samc88 Posted August 15, 2013 Author Share Posted August 15, 2013 Hello, I am following this thread with interest as I am now starting the same thing. Rebuilding my 88" pickup from the ground up replacing everything I can.I noticed in one of your comments you said about "The Good Book" sitting on the wing. Is that one of those restore guides? There are so many of them around I was just looking for a good one to help with my build. Thanks and good luck with the A levels. Hi,, The book is the official land rover series 3 workshop manual. I have it as a book but you can download for free here http://www.landroverweb.com/landrover/pdf-land-rover-manuals/ Its far more thorough than the equivalent Haines manual. I do also have the "Land Rover Series I, II and III restoration manual" by Lindsay Porter which is quite good as manuals go as it does have some handy pictures and information in there. Got my results today and am happy with them, distinction* in BTEC mechanical engineering, B in maths and a C in physics so I'm well pleased Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWB Posted August 15, 2013 Share Posted August 15, 2013 Hi SamC, Congrats on your results, have a good day. Norman. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samc88 Posted August 23, 2013 Author Share Posted August 23, 2013 Right then a bit of a progress report, The seatbox was put in position ready to be bolted on but before that can be done, the sill needs to be added. The seatbox can probably be bolted up using the top holes but the 2 holes on either side are for bolts which are also for the sill so its easier to just do it all in one go I think. http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P8181576_zps0f763428.jpg.html'> The sill was put on. There are 2 bolts on the bulkhead head which have a plate welded to each bolt head which theoretically should make them captive but you may need to hold them so they dont turn. (this is made trickier by the fact they aren't bolt heads you can get a spanner on as they are flat). Put the inner most bolt in first and loosely put a nut on the end so it wont fall off. This is because the sill has a slot on one side so you can slot it over this bolt and then tighten the nut so it wont fall off. Then its a bit easier to do the next one. The rear most bolts weren't being put in until the seatbox is getting bolted up so to help support the sill, a long thin bolt was pushed through the holes to keep it up. Before bolting them on, the sills got a coat of red oxide and then underseal. http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P8211581_zps654b4432.jpg.html'> The pulley on the alternator was about 3/16"th too far forward out of alignment even at the position of the alternator where it was as far back as possible. So, solution was to take the pulley off and take it to stuart (who also welded the tub) who took off 3/16ths from the raised boss. Result is the pulleys are now in alignment properly You may notice the alternator is a different colour, thats because we found one which sounded like it had better bearings and its smoother than the old one so that was fitted http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P8181577_zps93a664cf.jpg.html'> Starter motor was wired up http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P8181578_zpsc4cdd19a.jpg.html'> As were the glow plugs http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P8181580_zps22bcbfb9.jpg.html'> I put some diesel in the tank and me and my dad bled the fuel system up to the pump. We also had a go cranking the engine over using jump leads to try and bleed the injector pipes. This succeeded in turning the engine over (The starter motor works well ) but ended up melting the metal end of the jump lead. Then I bolted the handbrake in which still needs connecting. Because the seat box was in position, i went underneath and slid it up from there http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P8211582_zpsffb34e12.jpg.html'> yesterday we were sorting wires out in the engine bay and put the screenwash mechanism back in. This works a treat, it has some bigger bore hose than it used to (6mm pipe and fittings) and the jets are pretty powerful things, going right over the windscreen and going halfway down the garage when we tested it Also the wiper potor and wiper spindles have been bolted on and we've started putting foam soundproofing on the bulkhead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 Just come across this thread and have to say what an awesome job you're doing there, both with the rebuild and with documenting it. Top marks! A few of the pics take me back to the early days of my 109, although nothing on it was in as good condition as yours Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samc88 Posted August 25, 2013 Author Share Posted August 25, 2013 Just come across this thread and have to say what an awesome job you're doing there, both with the rebuild and with documenting it. Top marks!A few of the pics take me back to the early days of my 109, although nothing on it was in as good condition as yours Thanks We were very lucky condition wise, the chassis was new 10 years ago when it was done by the owner previous to my granddad so it didn't have 30 odd years worth of patches on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samc88 Posted August 25, 2013 Author Share Posted August 25, 2013 Right then, changing the handbrake gaiter, I decided to this before connecting up the handbrake