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Where to put water temp sensor on 4.6 MS Engine..


Fatboy

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Hi all,

After a hectic few weeks in everything but the wagon, I've managed to get back into the swing of it and am trying to remember where I was!!

One of my problems is trying to figure out how to get water temp on a gauge because the original sender is now hooked into the Megasquirt...

Any ideas?

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Inlet manifold going to cylinder #1 is the sensor for the ECU.

The one on the thermostat housing, I think this is what you mean... is actually the AC fan switch. Not entirely sure what you mean by 'top hose housing' though.

The sensor is the RH #2 on this pic:

http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1354828547/

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Bowie,

Thanks, I'll swap the MS plug to the one on #1.

I called the other one the top hose housing coz I figured someone would point out the thermostat is in the hose... I suspect I'll have to put an aftermarket gauge on with the sensor in place of the AC fan switch because there are no other senders in the water system that I can find.

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Bloody 'ell Nige. You feelin alright :)

I hope its a hotwire manifold......you told me it was! lol. It came with hotwire injection stuff bolted to it so hope so. You've got me doubting now. How do i tell.

Yea its stainless allen bolts holding the inlet manifold on. Is this a bad idea?

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YES VERY BAD

Stainless has a lower Structural strength than Steel bolts that are in there !

Change them for proper LR Bolts and washers or the Equivalent, they also are NOT all the same lengths

Dome Head Allen bolts in stainless is a No No

Yes, its hotwire

No I am still unsure what that hole is, will try and look tomm !!

Gurgle ....Nightnurse and scotch coming up - or is that down :)

Nige

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Those bolts are a poor idea for several reasons; stainless is brittle, stainless will encourage galvanic corrosion, and the domed allen-head only gives you one shot at undoing it, god help you if it rounds off. I never understand fitting stainless bolts to land rovers, it just means the bolts will stay shiny while the big bits dissolve around them even faster!

Back on temp sensors;

Flapper has: ECU Coolant temp sensor (plastic top, 2-pins), theromtime switch (brass, 2-pins) and gauge sender (1-pin)

Hotwire has: ECU Coolant temp sensor (plastic top, 2-pins), gauge sender (1-pin)

Later ones will have the ECU coolant sensor, may not have a separate gauge one (RAVE will tell you).

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RAVE Manual says:

Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor - (up to 99MY)
The sensor is located at the top front of the engine, to the right of the alternator and in front of the plenum chamber.
The sensor comprises a temperature dependant resistive metal strip. The resistance of the strip varies considerably with coolant temperature, i.e. from 28K ohms at - 30°C to 90 ohms at 130°C. At 85°C the resistance is 300 ohms.


And:

Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor - (from 99MY)
The ECT sensor is located at the top front of the engine, adjacent to the coolant outlet pipe. The sensor screws into a thread in the inlet manifold and incorporates a sealing ring between the faces of the sensor and manifold.
The ECT sensor multiplug has four wires; two are the signal and ground connections used by the ECM, the other two are used by the body control module (BeCM) for control of the temperature warning lamp operation on the instrument pack.
The sensor contains two thermistors with negative temperature co-efficients; as temperature increases, the thermistor’s resistance decreases. The ECM receives a corresponding analogue input voltage between 0 and 5V.
NOTE: The temperature / resistance characteristics of the two thermistors differ, and so it is important to maintain the correct pin-outs. The ECM uses the information received from the ECT sensor to make adjustments to the engine operating conditions. The ECM ensures a richer air:fuel mixture is available at lower block temperatures for good quality starts and smooth running. The mixture is then made leaner as the engine temperature rises to maintain low emissions and good performance.
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