polybushes are easier to fit but wear out more rapidly and cost a fortune. They can also overstress some suspension components, so stick to OEM rubber bushes - Tomcats and Bowlers use them after trials with various polybushes. For the steering, check the swivel pins/bearings and the steering column UJs too.

3 - EAS seems to deflate as soon as ignition is off. Bad?Yes. It could be a leak from a union, pipe or perished airbag, and all are expensive. Prolongued use will cause the compressor to fail, which is very expensive. New valve blocks are worth more than most complete Classics, so if it's a costly part and the rest of the car is worth fixing, retrofit coils (you need a kit as the ECU needs fooling with a plug-in box).

4 - what is the valve in the attached pic? I found a hose from it to the engine is split.It looks like the vacuum controller for the EGR valve. EGR valves are best blanked off.

5 - possibly to do with 4 above - cold and hot start isnt working very well at all. I am aware the M51 has hot start issues. Its a strange one. I can sit and wait for the glow plug light to go off, but it only seems happy to start from cold if i start it immediately after the engine check light goes out (looks like an injector) Leak off pipes, glowplugs or diesel pump (s)?

6 - seems that my main cabin vents have no warm air from them. The foot ones are fine, the side window ones are fine.

7 - all the A, B and D pillars look awful. The material has come off them!

8 - looking into fitting fog lights and heated electric seats. Is it similar to some cars where all the looms are there but not connected? As in can i connect fog lights for example and go from there?Late Classics had standardised looms, so P38s probably do too. Be careful about switches and light units and which loom plugs you connect them too - my Classic has wiring for fog lights and driving lights, but they are on separate sub-harnesses as they have to resond differently to dipped/main beam selection. On mine, the shape of the plugs prevents mix-ups, but there should be two plugs behind the switch panel and four light plugs behind the spoiler for the two options.

9 - ABS light stays on until i reach some speed or distance moved.4mph required for ABS sensors to detect motion for self test. Normal.

10 - Where is the BCEM module? What options do i have if it is still 'buzzing' after i remove the igniton? Previous owner said the battery goes flat after a week of no use, but i suspect its the BECM as i have heard it can do this.

In all honesty, it sounds like it's going to be more trouble than it's worth unless it has a special history or sentimental value.

[rob25dt]

In all honesty, it sounds like it's going to be more trouble than it's worth unless it has a special history or sentimental value.

LOL! This is the weirdest forum iv ever been on! Since when has a few hours detective work been an issue? All im listing here are niggles.

So far for £300 outlay i have replaced worn cloth seats with heated leather seats, replaced damaged console with a new leather centre console, new gaitors, new drag link, new wheels and tyres and new towbar plus fog lights. Cold start is the pump so im leaving the fuel level over a quarter, the valve is the EGR so im not worried for now, freed up the rear wiper, the EAS isnt faulty, it appears to be self levelling, if it needs anything ill do it myself. 500ml of isopropyl alcohol and a can of black paint and my dirty looking pillar covers are sorted.

I imagine you all drive around in brand new cars or are deaf if not!

This is the car before i worked on it at all. Still think its more trouble than its worth?

[FridgeFreezer]

Reminds me of my favourite quote of all time from Pirate 4x4:

"I've just been given a Range Rover for free!"

"You overpaid."

In reality, most LR owners are terrified of P38's because they contain white man's magic "electrics" and hence are bottomless money pits because every fault involves changing all the ECU's until it turns out to be the light switch. With a bit of rational thought and a RAVE manual most things can be fixed or worked around. Hell, you can even start replacing transistors inside the BECM if you know which end of a soldering iron is which.

If you need a good contact for parts, Martin Toole (Range Rover Recycled Parts, 07885 025872) is a top chap.

In case you're wondering, no I don't drive brand-new and silent cars - last two have been the other model that strikes fear into the hearts of LR owners, the Freelander, both have been picked up as scrap, and both have been brilliant. And the other one is a Series so definitely not silent

[rob25dt]

Reminds me of my favourite quote of all time from Pirate 4x4:

"I've just been given a Range Rover for free!"

"You overpaid."

In reality, most LR owners are terrified of P38's because they contain white man's magic "electrics" and hence are bottomless money pits because every fault involves changing all the ECU's until it turns out to be the light switch. With a bit of rational thought and a RAVE manual most things can be fixed or worked around. Hell, you can even start replacing transistors inside the BECM if you know which end of a soldering iron is which.

If you need a good contact for parts, Martin Toole (Range Rover Recycled Parts, 07885 025872) is a top chap.

In case you're wondering, no I don't drive brand-new and silent cars - last two have been the other model that strikes fear into the hearts of LR owners, the Freelander, both have been picked up as scrap, and both have been brilliant. And the other one is a Series so definitely not silent

Thank god, i was beginning to think everyone on here was insane!!