as it meant I could move the handbrake around a little This retaining plate has to be removed first It is held in with 6 self tappers which require a flat bladed screwdriver to undo The old gaiter can slide off Rub vaseline on the new gaiter which helps prevent it cracking I put the plate on first just because i thought it would help with lining up the holes It can then be slid down the handbrake into position, might be worth sitting it in some hot water to make it more pliable as I got mine on and found it had split, was not pleased The new fuel sender wires were then ran to the tank The seatbox was then bolted to the tub and the floor panels slid in temporarily to check they cleared all the wiring and fuel pipes. The battery tray and filter was bolted to the front The throttle linkage was set at this stage. For setting the accelarator pedal position, my dad held the throttle linkage at full throttle and I bolted the pedal to the shaft tight whilst it was hitting the stop. that way when the throttle is released it should come up to its natural idle position Today I put the seat on temporarily to see how it looks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samc88 Posted September 12, 2013 Author Share Posted September 12, 2013 Time for an update methinks, Replaced the old tatty steel and rubber pipe for the heater matrix with some nice copper pipe which was of course polished when it went on Looks smart I think http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P8271617_zps08de5bdf.jpg.html'> http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P8271616_zpsbc0c7691.jpg.html'> Then we put the dash in, this is held by self tappers into the bulkhead (the plastic square trim pieces held in the steelwork with a hole for the screw to pass into) http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P8311618_zps710de945.jpg.html'> http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P9081630_zpsd6929ad0.jpg.html'> Made some extra fly screens from some aluminium mesh we had which I think tidies up the dashboard a lot. These were cut to size and rivetted on http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P9081631_zps19c2e7c5.jpg.html'> Making the switch panel, cardboard template: http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P9081633_zps52f7b439.jpg.html'> http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P9081635_zps3fff2242.jpg.html'> Shape cut out of aluminium http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P9091636_zpsbb7afb50.jpg.html'> Folded and roughly in place http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P9091637_zpsa432fac4.jpg.html'> The holes for the switches have been drilled and its been painted black. Switches are lucas ones to match the dashboard. (I'll get another photo again) A shot off our wiring with new fuse boxes and relays (will make a cover for all this dont worry http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P9081632_zps6c160685.jpg.html'> Dashboard was wired up, tested and fitted. Only problem is cold start light is extremely dim (anyone know why this could be? ) http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P9121638_zpsdfc75e6a.jpg.html'> And of course to prove our electrics work, the customary "light shot" http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P9121639_zps30e7c8ce.jpg.html'> Any questions about anything we're doing, just ask Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samc88 Posted September 15, 2013 Author Share Posted September 15, 2013 Heres the pic of the finished switch panel http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P9131660_zpscd814177.jpg.html'> http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P9131663_zpsd7afd871.jpg.html'> The yellow light is the low fuel light, the top right switch is interior lights and in the bottom row are rear worklight, front worklight and front spots (These need a light on them to show when they're on) Started the engine up yesterday, the ignition barrel/ switch has a temperamental fault in it but when we wired in the ignition barrel off a disco temporarily the engine went first time Bled the system and fired it up for a few seconds to check everything was right Now the rad and cooling system can be plumbed in properly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seriebil.dk Posted September 17, 2013 Share Posted September 17, 2013 that is a very nice rebuild, top job, and keep it coming. did you keep the measures for that center panel ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted September 17, 2013 Share Posted September 17, 2013 Good to see CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) in action, much under-rated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 Cracking job you are doing, really enjoyed the engine rebuild bit. Keep up the good work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samc88 Posted September 21, 2013 Author Share Posted September 21, 2013 Thanks for the comments guys @seriebil.dk : I'm not sure about measurements we sort of made it up as we went along and we had to fettle it after folding to make it sit right but I shall try and get some measurements for you if I can @fridgefreezer: Plenty more CAD to come with that centre panel we need to make to cover the wiring Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samc88 Posted September 21, 2013 Author Share Posted September 21, 2013 Right then, rubbed the 2 pack paint on the front panel down ready for painting, flipped