SmasherWebbs Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 What is the minimum mix for coolent and water in a 300 tdi. Currently have 50/50 glycol mix (thanks to work for providing) and the engine NEVER gets over heated. But with winter closing fast I'm considering upping the temp to avoid freezing. Or is it just worth getting a rad cover and leaving the glycol for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 33% is LR's recommended mix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Smith Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 Not quite sure what you mean? It won't freeze with a 50-50 mix, but changing the mix won't alter the running temp, the thermostat controls that. Too much antifreeze (glycol) can make the mix boil at a lower temp though so not really recommended. You don't need a rad cover, but I found loosing the fan in winter helped it warm up a bit quicker. Eventually lost the fan permanently and fitted a kenlow, but can't remember the last time that it came on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Smith Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 I always run 50% mix, don't recall seing 33% anywhere in any of my books. 50% will stop corrosion without any additional additives, but anything around 30% would be better if a corrosion inhibitor was used too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 A 50/50 mix of water and ethylene glycol, the usual non-alcohol type of antifreeze, will provide maximum freeze protection, down to -37Deg. C. Any more or less antifreeze will give less protection. Yes, more than 50% antifreeze has a higher freezing temperature, not a lower one. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 I think from the many many issues reported on here with regard to cooling, the Tdi's are very sensetive engines, transplanted ones like my 200 seem to suffer the worst from temperature regulation imbalances, not suprising really as it was designed to be fitted in a different vehicle. I go with the antifreeze recommendations for that perticular fluid and just adapt when the weather changes, the harsh winter last - I had the fan off and muffs on etc etc. ended up fitting a webasto in the end... but these type of issues very much depend on the specific vehicle, its age, use, engine health level etc... Mav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmasherWebbs Posted November 2, 2012 Author Share Posted November 2, 2012 Let me just clear this up think. I didn't quiet make myself clear. I have a 300 tdi In mine with a x-fan unit and new rad. Last night I sat with the engine just over idle for an hour and with the (caterpillar) glycol it hardly raised the running temp above normal. Therefore the fan never kicks in So the problem I'm having is the cab never gets above tepid inside. The old td I used to have in the 90 used to run hotter and give that extra heating for the cab. Is there anyway I can forced the engine to run a little warmer without damaging it. Or some way of getting a better heat flow to the fan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 Make sure your thermostat is not leaking. You should never idle a diesel engine..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 Let me just clear this up think. I didn't quiet make myself clear. I have a 300 tdi In mine with a x-fan unit and new rad. Last night I sat with the engine just over idle for an hour and with the (caterpillar) glycol it hardly raised the running temp above normal. Therefore the fan never kicks in So the problem I'm having is the cab never gets above tepid inside. The old td I used to have in the 90 used to run hotter and give that extra heating for the cab. Is there anyway I can forced the engine to run a little warmer without damaging it. Or some way of getting a better heat flow to the fan? TDi's in winter struggle for temp.. If I end up in traffic with the heater on and the engine at idle, my temp gauge soon drops to about 70 degree's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 The fan is only there to c deal with excess temperature, as is the rad. The thermostat regulates the temperature, and as long as it's operating correctly, your heater should be reasonably effective and should warm the vehicle sufficiently. Defender heaters are not especially powerful and struggle to heat a 110 SW or hard top in the coldest winters, but that's the heater capacity at fault, not the engine temperature. With the engine warmed up, the air from the heater should be uncomfortably hot to hold your fingers over at the vents. If it is tepid, then you have a heater fault, probably from a clogged matrix due to mud blocking the dry side or limescale deposits blocking the wet side. If it is working correctly but you need more heat, you need an auxilliary heater. Do not tamper with the engine running temperatures as you'll just damage the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmasherWebbs Posted November 2, 2012 Author Share Posted November 2, 2012 Must be in the heater matrix then. Will take it out and have a look. is there a thermostat for the heater or is it just looped in the system? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmasherWebbs Posted November 2, 2012 Author Share Posted November 2, 2012 Also thanks for the help all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 Must be in the heater matrix then. Will take it out and have a look. is there a thermostat for the heater or is it just looped in the system? thermostat is on cylinder head front end, the heater matrix is a full flow type, always has coolant passing through regardless of where you move the heater slide controls too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 The Series vehicles had flow control valves on the head for the heater pipes to adjust temperature. It was a pretty crude and unreliable system, and the 90/110 went to a more modern system of having full coolant flow unrestricted through the heater matrix and an air bypass flap in the matrix housing that directs the airflow through the matrix for hot or around the matrix for cold, modulating in between for cab temperature control. That means that the hottest setting will be hotter because the coolant flow is more (a valve will create a restriction even when fully open), the response is near instant because the matrix temperature is constant, and there are fewer reliability issues with no valve to leak or seize. The matrix pipes are rubber, and can degrade internally. The steel pipe running along the left side of the rocker cover, above the head bolts, can rust internally and reduce coolant flow too. The biggest problem, though, is a clogged matrix. Mud and detritus on the dry side can be removed by soaking the matrix in a bucket after removing it from the housing. Internal clogging from limesacle can be removed by draining the matrix and refilling it with a caustic soda solution for half an hour, followed by thorough flushing out. It's also worth checking the dash and heater housing for air leaks which let the warm air out into the engine bay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmasherWebbs Posted November 2, 2012 Author Share Posted November 2, 2012 Everything is air tight and clean externally. Next chance I get I will be stripping the lot and seeing if there is a blockage internally as this seams the only logical answer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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