Soren Frimodt Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 Having a tad too many toys right now ( I know you can't have too many, but then again they all want a piece of your wallet) I recently bought back my old 88" Series 2A. Mainly because I had bought some 35" x 13,5" Bfg Krawlers and needed something to fit them under. Now needless to say these wheels are going to be quite hard on the stock 10 spline axles. But with no money to upgrade, you haven't got many options. Luckily we all now that there is no better strength vs price rearaxle than the good old Salisbury. So decided to fit one of those, without locker for starters, again being cheap. I have always wanted to trim a bit off of a Salisbury to gain some more ground clearence, so this was the perfect opportunity. Having had the Jeep with Dana's I found that you really don't need a drain plug, you can always remove the cover instead, so had an idea. Started with an axle I got for free, and stripped the brakes off and pulled the cover and halfshafts. Then the grinding began, it cost me one and a half cutting disk to do this: Since i have read that people have problems with the cover leaking on dana 60's after trimming them, I decided to an extra 6mm bolt to keep the oil in (hopefully) Next up is moving the spring saddles to make it fit an 88" then give the cover some paint and get the thing slapped under the 88"! with a prop shortening too of course Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 Looking good, do you have a pic showing how much space there is inside the case between the case and the ring gear? to see how much more there is to go at? You could do with a front salisbury to go with the rear one now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 Looking good, do you have a pic showing how much space there is inside the case between the case and the ring gear? to see how much more there is to go at?You could do with a front salisbury to go with the rear one now If there is good clearance, would it be possible rebuild the casing further in. That would allow more trimming of the bottom. Or is that what you're thinking Dan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 I'm sure I've seen a thread where someone actually cut the bottom out of the diff casing and welded a new piece in, there was some concern over it affecting the alignment of the bearings in the diff. EDIT: http://web.archive.org/web/20040118010950/http://red-ibex.com/Salisbury_rear.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 seems a lot of work just for 1cm.. and dont forget barry, i think soren did it to a rover axle aswell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 But ground clearance is ground clearance... 1cm more could make all the difference Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 But ground clearance is ground clearance... 1cm more could make all the difference yeah but a days worth of fabricating.. surly another few MPH would see you over the obstacle. (or just larger tires) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted February 4, 2013 Author Share Posted February 4, 2013 No sorry Dan, of course I forgot to do that, but there is quite alot of room, and I have previously experimented with cutting off some housing and welding on a plate, on a scrap housing. Can be done but you'll have to fab your own cover then. Ohh you are so wrong if you think it took all day! Including the teardown of the axle with usual seized bolts it took 1,5 hours! it's not so much the 12mm I took off as it is the fact that bottom is now completely smooth, THIS makes the diffence, imagine if your anchor for the winch was a flat plate that didn't dig into the ground, how well would that work? This is the same thing just the opposite if you get what im saying Don't forget the little things! It's those that add up, and eventually make the difference, or have the racers been wasting their time all these years drilling holes and tweaking other small things? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 Been there and did that when I ran Salisburies front and rear.Every bit helps,but the sheer amount of surface area underneath even after shaving is still a hindrance on deeply rutted tracks. Some folk go as far as shaving a bit off the crownwheel, before cutting through the bottom of the housing and welding a plate as has been mentioned. Too much work for a budget job, but altering the diffs offset to get it closer to the right hand side wheel did significantly reduce the incidences of getting hung up on the diffs. Actual measured ground clearance isn't increased of course, but the crown angle from tyre to tyre is improved further. Similar comparison to vehicles with centred rear diffs vs Landys and Cruisers with offset diffs.I believe this is the sort of thing that the builders of more specialised rock crawlers are doing to save running portal axles. Well outside the scope of the original topic,and probably going a bit overboard for an old leaf springer, but to custom build a salisbury by retubing and new halfshafts, plus putting a 3'' lateral crank in the right hand chassis rail in the bumpstop region and outboard mounting the rear leaf springs, the diff could be shifted 6'' closer to the right hand wheel than standard. But you'd probably need to move the axle back a bit to give a sufficiently long propshaft to cope with the angle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted February 4, 2013 Author Share Posted February 4, 2013 Yes could be a really cool project, but as you say not very budget minded with customshafts etc. But cool nonetheless. An issue I see though, is that you'd probably need a prop with serious amount of travel, as this would be increased greatly when its at the wheel. Depending on the amount of wheel travel of course Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 Yes could be a really cool project, but as you say not very budget minded with customshafts etc. But cool nonetheless. An issue I see though, is that you'd probably need a prop with serious amount of travel, as this would be increased greatly when its at the wheel. Depending on the amount of wheel travel of course Wide angle RRC or 101FC U joint yokes would probably be adequate. And a sliding joint on both ends of the propshaft would cope with the telescopic requirements of having the diff so far over to the right. Of course, for a LWB, U joint angles wouldn't be an issue, as on 110's the pinion flange is already 3'' further over to the right compared to a 109, but because of the 6'' wider axle, the crown, or wheel to wheel ramp angle isn't improved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted February 8, 2013 Author Share Posted February 8, 2013 Why is it that when