V8 Freak Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Hello out there.... My LT85 drain plug sits immediately over the chassis cross member and when I drain the oil it's usually an almighty mess. I'm looking to "extend" the drain hole by adding a tight 90 degree bend that can effectively take the drain past the cross member. It's a fairly well protected area so I'm confident it won't be a risk. The thread looks pretty big, probably 3/4" BSP Can anyone confirm the thread size please so I can investigate further without having to drain the oil just to check the thread. Thanks in advance Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 if it's on the bottom face, all I can find is this which says taper thread 608246 doesn't say what size thread though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Ah, so it's an LT85? That's the Santana box right? I happen to have one of those sitting in the workshop, and easy access to various bits of BSP threaded plumbing to try. Will have a play and let you know which one fits PS. My money's on 3/4" BSP as well. So something like this would probably do it if it would fit between crossmember and box: Parker - 3/4CD43BL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 Cheers Ralph... Aha.. You were suspicious from the picture I showed you last night eh James... If you have a chance to test fit I'd be grateful as dropping all the oil for no good reason is a waste even in my books! (Thinking of a way to clean my oil catcher and the cross member.. Maybe a makeshift funnel from some folded metal to avoid the cross member... Thinks... <Ouch> ) Must be a way to get the oil out and not contaminate it.... (Or maybe just turn the Land Rover over to fit the joint.....) I have a 3/4 BSP 90 degree within my grasp but no spare box to try it in.... All information gratefully received.... Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 we have NewPig spill kits at work, they have this form-a-funnel not suggesting you buy one, but a similar flexible rubber sheet could be obtained to use in a similar way, it'll have to be held in place but I'm sure you get the idea. demo video here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Neil, whats wrong with the old ways ? Finger in the drain hole, oil runs down your arm, drops off your elbow into a carefully prepositioned receptacle. Make sure you wash your hands and arms carefully beforehand to prevent contaminating the oil. Just trying to help Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 That's the "warm weather" technique I use but I never recover the oil.... Just enjoy the feeing... oh and I don't collect off my elbow.... I select a body part nearer the ground for better effect and minimal splashing.... Thanks for the advice though.. Always good to build up one's knowledge from the helpful members ! Ralph, that funnel gizmo looks great fun.... If I can't get fitments to make a more permanent solution I may invest in one of those.... Hours of fun for the family... Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Ok, so I took the drain plug out of the box I have in the workshop and it is indeed a 3/4" BSPT thread. I believe the thread in the box is standard BSPP though, as it's common to have a tapered plug into a normal hole for sealing applications. Some thread-seal tape would do the job if you could only get a parallel threaded elbow though, so long as the PTFE wouldn't react with the oil or anything. The plug, being 3/4" BSP, is about 1" across the threads. I did take some photos, but left the camera down there which is handy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 Thanks very much James... I'm in no rush as only just changed the gearbox oil, but so long as I'm ready with all the parts I may drop the oil, fit the elbow and drain plug and re-use the oil. All in good time. Ralph did show a link to the standard plug being tapered, but I recon ptfe or similar will do the job to get a decent seal. Thanks peeps.. I'll post up pictures when done. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 No worries. Looking at the photo you showed me the other day, space is tight between box and crossmember. You might have to remove the crossmember to fit the elbow, if the thing is too long to get in to position before it screws into the thread Here's hoping you don't! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 You might be right.. Looking at the elbow here and the drain plug as I showed you the other night it could be tight or may not even fit..... Thread on the elbow is longer than the drain plug so it may be a case of shortening the thread before fitting. If I have to remove the cross member at least it solves the issue of how to catch the oil !! Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 The gear box is on rubber mounts, is there any chance that your additional appendage will slap against the cross member with a bit of enthusiastic engine/clutch use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share Posted February 23, 2012 I had considered this as well... The engine, gearbox and transfer box all rest on 4 main mounts, all the same on my truck... I have no idea how much things move under there but I have helmet cams and some silly mounts that I could use to fix it under the truck to see what moves and by how much ! Maybe another weekend project soon.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 If they are the simple rubber doughnut mounts with a M10 (M12?) stud on each side we had all 4 shear off on one event! Is the crosmember removable? How much work to cut and shut it to make the job a hole (pun) lot simpler? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pitmole Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 You might be able to get a hydraulic hose banjo end in the space a little easier, if this was on the end of a short hose tucked up out of the way and a blank cap screwed on the end then you have a built in no spill drain tube too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 I was thinking banjo. The holes might be a bit small, but as you're not pressing it you could probably get away with opening them out to improve oil flow at drain time. I think Series boxes are 3/4" BSPP too, they have a copper sealing washer on the face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballcock Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 You could try a 3/4bsp x 15mm bent union a short bit of speed fit pipe with a 15mm gate valve, strap it tight to the gearbox with cable ties when not in use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted February 24, 2012 Author Share Posted February 24, 2012 Offered up the 90 degree 3/4 BSP i have and as it is now, it would foul the cross member if I tried to screw it in. The thread is longer then the drain plug so I could potentially shorten it on the grinding wheel and it might just be clear. Once installed, clearance would probably be 5 - 10 mm. The exhaust system sits about this far from the cross member and there is no evidence that is fouls / touches. When the truck is running again I may pop a helmet cam under there and capture some video to see how much movement there really is when driving before installing anything... Thanks all for your help and suggestions so far... I'll update when I can (Maybe even a link to the video..) Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 If the 90degree bend is BSP tapered, you may not gain anything by shortening the thread, it'll still stop screwing in at the same place. You might gain the ability to get it in the gap, but then will the thread be 'small' enough for you to easily be able to screw it in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted February 24, 2012 Author Share Posted February 24, 2012 Now there is a thought..... I think the 90 degree bend I have is NOT tapered.. Calipers out tonight to check.... Does anyone know of the plug and receiving thread are tapered for best fit or just the drain plug itself ? James.... When you screwed the 3/4 fitting in, did it get tight as if the thread in the gearbox was tapered or did you not explore that far ? Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 I didn't check that bit I'm afraid Neil. As far as I'm aware though it's standard practice to have a tapered plug into a parallel hole for sealing applications. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 I do on the pipework at work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted February 24, 2012 Author Share Posted February 24, 2012 I do on the pipework at work Is that confirmation of James' assumption ? Sorry to have to ask but it's not clear and I don't have an engineering background at all... Thanks in advance. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 yes, sorry, tapered fittings in parrallel holes. occasionally we use tapered fittings in tapered holes, but not very often, and its a pig when we have to tap tapered holes, getting them to the right depth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted February 24, 2012 Author Share Posted February 24, 2012 Cool.. So hopefully if I have a parallel fitting I could shorten the thread and then it's just a case of making it seal good and proper.... Thanks for the help so far peeps.... Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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