Bowie69 Posted September 25, 2012 Share Posted September 25, 2012 From what you are saying, starting it in gear gives no drive? If so I would check your transfer box lever is in the right place, you have a rear prop, and then pull the rear half shafts out. If it's been sat in a field it is often a silly little thing that puts it there, like a broken halfshaft, but leads to 5+ years of neglect! I've not known a clutch 'stick' open(the springs are REALLY strong), other than when the centre of the clutch plate gets ripped out, which makes a helluva racket. A broken shaft is much easier than a clutch to do you know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted September 25, 2012 Share Posted September 25, 2012 If you can stuff in into all gears with the clutch up without any grinding/noises (regardless of the lack of drive) then that suggests to me that there's no drive to the gearbox. Either the middle of the clutch has ripped out, or something is stopping the clutch from meeting the flywheel. As you say it returns reluctantly, I'd go with the latter. Keep moving it - see if it frees up. There is actually an inspection hole on the top of the bellhousing. You'll have to take the covers off - it's just in front of the gear lever bracket - you should be able to see what's going on in there through the hole. You might even be able to get some WD40 onto a stuck mechanism if you're a little dextrous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Smith Posted September 25, 2012 Share Posted September 25, 2012 Tore the centre out of the friction plate on my old 110. No drive and absolutely no noise at all, just stopped at a roundabout, went to pull away and nothing. So no it doesen't always make a noise when that happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pongo Posted September 25, 2012 Share Posted September 25, 2012 Lovely looking vehicle. Cherish her and look after her. And enjoy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
santalars Posted September 25, 2012 Author Share Posted September 25, 2012 Thanks all, I will start investigations as advised tomorrow and will keep you posted. I don't think its a broken shaft. It's not feeling like there would be drive to the gearbox. Will test anything. and have a look through the inspection hole. Something is not right at all. I wil also prepare to take it apart over the weekend. Funnily someone went through all the effort to give it new brakes and cylinders and pipes all round and new clutch cylinder. The brakes have only been on the road for few kms. It looks like the vehicle was looked after to some degree. When I have the clutch going I guess we are two weekends welding and chassis repairs away from getting her on the road. I'll keep you posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
santalars Posted September 30, 2012 Author Share Posted September 30, 2012 Good news ! Clutch came to live!. don't ask how, I don't know. it must have kind of worked free. So I have now: engine running brakes sorted vehicle driving some questions left: There is only a timing pointer on the flywheel housing but no mark on the flywheel visible ?? anyway, am I the only one who has to use a mirror the be able to see the pointer. thats in a very bad spot there. There are no marks on the crank pully either. any tips for easy setting of timing? Does the front wheel drive lever originall has a spring to hold it in the right position, or does it stay there by itself? Just asking because it really moves very easily. ok, now it's game on on welding. mainly the drivers door needs restoration and some holes in the front end of the chassis. Someone has dealt with the front before but was obviously not a master welder - not that I am, and probably not too bad for gas welding. Her some photo update: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 Good work there , the high range 4WD rod should have a long compression spring which goes between the small guide plate ( held with 2 screws) on the gearbox tunnel panel and the lock nut under the yellow knob and springs back up when you go into low range hth Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 The low gear selector shaft detent is a ball bearing and stiff compression coil spring retained under a brass hex plug on the top of the transfer box casing. The ball sits in a series of grooves machined in the selector shaft, just like the main gear box detents. You might need a new spring. The timing is normally done by markings on the pulley with a toothed pointer near the alternator. I think the flywheel and housing system was relatively unusual. The trouble is that with these vehicles being old, parts may have been replaced and the timing components mismatched or missing entirely. You can set the timing by ear - the markings would be useless now with the redundancy of two or four star leaded fuels. Loosen the distributor and rotate it a little at a time with the engine running until you find the maximum idling rpm. Just make small adjustments from there if needed. Be careful of the fan and belt while doing this - wear a short sleeved top so nothing can get caught in the rotating parts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh NZ Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 I set my timing using those exact instructions, worked a charm! Timing markings seen through an inspection hole indicate an early engine setup, that's the only difference really. Glad you got the clutch sorted finally! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
santalars Posted October 7, 2012 Author Share Posted October 7, 2012 Thanks for the continuous support. I have tuned the engine now nicely and got rid of the bad smoking. running and revving nice and clean now. yes tuning by ear works good. Now I'm on to all the nice ****ty works like rust treatment and welding. But before I had to take the front left road spring off. was badly rusted. Took it apart and after I got all the rust out I saw that there are two broken leaves. Will be a job for the blacksmith I guess, or I'm lucky and can source a replacement. @ jjm: any ideas? It took me half a day to get the spring out all rusted solid . Strangely it is the front left that if badly affected by corrosion only. everything else is "normally" rusted . Clutch is still moving extremely heavy and comes back very slow...I'm suspecting a blockage in the hydraulics. Here some update photos: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 You're getting on well with it by the look of it The heavyness and slow return of the clutch pedal may be the short flexi pipe in the line degraded inside , how much fliud was coming through each pump when you were bleeding it up? Also was the pedal easy to move when bleeding? - the cross-shaft in the pedal box sometimes gets rusted up cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 Flexible hose gets my vote too - they crumble and delaminate with age, which can create lumps and flaps which act like restrictors or one-way valves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh NZ Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 3rd vote for flexi hose! Just keep moving it though as it could free up with use. As for the road springs, I would just keep an eye out for anything going on trademe, perhaps looking for a rig that someone is wrecking. Failing that, you could talk to landroverparts.co.nz. But they have a tendency to be rather pricey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