we all know that cutting brackets off of an old axle is the worst thing ever, we keep doing it? Got the person I'm not that keen on off in the end and moved them: Decided to lay a bead in the grooves that the cutting wheel had made, just to make sure there wasn't a weak spot and that it wouldn't leak oil: Being on a budget isn't to say that you're being cheap, so replaced the pinion seal as well: Now I just gotta find time to roll the car in the garage and get the axles swapped Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spongie Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 I had wondered recently about cutting swivels off a 101 axle and welding flanges on to bolt new swivels on. And possibly correcting diff nose angle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 I had wondered recently about cutting swivels off a 101 axle and welding flanges on to bolt new swivels on. And possibly correcting diff nose angle I have got a pair of 101 swivels that I did that too a long time ago.I used flanges cut off the end of a series 3 front banjo housing. The flanges distorted significantly once the welds had cooled, and to true the surface up on a lathe would have removed too much metal,so I spent an hour or so on each swivel peening the welds with a reground centre punch before the waveyness in the flanges flattened out enough to require only about a .005''cut on the lathe to true up. Soren, Due to shrinkage when the weld bead cools, I have found that the axle tubes may bend slightly. A full 360 degree bead around the axle tube usually keeps things relatively straight, and once again, peening the weld can pull the tube back into line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michele Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 it is the fact that bottom is now completely smooth, THIS makes the diffence, imagine if your anchor for the winch was a flat plate that didn't dig into the ground, how well would that work? Soren, (asking from the armchair) did you bother keeping the true diff angle in check when doing the job? If it makes sense :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted February 9, 2013 Author Share Posted February 9, 2013 Not sure I understand what you're saying Michele? With regards to what? When I moved the spring-saddles/perches inwards to make it fit under the 88" I placed them level to where they were before, so not messing with the angle. I have no problem with a flat or plain angle of a diff, works well on a series and reduces the vibrations IMO, only a problem with extreme lifts, but that ruins the car anyways so I'd rather cut a bigger hole in the fenders for the tyres After an hours work today I not only took out the back axle but also stripped it completely (saving the internals for spares) was at a birthday party most of the day, so was able to spend an hour this morning getting the in the garage and up om some stands. Then this evening i tore it down in an hour, these leafers are so nice to work on! Empty space: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 Not sure I understand what you're saying Michele? With regards to what? When I moved the spring-saddles/perches inwards to make it fit under the 88" I placed them level to where they were before, so not messing with the angle. I have no problem with a flat or plain angle of a diff, works well on a series and reduces the vibrations IMO, only a problem with extreme lifts, but that ruins the car anyways so I'd rather cut a bigger hole in the fenders for the tyres After an hours work today I not only took out the back axle but also stripped it completely (saving the internals for spares) was at a birthday party most of the day, so was able to spend an hour this morning getting the in the garage and up om some stands. Then this evening i tore it down in an hour, these leafers are so nice to work on! Empty space: WP_000109.jpg I think what Michele was getting at is that due to the lower and longer pinion of the salisbury and the 50mm shorter propshaft you will require, you may exceed your universal joint angle limits get vibrations anyway.Just like a 101FC gets vibrations with flat diff angle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted February 9, 2013 Author Share Posted February 9, 2013 Yeah okay sounds sensible. Well i'm not really concerned with that, the props not going to be neither shorter or at an steeper angle than on my 80" and I don't get vibrations from that. Running one-ton shackles points the pinion a bit upwards anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share Posted February 10, 2013 Mounted up and done! Looks proper beefy from behind with the krawlers and the Sals Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share Posted February 10, 2013 Oh yeah forgot, whats the number one motivator when messing with British engineering? Yep that's right, a classic British dish: Must slowly be turning into an Anglophile Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 You're more than welcome over here Soren... Good taste in Land Rovers and food Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michele Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 Not sure I understand what you're saying Michele? With regards to what? When I moved the spring-saddles............ Hey Soren, sorry, hard to explain for me in Italian as well! I meant shaving the bottom in regards to its angle vs. the ground...but my Salisbury is 225 Kms far from me right now, so it may be just a brain fart of mine, I might do a sketch to explain better :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share Posted February 10, 2013 Haha thank you Ross, it's actually worse than you might think (me being an Anglophile) this is my daily driver: Michele: Okay now I get you, had since been wondering if that was what you meant Well as it sits level to the ground, trimming it on a level plane would do what you was referring to. But on a coiler for instance it would of course have to be at an angle to the pinion in order to achieve that. But then again, who runs coils? They're for streetcars not offroaders! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michele Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 Glad we understand each other in the end, LOL! I was struggling to explain it myself as well. It's something I've been mulling over since I picked my Sals up. Time (and money!!) will tell if I'll ever go SOA and all serious business with the 109", but I did consider shaving the diff too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 Looks properly beefy Soren, like the look a lot, hope it performs well too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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