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100Amp Altenator Fitment


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Morning,

Will a 300tdi Defender 100amp Alternator (AMR4247) fit a 200tdi Defender?

If I take the serpentine belt pulley off and fit the V belt pulley off my old one?

Can this be done and is it easy enough?

Cheers, Spencer

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yeah i have done that. Also uprate the wiring to cope!

i shredded a belt the other day but thats the only one mine has chewed through in a couple of years. Best to make a better tensioner than the standard one as well.

Jad

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You might suffer some belt slip at high loads (85A to 100 A)

Some people say that a V belt will be OK but all factory designs of V8's and diesels I think moved to multi V / serp belts when 100A or above alternators were fitted.

This is because it is generally thought that a V belt won't be able to tranmit the power required to produce above 85A

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Im not sure why people say this. The alternator I fitted was for a 300tdi (that my dad ordered as a standard one but a 100amp one turned up and i pikied it :) ) and I have not had to modify it in any way to tension it. All of the mounting points were the same...

Unless thinking about it this is a defender/disco 200tdi engine thing?

Jad

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haven't had any problems with the Vee belt on mine, been using it for over 10 years, I only fit Dayco belts to alt & PAS.

No issues on mine either now I'm also on a dayco belt...still, didn't stop me putting a 13mm belt on the second alternator mind!

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  • 4 weeks later...
Morning,

Will a 300tdi Defender 100amp Alternator (AMR4247) fit a 200tdi Defender?

If I take the serpentine belt pulley off and fit the V belt pulley off my old one?

Can this be done and is it easy enough?

Cheers, Spencer

The part number you've suggested won't fit. The one I got through the post won't fit and I paid £80 to find that one out :angry2:; the distance between the 'ears' are smaller, by 10mm.

The one that does fit, with a small amount of jiggling, is the AMR4248G and costs £135, from Paddocks.

I took the serpentine pulley off and fitted the original V pulley back on. I swapped the original tensioner strap/bolt/spacer combo from it's original place with the far right water pump bolt. Both bolts torqued to the 25Nm as per Workshop manual. The tensioner strap needed a bit of bending to clear the alternator housing.

So far, easy going. Just waiting for AutoSparks to send my new engine harness, then I can up-rate the cable to the Alternator to cope with the extra juice, keeping the smoke inside the cable :hysterical:.

For info. my car is a Defender 90 LHD with the original 200 Tdi unit. Not the Disco engine.

The Alternator is fitted as it came with no other modifications other than a few tweaks here and there, not to the Alternator but to other bits around the engine bay. The AMR4248G (Denso) I received has a 4 bolt casing, which means I had to fit it with the adjusting ears on the outside instead of the normal position of being on the inside (next to the engine block). The normal M8 bolt was replaced with a longer one with a spacer and nut, the original adjustment ear is threaded to M8, the new one has a bigger hole (say M10 size).

The Power-steering box pipes were tweaked a bit to give more clearance to allow for adjusting the Alternator. Unfortunately the AMR4248G Alternator diameter is slightly bigger than the original A127 one.

Pictures below;

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With the tensioning ear on the wrong side will you not foul the other intercooler hose?

It's close, but, no. I've got about 5mm of clearance.

The rubber/silicone hoses can be trimmed a bit to give a bit more clearance, if needs be the silver intercooler hose can be given another flat spot in the right place :D , it's got two of them already. The flat spot you can see was closer to the Filter Housing than the Alternator looks now.

When I get the new engine loom, I'll be able to start the car up and check for fouling/knocking in that area, for now it looks good.

As soon as I can confirm all is good with this modification, I'll update this topic for all to know.

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  • 3 months later...

I can confirm that this mod works.

Aside from what I've already mentioned, nothing else has been moved/tweaked/bent or adjusted to get this mod to fit.

The previously posted pictures give you an idea in what to do. In actual fact a pretty simple mod.

The only other thing I've done against the norm, is re-route the main power/charge cable from the Alternator behind the exhaust to the Starter motor. It's encased in two layers of heat protection sleeving for good measure and also held in place by 'p-clips' behind the turbo oil return line.

I've been driving it around now for a few hundred miles, apart from re-tensioning the belt to the alternator, nothing has gone wrong. No knocks and no signs of rubbing anywhere.

Regards

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