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The "Oooh Thats A good idea" Lathe Thread


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Probably, but I owe the sweet lines of my robot fish to 3 axis cnc :lol:

Father in law in using Mach3 to make a cnc myford. :unsure: . What I will say, is that even if you can't afford cnc kits, the digital tracking that clips on is very good. Those wheel dividers might be okay for lathe-jokeys who do it all day. But us mortals prefer a nice easy read display :D

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This is what I did this weekend:

post-74-0-84095800-1308515072_thumb.jpg

When I bought my Lathe, it came with what was previously an auto tool change turret - but missing almost everything but the castings.

I re-made the worm & wheel, the locking mechanism and added a stepper motor and encoder to drive it. I've used a GeckoDrive stepper driver (which incidentally is very good!) and have written some scripts to drive the thing.

Si

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I've posted a bit of video of it operating here on YouTube

There is a bolt which adjusts the rotational position it locks in to for all the tools which sets the height. For any tools where the face of the tool is too high or low, you have to use shims. In my case however, all my tools are the same make and have the same face height which makes this unnecessary.

Having seen how well this works, I'm now in the process of converting my indexing head on the mill to a proper 4th axis. You can adjust out most of the backlash in it - and it's easy to add backlash compensation into the driver macro. For ops which require it to be rock solid (circular interpolated pocketing for example) there is a locking screw. I'm going to re-tap this with an Acme thread and drive the screw with a small geared motor. Acme threads do not bind up like regular bolts so you can do them up tight then unscrew them with much less torque than if it were a triangular thread profile - like a vice.

I've bought a 2Nm stepper motor, a Geckodrive stepper controller and another inductive pickup for the home position and will machine up some adaptors to bolt the motor on instead of the indexing plate / handle. It should allow me to make things like my lights myself in small quantities (for when the cnc shop lets me down). Bore out the inside on the lathe and face the end and outside (using the tool changer) then mount in the 4th axis chuck, put the longitudinal grooves on the outside then profile the back end of it. It should also allow me to make a couple of things I'd ruled out because of the number of jigs I'd have to make to hold the workpiece at different angles while machining.

That should be running in a couple of weeks!

Si

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Very nice Si :) Looks like gear cutting isn't far off now!

Just what I was thinking! I was wondering if you can get end-mills with the same profile as involute gear teeth. If so, I could cut helical gears and everything!

Si

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Hmmm apparently it's not practical to sell that type of end mill as every different diameter and different number of teeth would require a different shaped cutter.... There's a discussion here Simon http://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php/topic,14478.0.html

Looks like you'll be playing with the tool and cutter grinder next :)

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  • 1 month later...

It should solve the problem.

A bit off the Landy subjects but my father had a Rivet lathe for his clock making. Far too big realy but it was so much easier than having too think if he could manage jobs. Origionly bough by the british army for boring out rifle barrels so I belive. I have been down the line of Harison and Colchester lathes and even a very old Myford converted to electric from treadle. Not realy needing a lathe but I have inherited a nearly new Mini Lathe. I realy cant think of things to do with it but wont sell it incase I find an urge to turn things.

Apart from the sugested atachements I made a tailstock die holder for tapping threads in the chuck. You are garantee to get the threads straight that way. The sound of swarf falling on the floor is good therapy untill you realise it too much. ;)

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