it over and gave it a coat of blue (i'll do the front when its bolted to the chassis as its easier to put the radiator on with it flat on its front and painting it later means you wont scratch the paint ) The radiator was bolted to the panel using M6 bolts and nylock nuts and the plastic fan shrowd was then screwed to the radiator. Once all this was assembled I put it in position on the chassis and connected up the bottom hose. (Before putting this on, I put the hose on the engine first, doing this means you only have to try and fit one end with the limited space available when the radiator is on) I put the offside wing on temporarily so as to bring the panel upright when bolting it on (nothing to do with temptation making me want to see how it will look, honest If you remember way back before we started the bumper was painted in a thick coat of black hammerite. I want this to sort of look original ish so want it back to silver. I started attacking the thick paint with a scraper but that was no good so I put a flap wheel on the grinder and used that, strips the paint brilliantly Temptation got hold of me and I slid it in place to see how it looks Starting to look like a Land Rover again now Tommorrows jobs hopefully are paint the front panel blue, give the bumper a couple of coats of red oxide and maybe spray it silver (so it matches the other cappings) and bleed the clutch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted September 22, 2013 Share Posted September 22, 2013 nice job. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NL_Lexxie Posted September 24, 2013 Share Posted September 24, 2013 Verry nice rebuild, I really like the way you are sharing this with us. Did you modify the wiring loom or did you create your own? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samc88 Posted September 30, 2013 Author Share Posted September 30, 2013 Update time! Right then, yesterday we went to bleed the clutch but nothing was happening when the pedal was pumped down (i.e. the fluid level wasnt moving anywhere) but there was a sort of popping noise as you pushed the pedal past a certain point about halfway down. So we decided to investigate. Took the cylinder off (making note of how far the nut is on the pushrod so it goes back in the same place). Order of dismantling goes like this: Remove the dust cover, Remove the circlip, Withdraw the pushrod, Hit the end of the cylinder on a wooden surface until the piston comes down and out of the bore upon inspection, it was found the piston had got stuck in the far end of the cylinder due to rust/ corrosion so that when the clutch pedal was pushed down all we were doing was moving the push rod, not the piston (making the cylinder pretty useless) Solution was to use fine emery on the inside of the cylinder and around the bit the pushrod pushes against on the piston. (below is a picture that shows the corrosion) When the bits were cleaned it was reassembled in the opposite order to disassembly. The cylinder was fitted back to the tower thing and tested and it moved the fluid just fine so problem solved and it saved a few quid on a new clutch master cylinder when doing this cylinder, its worth noting that the nuts that hold it on are on bolts and not studs, so you will have to use a cranked 13mm spanner to access the bottom bolt (which is the longer one) and you can use a socket on the top one. We've had to give up on the defender servo as its just too big. With a bit of experimentation, we found a discovery servo to be an almost perfect fit on the brake tower and with it being a smaller diameter clears the bonnet with the exeption of the master cylinder feed bottle. Have got a series servo and master cylinder though which would be the better option I think if it will fit on the defender pedal tower. The observant among you may realise the brake pedal is a bit ddifferent to the others, so today my dad straightened it and welded on the old series pedal so it looks pretty much the same Anyway, tonight a lot of the front end bits and pieces were at the front of the garage so I just decided to loosley fit everything and see how everything lines up, doesnt look too bad IMHO And I put the lights in position temporarily to see how they look in the wing too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samc88 Posted September 30, 2013 Author Share Posted September 30, 2013 Verry nice rebuild, I really like the way you are sharing this with us. Did you modify the wiring loom or did you create your own? Cheers Thanks Well its sort of a bit of both, we kept the old wires from the ignition, but everything else is new loom as before it was just all over the place. When re-wiring it we started from scratch with the wires that run through the chassis first and then went from there We've added/ adding quite a bit of extra electrical equipment so modifying the original loom does have a bit of a risk of unreliability about it with connections and things, hope that helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samc88 Posted October 6, 2013 Author Share Posted October 6, 2013 Right then another update after sorting through our servo problems. a) the defender servo was way too big, there was no way at all it would clear the bonnet b) We found a disco servo fits the tower but the reservoir on the cylinder is still too tall for the bonnet and as the master cylinder and servo had been outside for the best part of a year in the open we decided to get a series servo and master cylinder. c) a series servo will bolt straight to the pedal tower, however the pedal itself needs modification and you still need to make a separate feed from the reservoir. This post will just be basically how we got a series servo and master cylinder assembly to fit onto a defender brake pedal tower 1) When the servo is fitted to the tower as is, the pedal sits just a bit too far back so you wont get the full pedal travel. Thats not the main problem however, you may notice that both the servo and the pedal have a plate with a hole in and one of them needs to be a fork to fit the servo properly. 