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Rebuilding 2.5TD


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I've got one from a disco that could be altered to fit. Trouble is it'd probably cost more to send it than the cost of the rad.

You probably right about that, but i'll kep it in mind if i can't find anything else. Thanks for the offer both of you

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Small question? When I accelerate there is some black cloud coming out of the exhaust. I know that i can reduce them by turning the pump. But wich way should i turn it. Should i turn the top of the pump towards the engine or the other way?

Thanks

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Top away from the engine.. Scratch the pump and timing case so you can see ho much you've moved it.

Ok thanks a lot.

Was a bit disapointed today. After a drive on the freeway my oil light went on at idle speed. I wanted to swap de oil pressure switch for another one and then i found out that the internal thread was gone. Maybe that 's way it's losing pressure? Probably not. Tomorrow i will make a new thread and try a new oil switch to see what happens.

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Ok thanks a lot.

Was a bit disapointed today. After a drive on the freeway my oil light went on at idle speed. I wanted to swap de oil pressure switch for another one and then i found out that the internal thread was gone. Maybe that 's way it's losing pressure? Probably not. Tomorrow i will make a new thread and try a new oil switch to see what happens.

Could it be the oil pump? Maybe it's not building up the pressure?

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Could it be the oil pump? Maybe it's not building up the pressure?

Might this just be an issue as the new rings etc bed in? There will be a running in process you should probably observe to get the most out of your rebuild....., essentially, my understanding is don't leave it idling and don't thrash it, but others will have more detail of that or you.

Is the idle speed set high enough? Just a thought.

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Might this just be an issue as the new rings etc bed in? There will be a running in process you should probably observe to get the most out of your rebuild....., essentially, my understanding is don't leave it idling and don't thrash it, but others will have more detail of that or you.

Is the idle speed set high enough? Just a thought.

Idle speed,is set at 800 rpm. I know it's a bit high but it runs very smooth. It could be the new rings, i don't know how this process is going but it makes sense to me

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Maybe a tad low, but I don't think its much to worry about until you've had a running in period. IIRC my TDi is supposed to be 55 cold and 25 warm, I think

I'll drive it for a while and see how it goes.

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On the later TDs, isnt there an oil feed back to the sump at the back of the rocker cover? You could possibly 'T' a pipe from the bottom of a cyclonic breather into that - the breather would be fed from the oil filler cap and run to the air filter and the drain in its bottom pipe. I reckon it should be easy to modify one from a tdi if you can get hold of one.

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Going back a few posts to your issue with oil pressure.

Firstly, piston rings have no bearing on the oil pressure. The oil rings "merely" prevent the oil in the cylinders from finding its way into the combustion chamber.

Oil pressure problems relate to worn/faulty oil pump or pressure relief valve. Alternatively, if your crank bearings are badly worn this can also cause low oil pressure.

18psi oil pressure on tickover with a hot engine doesn't seem unduly low.

HTH

Mark.

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On the later TDs, isnt there an oil feed back to the sump at the back of the rocker cover? You could possibly 'T' a pipe from the bottom of a cyclonic breather into that - the breather would be fed from the oil filler cap and run to the air filter and the drain in its bottom pipe. I reckon it should be easy to modify one from a tdi if you can get hold of one.

Yes it's the black hose from the rockercover to the engine were the camshaft sits (see picture) like you said above it should be possible. I asume it's ok for the engine?

IMG-0102.jpg

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Going back a few posts to your issue with oil pressure.

Firstly, piston rings have no bearing on the oil pressure. The oil rings "merely" prevent the oil in the cylinders from finding its way into the combustion chamber.

Oil pressure problems relate to worn/faulty oil pump or pressure relief valve. Alternatively, if your crank bearings are badly worn this can also cause low oil pressure.

18psi oil pressure on tickover with a hot engine doesn't seem unduly low.

HTH

Mark.

Hello Mark, considering that every thing has been replaced, except the oil pump (i forgot) it almost could'nt be anything else then the pump.

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I have the modified set up on my ex-mil 13J engine. The oil return needs to go to the sump under the level of oil - cant quite remember why-its summat to do with the negative pressure of the inlet manifold connection. Works well though.

7735917074_f0e418679c_b.jpg

Untitled2 by Laralookfabulous, on Flickr

7735916804_00ea868579_b.jpg

Untitled by Laralookfabulous, on Flickr

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I have the modified set up on my ex-mil 13J engine. The oil return needs to go to the sump under the level of oil - cant quite remember why-its summat to do with the negative pressure of the inlet manifold connection. Works well though.

7735917074_f0e418679c_b.jpg

Untitled2 by Laralookfabulous, on Flickr

7735916804_00ea868579_b.jpg

Untitled by Laralookfabulous, on Flickr

Can any one tell me/explain how this works with oil pressures?

thanx

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Hi all, after a long drive to a camp site in Gemany i parked the car in front of the office. After everything was arranged i went back to the car to start it up. I noticed that the car had difficulties to start. Although the battery is ok, i was thinking, is it possible that when the new piston rings are warm/hot that it causes so much friction (because they're expanded), on the cilinder walls that it is hard to start?

Roy

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