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Rear Winch Mount No 2 - Progress so far and views wanted !


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Righty Ho then all,

As you know the Rear Winch (PTO Driven Mile Marker) decided to self destruct its mounting unit, as such amongst my and other work I have been moving towards a new 2nd rear winch mount.

The main probs with the 1st one (other than it self destructed) was :

1. The winch is mounted very high up from the base plate, .......ie base plate follows line of the bottom of the 90s chassis,

...............the top of the winch is 10 inches higher....

2. This means that the winch leveage is HUGE, a....nd I have to somehow tie in the top part of the winch rather than to try and brace against pure "leverage"

3. The old one was basically "2 seperate Towers" with the winch connected to both, this was weak, as the 2 towers were not connceted to each other , other than the winch across them.........

So

I have thought, thought and re thought,

..............as I want the winch as it was I am stuck with the 10 inch height thingy, .............

BUT....I CAN make a plate, slotted with the SMALLEST apperature for the winch rope possible, .....and shove a 90 degree fold on the top too for strength :

Plate :

RearwinchmountingNo2plate-001Medium.jpg

6mm plate - Folded 90 Degress AWAY from the font of the winch...

Slotted for fairlead

RearwinchmountingNo2plate-007Medium.jpg

Seen from the back, the 2 pics above show the height 'away' (ie height up) from the base, .....and therefore the leverage that is going to be applied.

On the fold, ......which faces away from the winch both top and bottom will have a length of solid SS rod welded in the apertaure to ensure plasma doesn't 'snag' on any edges, this will also add some additional strength to the fold....

The next pics show the mount as it is at the end of today,

the old base (again 6mm) which I have cleaned off and had blasted is refitted,

and them the face plate tacked into place,

then you'll see the cardborad templates (will also be 6mm) which I am now thinking of doing explainations to follow below :

View from the tiop down, face plate and base in place and tacked up

RearwinchmountingNo2-004Medium.jpg

RearwinchmountingNo2-005Medium.jpg

From another angle HUGE side plate in cardboard showing

RearwinchmountingNo2-007Medium.jpg

From another angle, this plate will be seam welded into place

Now, .....the side plates ....

I am also planning to have a 90 degree fold INBOARD,

and then this can be welded to the fold OUTBOARD at the front.

Additionally I am thinking of a shaped plate which will then bolt along both sides of the side plates fold,

and across the front face fold,

the side plates will be bolted though both the top and bottom of the chassis points,

and also mid way,....... all additional holes in the chassis will of course be "Tubed", prob M12 or M10s

This means in my simple fabrication logic that the pull on the winch now is a "Box", ....a base, ....and 2 sides ....and a top plate.

The winch itself as from the pic is at the moment being bolted through 4x 12mm holes in the front face plate.

It has extra bolt holes underneath, and I could easily use these,

I was wondering about a plate level with the bottom of the winch plate seam welded on the sides and the front face plate, and having a couple of drop plates triangulating down onto the base plate say either side of the drum ??????

Views on the above,

and ideas for next step, ??

...the side plates do seem a good idea .....as these tie the tops of the face plate to the top of the 90s chassis with mutliple bolt points.....

hey ho...comments ??

Nige

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Nige,

I would tend to agree with Tony, but I think I know your answer to that! :ph34r:

So, keeping the winch at its current elevation, I think you need to do this:

med_gallery_121_129_13426.jpg

Remember, you are trying to get the load from the winch to the chassis rails. The winch transfers the load via the holding down bolts and through bearing on the end plate. The end plate will want to twist and possibly bow. The gussets shown will help prevent this.

The big plate you have in the bottom :huh: is doing very little other than stiffening the bottom edges of the three vertical plates. However, I suppose it does protect the winch from the ground.

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Bish

Yep, that makes sense, and was along the lines I was thinking, cept I wondered about have the bottom part of you drawing right across to the other side and having the base of the winch bolted to it, then this plate maybe connected to the base plate too ?

Ta for the thought tho

Nige :unsure:

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Yep !

Its not that heavy,..... think of the D4x4 5 or is it 6mm bumper, now that weighs (but it sort of loverley too mind :o) )

ON one of the drawings there is a black marker pen as to the bottom of the winch this means I have maybe 3.5 inch extar metal 24 inch wide to the base.........It may look OTT heavy but its not really

Honest :P

Nige

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Nige,

If you have a horizontal plate all the way across and bolt the winch to it you will need to stiffen that too. Don't forget plate is good in tension and compression, not so good in bending.

You need the strength between the winch mounting points and the chassis rails. That is where the load is going to have to go for the winch to stay in the vehicle (this time) :ph34r::ph34r::lol::P

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I hate people like you everything you do looks so bluddy neat and fit for the job. <_<

Why when I build something (away from work) it never looks as good or tidy

My Buldings look grate but home made stuff look like it was made at home. :blink:

:lol::lol:

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I know about as much about fabrication as I do about knitting, so there's probably a good reason no one's said this: why not weld a strengthening bar just under the winch from left to right along the plate? It seems strange to have the nice strong folded bit at the top but nowt at the bottom.

It may be heavy but I can bet it'll weigh less than the new G12 :lol:

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Hi Nige,

Since you are pulling from the 'top' of the drum, you might want to consider some diagonal braces from the top of the fairlead opening/top winch mounts back to the inner sides of the chassis rails, or to the crossmember under the rear floor. These would have the advantage of spreading the abnormal load from your 'top pull' onto other parts of the chassis. With suitable brackets, these braces could be bolted in to enable the winch to be removed from the top if required.

Together with the gussets suggested by Bishbosh, you will have a fighting chance of making it strong without adding too much weight.

Regards,

Diff

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