2) The tower was disassembled to get the pedal out. (the sharp eyed amongst you may notice that its the original series pedal welded on to the defender one, this is just to make it look better so it matches the other pedals ) 3) A Plate with a hole in is welded either side of the pedal to make a fork 4) this photo shows how the servo end fits inside the fork. A pin with a hole in the end for a split pin goes through the holes in the fork and servo fitting and a photo showing the series pedal on the end once painted black 5) The tower can be reassembled with the pedal and the servo was then bolted to it 6) Master cylinder was bolted on and we found that although its a series servo, as its on a defender brake tower the wing still needs a bit of trimming for it to fit. This was carefully done with the grinder 7) As mentioned previously, the reservoir bottle still sits too high for the bonnet to clear. If you open the top of the reservoir on the new cylinder you will see a threaded pipe fitting which will need a 17mm spanner to remove. We got a pipe fitting with a thread one end and on the other end a fitting for a rubber hose to fit on to go in the threaded hole where the reservoir once sat. As the original reservoir bottle had a rubber hose fitting on it, this was cleaned and brough back into service by bolting it to the bracket by the clutch cylinder 8) the defender pedal tower does have a slight angled bit at the top which we thought was fine but when we tested the bonnet fit, we found it to be catching the bonnet, making it unable to sit properly. a dust sheet was put over the engine bay and this was cut off with the grinder The wing was then bolted on and tonight we got the passenger wing on too Its starting to look like a proper land rover again now Cheers, Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted October 6, 2013 Share Posted October 6, 2013 Excellent ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samc88 Posted October 7, 2013 Author Share Posted October 7, 2013 Not much to report except after work I fitted the bonnet and I gave the grill a spray coat of silver from a rattle can Horn, electric fan and the screen wash pump have all also been wired in by my Dad and are working from the dash switch Will take photos of the bonnet fixings tomorrow after work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samc88 Posted October 11, 2013 Author Share Posted October 11, 2013 Right then, yesterday we got the wings in grey primer Another shot of the grill, will paint the background for the letters black at somepoint The electric fan is in now too and wired up. It is held in place by 4 bolts with a rubber bit between the front panel and fan bracket Wiring for the front lights has been run through conduit to keep it neat and clipped to the wing The horn has also been wired in also the screenwash pump and bottle have been reinstalled on the wing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samc88 Posted October 15, 2013 Author Share Posted October 15, 2013 Well good news all, after over a week trying to find the cause of a fault in the ignition system we appear to have sorted it, it was a dodgy contact on the starter motor where the nut had come a bit loose on a thread which isnt in great condition.Started it up today and gave it a good run, tappets need adjusting now I think, going to do that tomorrow :Also got the transmission tunnel and floor plates in yesterday, painted up the vent flaps and apron and started rubbing down the wings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted October 15, 2013 Share Posted October 15, 2013 Great stuff ! Somehow I missed the previous update - looking good with the wings on, and the wiring looks very neat and tidy ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samc88 Posted October 15, 2013 Author Share Posted October 15, 2013 Great stuff ! Somehow I missed the previous update - looking good with the wings on, and the wiring looks very neat and tidy Thanks Going to paint them hopefully Thursday (tomorow evening will be adjusting and checking tappets and things) my Dad did a great job of straightening them out I'm pleased with how we did the wiring, much improved from how it was with wiring dragging across the whole engine bay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samc88 Posted October 18, 2013 Author Share Posted October 18, 2013 Well then, tonight Dad and I got the bonnet, wings and apron painted (again with a brush and roller). For this we just brushed the paint on and then went over it with a good quality foam roller from wilkos to get rid of the brush marks. Gave a pretty decent finish I think List of jobs to do now (probably over the weekend) are: fit front end lights, fit grill, fit vent flaps, fit bonnet, turn roof over and paint the top Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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