JeffR Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 I am trying to separate the exhaust (SS stainless) sections on my 110 at the joints and failing miserably: Brute strength and ignorance - failed propane/acetylene torch - failed Driving chisel into "split" section - failed Gallons of releasing oil - failed Throwing tools round garden - failed but felt GOOD Has anyone got any ideas? Only need to "twist" the section that goes over the axle by about 3inches to stop it fouling the petrol tank. I am beginning to think that this bloody Landrover has an aversion to MOT's.... Before anyone asks, no, jointing paste was not used when I put the bugger together 2 years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 With the risk of sounding stupid..... have you hit it with a hammer? I assume these are fitted together by one section of pipe slipping over the other so hitting the over lapped section some times loosens them up. Although to be honest the last time I had the same problem I extended the split and peeled the metal back, once it was apart I had to reshape and then weld the extended split back up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted April 20, 2012 Author Share Posted April 20, 2012 Believe me when I say I have hit it with a hammer, started with a small one then graduated to the biggest Fcuker I own, sod will simply not budge. Damn it, whatever is holding the section together is stronger than my welding..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 Jeff, have you tried using heat and the use of two pairs of stilsons so that you can twist the two pipes once the joint is hot? John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted April 20, 2012 Author Share Posted April 20, 2012 Yeah, jbs, tried that. Beginning to consider taking the axle off to remove the exhaust the attacking the bloody thing with a sledge hammer... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 Believe me when I say I have hit it with a hammer, started with a small one then graduated to the biggest Fcuker I own, sod will simply not budge. Damn it, whatever is holding the section together is stronger than my welding..... Extend the two splits with a thin disk in the angle grinder, if you can't get at one of them then just put two new long splits in different positions to the original splits. Try not to go the full length of the inner pipe if you can guess how long it is and you won't have to weld them back up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 What about-slicing the pipe in half then sleeve the pipework to weld a tube over the area of the cut after you've adjusted the pipe to clear the fuel tank? John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 Sounds as though the stainless might have rung together, cutting and welding may be the only option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zardos Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 Have you tried splitting it at the next joint forward? I had a similar problem on the rear joint on my SS exhaust on my 90. The next joint forward was the other side of the centre silencer, therefore you could get a better grip to pull and twist this joint (and was actually an easy job to split). Once this joint was removed the whole rear section could be put in the vice and violence used to spilt the rear most joint (plus you could twist it a full 360 degrees which you could not do on the car) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted April 20, 2012 Author Share Posted April 20, 2012 Just looked at your idea ZARDOS, trouble is the joint I'm trying to split IS the furthest forward! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zardos Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 Have you tired using a set of flat bladed screw drivers as a set of wedges? I've used this technique before. Hopefully there is an edge you can get under on the corner of one of the slits. Gentle hammer in a small screw driver until there is a bit enough gap to get the next size in. Hammer that in and remove the first and repeat to get next size in and remove the second size, leaving the third size still in. Move to another edge and start again and repeat until all three sizes are in. I've mocked it up in the picture below Don't try an lever with these small flat bladed screw drivers you are just using the wedge action of their blades. Once you have the third size in you might be able to get a pry bar in to lever with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted April 22, 2012 Share Posted April 22, 2012 Use a big g clamp (or similar) to compress the pipe into a slightly oval shape, move clamp around the pipe 90 degrees and repeat... Worth a try?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted April 22, 2012 Share Posted April 22, 2012 Stihl saw Have you got any oil filter bands or even better mole grips with a length of chain on you can use to get a twist action going, if all else fails mig some metal eith side to use for grips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted April 22, 2012 Share Posted April 22, 2012 Come on Jeff! We're all dying to know how much violence you inflicted on your exhaust and how far you threw it when it finally came off Or has the weather had you swimming all weekend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted April 22, 2012 Share Posted April 22, 2012 Or Indeed how much of this exhaust thing has caused you an Injury-well going by past threads that is lol John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minimaquinas Posted April 22, 2012 Share Posted April 22, 2012 i am waiting for the wound report lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted April 22, 2012 Share Posted April 22, 2012 had this problem with a crappy corsa B my sister owns. ended up cutting the slits open more. could you not take the exhaust off the vehicle whole without taking the axle off. usually just jacking up the body gives enough room between the axle and the body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Have you still got all your arms/leg/fingers/blood Jeff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffR Posted April 23, 2012 Author Share Posted April 23, 2012 No injuries to report (after smashing my fingers to buggery last year I'm kinda more careful) and Yes the bloody exhaust is still in situ.... It simply will not budge, I have managed to deform the pipes using a combination of of chisels, screwdrivers, hammers, heat and a great deal of bad language (the latter being particularly inefective...), being underneath a 110 in monsoon conditions is not pleasant, so when the weather improves, thats it, the bloody axle is coming off and the violence will reach biblical proportions. Who would have thought that a piece of bloody stainless steel exhaust could cause so much grief and wasted time, mind you I have a cunning plan to torch the exhaust mounts off and move them , now that would work, if only I could work out which bit of garden hedge the angle grinder is currently living in... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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