I have been 'into' cars all my life, my father restores classic cars for a hobby, and i always maintain my own cars. Even 'rescued' a few from a life of chav Bodgerneering and repaired them to good working order. I find the P38 a nice car to work on. As i said above, for minimal outlay and a few hours of work i have made a big difference.

Thanks for the contact, always useful. My younger brother (also on here somewhere) has a Landrover 90, so i know how basic and simple they are in comparison to the P38. Built a bit stronger though perhaps!

[FridgeFreezer]

Thank god, i was beginning to think everyone on here was insane!!

Insanity is only a minority of one

Anyway, all the experts will tell you everything about all my cars is wrong anyway, I'm not down with the cool kids at all

[David Sparkes]

All right, lets give the other point of view.

Any reader on here can only respond to what they are told. We don't know what you know, we only know what you tell us.

Some, I agree, cannot tell the difference between a Classic and a 38A, and you have had two responses that show that inclination.

For myself, you gave a list of faults which indicated a poorly maintained vehicle. REMEMBER, it was YOUR LIST of faults.

I have more experience of 38As than you have, both mine and reading about other owners. My assessment, and even your later comments don't prove it wrong, is that there is a high likelihood of other faults or maintenance work to be done to bring it up to an acceptable standard, for a 38A. By that I mean it is a whole lot better than any previous model bar none, in terms of ride comfort and handling. When in good order the steering is wonderfully precise, there is no vagueness at all.

I agree it is a tried and tested technique to buy cheaply a vehicle with a poor reputation and known faults, then apply skill and prior knowledge to correct the problems. The 1.8 Freelander with a blown head gasket is an obvious example.

I revert back to my initial point, we only know what YOU tell us.

Your list clearly told us (me) that you had no prior knowledge of the 38A at all.

Afterwards, you said it yourself, get a workshop manual (for free - you don't have to buy one) spend time reading it, and a lot of the mystery disappears. You could have done all that BEFORE you bought the vehicle, but you didn't.

AGAIN, your list, which was ALL you told us, indicated you had NO prior knowledge, because if you had you wouldn't have asked those bone questions.

Given the circumstances that you set up, I still think my response of "I wonder why you bought the vehicle" was valid.

All that's happened since is that you have explained why.

I bought mine in 1999, when NONE of the information sources mentioned in this thread were available to private owners, so it's perhaps not surprising that over 10 years later I look sideways at people who have all the information available, but who can't be bothered to find it and read it before purchase.

PS.

Prior research would also have indicated that this is probably the worst English language LR forum in the world for 38A problems. To adapt phrasing borrowed from somewhere else.

The inability to distinguish Classic from 38A is one example, a tendency to produce forthright opinions without any relevant personal experience is another.

A low number of contributing members who have both experience and a positive opinion about the 38A is a third.

[rob25dt]

All right, lets give the other point of view.

Any reader on here can only respond to what they are told. We don't know what you know, we only know what you tell us.

Some, I agree, cannot tell the difference between a Classic and a 38A, and you have had two responses that show that inclination.

For myself, you gave a list of faults which indicated a poorly maintained vehicle. REMEMBER, it was YOUR LIST of faults.

I have more experience of 38As than you have, both mine and reading about other owners. My assessment, and even your later comments don't prove it wrong, is that there is a high likelihood of other faults or maintenance work to be done to bring it up to an acceptable standard, for a 38A. By that I mean it is a whole lot better than any previous model bar none, in terms of ride comfort and handling. When in good order the steering is wonderfully precise, there is no vagueness at all.

I agree it is a tried and tested technique to buy cheaply a vehicle with a poor reputation and known faults, then apply skill and prior knowledge to correct the problems. The 1.8 Freelander with a blown head gasket is an obvious example.

I revert back to my initial point, we only know what YOU tell us.

Your list clearly told us (me) that you had no prior knowledge of the 38A at all.

Afterwards, you said it yourself, get a workshop manual (for free - you don't have to buy one) spend time reading it, and a lot of the mystery disappears. You could have done all that BEFORE you bought the vehicle, but you didn't.

AGAIN, your list, which was ALL you told us, indicated you had NO prior knowledge, because if you had you wouldn't have asked those bone questions.

Given the circumstances that you set up, I still think my response of "I wonder why you bought the vehicle" was valid.

All that's happened since is that you have explained why.

I bought mine in 1999, when NONE of the information sources mentioned in this thread were available to private owners, so it's perhaps not surprising that over 10 years later I look sideways at people who have all the information available, but who can't be bothered to find it and read it before purchase.

PS.

Prior research would also have indicated that this is probably the worst English language LR forum in the world for 38A problems. To adapt phrasing borrowed from somewhere else.

The inability to distinguish Classic from 38A is one example, a tendency to produce forthright opinions without any relevant personal experience is another.

A low number of contributing members who have both experience and a positive opinion about the 38A is a third.