santalars Posted October 14, 2012 Author Share Posted October 14, 2012 Ok all of you who have voted for the hose were right ! I never came across that before, but learning is a never ending process Done the chassis welding this weekend. not too bad, someone already had a go. at the end I guess the chassis will be very strong. also got the bumper stubs sorted. Now I need to fix the drivers door - patching it together somehow. In Europe I would just order a new one. not too far to the test drive.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh NZ Posted October 14, 2012 Share Posted October 14, 2012 Hooray for flexi hose! But seriously. I definitely know that someone sells a door repair piece for nearly all common rust areas... Could be paddocks (eek!) Did you manage to source some replacement springs? If you are seriously stuck I may be able to help out The first drive is looming... I remember when I finally got mine going.. Plenty of bliss (and obscenities) Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony109 Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 With the chassis, you'd have done better to have cut the previous attempt out and start fresh.. It does let it down. The welds havent properly fused.. I'd do it again. Done the chassis welding this weekend. not too bad, someone already had a go. at the end I guess the chassis will be very strong. also got the bumper stubs sorted. Now I need to fix the drivers door - patching it together somehow. In Europe I would just order a new one. not too far to the test drive.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh NZ Posted December 16, 2012 Share Posted December 16, 2012 Lars! What's going on with your series?? We need updates/pics/more reading! Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted December 16, 2012 Share Posted December 16, 2012 Timing pointer in the flywheel housing is a pre series 3 fitment, the marks on the flywheel are probably hidden by muck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted December 17, 2012 Share Posted December 17, 2012 All this clutch hose business must be catching - I'm losing clutch fluid very fast but can't see any traces of leaks except for a gummy hose, but that could be from diesel spilt from the filter and piping. New slave and braided hose going on in the next couple of days... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
santalars Posted January 4, 2013 Author Share Posted January 4, 2013 Ok, I'm, back. The birth of our little baby girl has slightly distracted me from focusing on the Odi. I have replaced some ball joints and in a burst of motivation I have welded and re glazed the drivers door. (not without being dumb and got sun burned from welding - usually I laugh about others when this happens). Was quite a bit of patching, but I'm happy with the result. Here door tops are not relevant for passing the Warrant of Fitness (WOF). I managed to source new springs and I put new brake shoes at the rear brakes. Bleeding the brakes and setting the pedal is the worst fuc.... nightmare ever. 5litres of brake fluid and presure bleeding whilst turning the adjusters was the best way at the end. (bleeding an early RR ABS is easy in comparison). Took me another day to get all brakes braking evenly (one needed a new wheel cylinder). The rear barkes were extra tricky. All necessary light issues sorted (still 24v) and all working. All cosmetic rust overpainted with a special mixture of underbody paint, thinner and chassis paint. and then....... Yay !! we have passed the WoF!!! all road legal now. This is really a very cool car to drive with the softtop off. .. Ah, yeah, sorry but we have Summer here now The clutch is terribly juddery. I would put it to rust on the plate (?). Anyone any smart ideas what to do to improve ? Apart from this a great drive and not even too loud! However I have some oil consumption. Can someone please tell me how much would be normal ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 The bores may be a little rusty or the rings sticky, or the valve stemn seals hardened. I'd recommend running it as is for a couple of hundred miles with a double dose of fuel additive to treat the rings and head, then adding an oil flush additive to clean out any carp on the lower rings before replacing the currently new oil - after standing so long, the engine will have moisture, sedimant and rust that will contaminate the oil, so new running-in is required. I'd then add an oil seal additive to the latest new oil to soften and swell and hardened or worn seals, which often works well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 Bleeding the 109" twin-leading-shoe brakes is known to be a pain. That's why I reversed the pipes when I fitted them to my 88", so the pipe from the chassis goes to the bottom cylinder first, and then from there to the top one. This way the air is slightly easier to get out. Probably won't help every time, but when I did mine they bled up first time no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh NZ Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 In regards to your clutch, mine also judders horribly when taking off in 1st or creeping in 1st slowly letting the clutch off. It's either oil on the clutch face, misaligned, or totally poked and will need replacement. I'm about to do mine in the next couple of months. If you do change it, don't forget all the necessary bearings that should be changed as well! Oh, and it's not a series if it doesn't drip oil mate! A slow drip from the sump oil seal or the crankcase ventilator tube base plate is normal, as is a little drip from the transfer case/gearbox. Rover never did seem to get the knack of oil sealing. I check the levels every couple of weeks and top it up when necessary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
santalars Posted January 6, 2013 Author Share Posted January 6, 2013 Josh, I have not meant the "normal" type of oil loss. Actually my Defender is leaking worse. However, If you want to you can get them dry. I slowly get the hang of the right clutch application. I was dumb again and lost my fuel cap!! bugger. have already ordered one. I won't forget this time to fix the chain @ Snagger: Good advise with the additives. I normally refuse to look into any additives but in this case it was the right thing. So far have added Petrol additive and that already has significantly reduced the oil consumption significantly. before we were talking about a litre per 100 miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
santalars Posted January 6, 2013 Author Share Posted January 6, 2013 Josh, I have not meant the "normal" type of oil loss. Actually my Defender is leaking worse. However, If you want to you can get them dry. I slowly get the hang of the right clutch application. I was dumb again and lost my fuel cap!! bugger. have already ordered one. I won't forget this time to fix the chain @ Snagger: Good advise with the additives. I normally refuse to look into any additives but in this case it was the right thing. So far have added Petrol additive and that already has significantly reduced the oil consumption significantly. before we were talking about a litre per 100 miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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