I dont doubt that reading my list made you think the car was awful. But your arrogant 'i wonder why you bought the vehicle' really annoyed me. I needed a tow car, i like the design of the Range Rover, i didnt want a Land Rover, decision made.

There are plenty out there in a far worse state (i know i looked) that could easily be brought back to a good standard. I read nothing before purchase because i dont need to. I know that 99% of problems i can rectify. Why would i buy a workshop manual for a car i do not own? Have a word with yourself and get back to reality.

Normally internet forums are full of helpful people, but occasionally some utter retards prevail, with the 'i have more experience than you do'

And yes, you are right, this is THE worst forum i have ever had the misfortune to visit. I joined 3 and hoped to find the best. I wont be back

Stick your '10 years experience with the P38' up your **** sunshine.

Edited February 2, 2011 by Hybrid_From_Hell
Kiddie safe forum - Language Please

[Bowie69]

This thread makes me sad

There has been some useful/helpful posts by a few, and pretty unhelpful ones by a couple, not really what anyone wants to see on here.

Rob: Sorry for the above unhelpful/argumentative/disencouraging posts, please notice that there are only 2/3 posts that have upset you whereas I think 7 gave you good/helpful information or content.

Good luck with the rest of your project, they are a nice vehicle to drive, I agree, even if I have a Classic myself

[David Sparkes]

But your arrogant

Does he mean me?

Let's see:

I read nothing before purchase because i dont need to.

Really? Read on.

i like the design of the Range Rover, i didnt want a Land Rover

Umm, a Range Rover is made by Land Rover, even in the same factory.

I know that 99% of problems i can rectify.

So why is he asking questions about 'simple' problems?

Why would i buy a workshop manual for a car i do not own?

Obviously missing the point they are available for free, and reading one beforehand means the reader has the opportunity to make an INFORMED choice.

I wont be back.

Oh no, I'm not rising to that bait (as well) :-)

[Snagger]

LOL! This is the weirdest forum iv ever been on! Since when has a few hours detective work been an issue? All im listing here are niggles.

So far for £300 outlay i have replaced worn cloth seats with heated leather seats, replaced damaged console with a new leather centre console, new gaitors, new drag link, new wheels and tyres and new towbar plus fog lights. Cold start is the pump so im leaving the fuel level over a quarter, the valve is the EGR so im not worried for now, freed up the rear wiper, the EAS isnt faulty, it appears to be self levelling, if it needs anything ill do it myself. 500ml of isopropyl alcohol and a can of black paint and my dirty looking pillar covers are sorted.

I imagine you all drive around in brand new cars or are deaf if not!

This is the car before i worked on it at all. Still think its more trouble than its worth?

Now I know for certain that it's a P38, I'm convinced it's more trouble than it's worth.

You came on and listed a series of faults, some of which are significant and expensive, others tried to help with constructive advice, and you became petulant and insulting. So long...

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

Admin Hat on :

ENOUGH

Whilst the poster MAY have asked a poor question(s) or a question poorly, does / do new posters here

then deserve a fast flaming ?. The above doesn't really show LR4x4 in the "Friendly" badge that we

are known for ?

Yes, the poster could have been clearer, but seems to have escalated rather fast maybe ?

Rob25dt, don't give up yet, this Forum is a wealth of Knowledge, and maybe things have not gone right from your

1st post - and I guess things went wrong from there, but, FWIW David Sparks is a huge knowledge base on P38s,

and you would do well to breathe in, breathe out, and EVERYBODY Calm down please ?

Play nicely.... or I'll be back

Nige

[FridgeFreezer]

It's not often I turn out to be the helpful and friendly one when newbies come along something's gone terribly wrong here!

Rob - the problem is the average LR owner (esp. round here) is convinced that any truck which has more than two wires in it (one for start, one for keep going) is the devil's work. To be fair, LR haven't done themselves any favours as a lot of their attempts at electrics* have been a bit hit-and-miss. It's worth remembering that the RR has always been a top end luxury car when new, hence has featured relatively cutting edge technology to keep up with the pack, which therefore means it hasn't yet had all the kinks worked out. By the time things like EFI, ABS, traction control, EDC etc. have filtered down to the Ford Fiesta they're mature technology and are both cheap and reliable.

Of course, while the "new" RR's are filtering down through the system until mere mortals can afford them, the horror stories of repair bills and impossible faults build up, most of which revolve around owners or mechanics with no ability to fault find an electronic system swapping expensive modules at random until either the fault is fixed or the money runs out.

The same things were said about the previous generation(s) of LR products with every advance, and indeed are still said about the current generation.

Then again, I'm crazy enough to prefer tuning my 1978 Series from my laptop rather than dismantle a muddy carburettor with a spoon. And yes, I've got an arc-fusion splicer stashed in the loft for the day the opportunity arises to bobtail a Disco3

* = And everything else, if we're honest.